Sub 600 gram front wheel build
06-16-13, 06:08 AM
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Sub 600 gram front wheel build
Ok, I'm starting to build a light weight bike from scratch. At first, I wasn't too weight weenish about parts, but when I realized I could get the weight down to below 13 pounds for an aluminum frame, I knew I had a new mission. Right now calculations are 12.86 pounds(assuming manufacturers are true to their claimed weights(Yeah right!)) without cables. I'll save a little weight after I cut down chain and steerer down.
Right now the front wheel I was going to use weighs 670 grams. I'm thinking about using the Alchemy Elf front hub, Kinlin XR-19W rim, and possibly Sapim Aero Bladed CX-Super spokes(not going to be racing with these so a little flex isn't a problem). I'm 150 pounds and wondering what spoke count to go with on front wheel. Also suggestions on spoke count on rear wheel with Sapim CS-Rays and Alchemy Orc-UL rear hub with Kinlin XR-19W rim. Any other suggestions?
Right now the front wheel I was going to use weighs 670 grams. I'm thinking about using the Alchemy Elf front hub, Kinlin XR-19W rim, and possibly Sapim Aero Bladed CX-Super spokes(not going to be racing with these so a little flex isn't a problem). I'm 150 pounds and wondering what spoke count to go with on front wheel. Also suggestions on spoke count on rear wheel with Sapim CS-Rays and Alchemy Orc-UL rear hub with Kinlin XR-19W rim. Any other suggestions?
06-16-13, 06:21 AM
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20/24 or 24 28 for a little more beef. i built up king r45 velocity a23 and cx rays for a coworker in 20 24. no complaints he is about the same weight
06-16-13, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by landdnl
(not going to be racing with these so a little flex isn't a problem)
I cracked a rim at the spoke hole on a 28 spoke wheel this week. I decided to replace it with a (theoretically) stronger 28 spoke wheel, but I passed on a 24 spoke wheel. I'm a big guy, so I'm a little nervous about very light stuff.
Also, I never use extra light spokes, I stick with double butted (like a Sapim Race) and sometimes straight gauge. My wheelbuilding skills and patience aren't up to dealing with real narrow spokes. YMMV.
em
06-16-13, 08:25 AM
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I'm a weight weenie too- the problem is with my wallet. So... no Alchemy hubs for me.
I've built several lightweight wheelsets using Kinlin rims. I'm using XR-200s because I'm not a fan of eyeleted rims (though I have one buddy using the "19w" with no problem). And, the 200 saves another 25 grams or so.
I'm doing 20 spoke fronts for up to 150# riders (even though they recommend 24 for over 130#) but it's more about the riding style that makes wheels last.
Being the budget guy I am I'm using hubs from Bike Hub Store. Two reasons- they are inexpensive, and they have a 16:8 drilled rear hub. They are holding up well under a variety of conditions, and most are ridden hard (raced). On the XR200 rim, front- 550g and rear- 700g (CX-Rays and alloy nips.) I like the rear hub drilling, but it requires a center drilled rim like the Kinlin. BTW-Kinlins are some of the most consistently round rims I've seen, and in my price range too.
In a nutshell- I think you can do well with 20 hole front as long as you don't beat the crap out of it. Beat the crap out of it and it won't matter how many spokes you have.
One more thing- all wheels flex. If you can't make 'em flex you ain't going fast enough!
I've built several lightweight wheelsets using Kinlin rims. I'm using XR-200s because I'm not a fan of eyeleted rims (though I have one buddy using the "19w" with no problem). And, the 200 saves another 25 grams or so.
I'm doing 20 spoke fronts for up to 150# riders (even though they recommend 24 for over 130#) but it's more about the riding style that makes wheels last.
Being the budget guy I am I'm using hubs from Bike Hub Store. Two reasons- they are inexpensive, and they have a 16:8 drilled rear hub. They are holding up well under a variety of conditions, and most are ridden hard (raced). On the XR200 rim, front- 550g and rear- 700g (CX-Rays and alloy nips.) I like the rear hub drilling, but it requires a center drilled rim like the Kinlin. BTW-Kinlins are some of the most consistently round rims I've seen, and in my price range too.
In a nutshell- I think you can do well with 20 hole front as long as you don't beat the crap out of it. Beat the crap out of it and it won't matter how many spokes you have.
One more thing- all wheels flex. If you can't make 'em flex you ain't going fast enough!
06-16-13, 08:47 AM
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One more thing-
Lightweight bikes are so fun. You'll love yours, and 13# is very doable with an aluminum frame, as long as the frame weight isn't much over 1500g. You don't need to go "plastic" to get 'em light. The one I'm riding now is a shade over 15# (steel), and that's a pound lighter than a buddies Super Six. Most of what I do though is 18-19# as most folks just can't do lightweight.
I build my own frames (steel) and just spec'ed a bike that will come in at 12.77#. That's based on observed weights, and a steel fork. I'm starting the frame now. The problem is the bucks. It's damn near 4 grand ready to ride, so this will be a bit getting up and running. Good luck with yours.
Lightweight bikes are so fun. You'll love yours, and 13# is very doable with an aluminum frame, as long as the frame weight isn't much over 1500g. You don't need to go "plastic" to get 'em light. The one I'm riding now is a shade over 15# (steel), and that's a pound lighter than a buddies Super Six. Most of what I do though is 18-19# as most folks just can't do lightweight.
I build my own frames (steel) and just spec'ed a bike that will come in at 12.77#. That's based on observed weights, and a steel fork. I'm starting the frame now. The problem is the bucks. It's damn near 4 grand ready to ride, so this will be a bit getting up and running. Good luck with yours.
06-16-13, 09:24 AM
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I'm rocking 16/20h on both my bikes, I'm 65kg and they're plenty strong enough; I don't baby my wheels.
One set is Shimano RS20 and the other is a WH-R540 front and A-Class ALX600 rear.
They're both about as nice a pair as each other; the mismatched one is cooler for the paired spokes, but the RS20 uses an OCR.
NFI what any of the rims weigh, though... what's the heft on a Kinlin XR-19W?
Oh yeah - if you want an optimised wheelset, there's still room for improvement if the front and rear rims are identical (ignoring spoke count).
One set is Shimano RS20 and the other is a WH-R540 front and A-Class ALX600 rear.
They're both about as nice a pair as each other; the mismatched one is cooler for the paired spokes, but the RS20 uses an OCR.
NFI what any of the rims weigh, though... what's the heft on a Kinlin XR-19W?
Oh yeah - if you want an optimised wheelset, there's still room for improvement if the front and rear rims are identical (ignoring spoke count).
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06-16-13, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Kimmo
I'm rocking 16/20h on both my bikes, I'm 65kg and they're plenty strong enough; I don't baby my wheels.
One set is Shimano RS20 and the other is a WH-R540 front and A-Class ALX600 rear.
They're both about as nice a pair as each other; the mismatched one is cooler for the paired spokes, but the RS20 uses an OCR.
NFI what any of the rims weigh, though... what's the heft on a Kinlin XR-19W?
Oh yeah - if you want an optimised wheelset, there's still room for improvement if the front and rear rims are identical (ignoring spoke count).
One set is Shimano RS20 and the other is a WH-R540 front and A-Class ALX600 rear.
They're both about as nice a pair as each other; the mismatched one is cooler for the paired spokes, but the RS20 uses an OCR.
NFI what any of the rims weigh, though... what's the heft on a Kinlin XR-19W?
Oh yeah - if you want an optimised wheelset, there's still room for improvement if the front and rear rims are identical (ignoring spoke count).
I'm gonna build the front first, and then the rear, both with the same rims.
Last edited by landdnl; 06-16-13 at 11:16 AM.
06-16-13, 10:18 AM
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Rims for sew up tires are lighter because the air pressure at 100 psi + pushing outward,
does not have to be resisted by the rim edges being pried apart by the tire bead..
does not have to be resisted by the rim edges being pried apart by the tire bead..
06-17-13, 02:24 AM
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Originally Posted by landdnl
The weight of the XR-19W weigh 410 grams.
I'm gonna build the front first, and then the rear, both with the same rims.
I'm gonna build the front first, and then the rear, both with the same rims.
Eyelets aren't as useful when you're not cranking up the DS in order to get decent tension on the NDS...
__________________
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
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