What crank puller to use if standard pulling threads are stripped?
 

I am pretty sure you can pull cranks also off with such "grab behind" or "grab around" pullers? (other than the "loosening the crank bolt and riding" method)
Any special advice?
Thanks

Nice heavy duty two prong fork looking tool that gets positioned behind the spider / arm - and then whacked with a hammer.

=8-)

You can use a gear puller or drill chuck remover wedges. Pouring boiling water over the crank may help to loosen it by expanding the aluminium away from the spindle as well.

Methods suggested above both wedge between the outer bottom bracket shell and the crank. Are there pullers who grab behind and push against the axle (as the usual standard crank pullers) instead?

I've used a propane torch and hack sawing on cranks I have given up on. Andy.

Using wedges or pickle forks is OK for cup and cone (angular contact) bearings, but my concern with using these methods on cartridge bottom brackets is that it places a thrust load on radial type bearings.

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-69104.html

You may have to find a model whose "claws" will fit between the arm & BB.

Two arm pullers might work on the left side crank. Unfortunately, neither 2 or 3 arm pullers fit rearly well through the opening of the right drive side crank (the Harbour Freight one above hardly fits anwhere (including other then bike issues) since thew claws are too thick).

Sometimes a choice needs to be made: damage the crank arm and preserve the bottom bracket, or damage the bottom bracket and preserve the crank arm.

i have used a pickle fork and it works well, the one sized for tie rods is the right size. i do have a set of chuck wedges but have not used them yet, they do look like they would work just fine.

And the crank arm threads have already been ruined.

I am surprised nobody suggests the 23mm rethreadening method (for the 22x1mm standard thread with a 23x1mm bottom tap or just wrenching in a Ta puller) or a 23.35mm stronglight puller into ruined TA 23mm dustcap threads?

I am surprised nobody suggests the correct tool use suggestion method (for the purpose of preventing these kinds of scenarios in the future) or just bringing crank and bottom-bracket work into an LBS to let the professionals do the work.

=8-)

That's because I have tired of suggesting it when nobody thinks it's a good idea. I have the Stein extractor system and it works well.
BTW, it re-taps to 24 x 1.5, not 23mm

I think it is a great idea, but retapping might be easier without the kit either from 22 to 23, or from 23 to 23.35 and then the "Stein extractor system inserts" as last resort?

When you tap directly from a stripped out 22mm to 24mm, you get a good thread. If you tap it first to 23x1, and strip that out, the chances of the Stein system working are reduced. Best to use it as a first resort.