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Shimano 105 shifters

Old 07-02-13, 07:17 PM
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Danielle
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Shimano 105 shifters

Is there a schematic how to change the shift cables on the newer shifters with the internal hidden cables? Please don't tell me you have to take the tape off every time you need to change a cable.
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Old 07-02-13, 07:47 PM
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Take it you mean the 5700, the only time you need to unwrap the tape for this, is if you want to change the outer, the inner is changed by lifting the hood.

The instructions cover this https://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830702880.pdf
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Old 07-02-13, 07:55 PM
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Thanks a lot. I'm glad I don't have to take the tape off. I just did that not too long ago. So the cable end will find the outer opening once you snake it through the bottom of the shifter? Thanks again...
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Old 07-03-13, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Danielle View Post
Thanks a lot. I'm glad I don't have to take the tape off. I just did that not too long ago. So the cable end will find the outer opening once you snake it through the bottom of the shifter? Thanks again...
Maybe, maybe not, you may have to try threading it a few times until it feeds through. BTW, don't cut the far end of the cable until after it has been threaded through the housing. The weld will keep all of the strands together and make it a lot easier to thread. A cut cable is likely to snag one or more loose strands.
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Old 07-03-13, 06:53 AM
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So the possibility is I have to rewrap the bars every time I change a cable? That's ridiculous. What a piss poor design.......I want to be able to just change a cable when I have to without going through all this nonsense. Time to start looking for an ok set I dura ace externally routed shifters..
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Old 07-03-13, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Danielle View Post
So the possibility is I have to rewrap the bars every time I change a cable? That's ridiculous. What a piss poor design.......
No, that's just mis-reading the advice, as I linked above to the instructions, the inners don't need the tape to be unwrapped, what #hillrider was saying, is if using cut (i.e. don't use a previously used inner) , the inner may get snagged on the outer if the inner frays, if you are using new (uncut) inners and well cut outers, there is little chance of snagging when inserting, even if the inner did snag, you can just lift up the rear of the hood to guide the inner through, still no need to undo the bar tape.

Given that this design has been in use by Shimano for 6 years, and by Campagnolo for getting on 20 years+ with no issue, your making a fuss over a non issue.

For using 7800 STI's, you may run into issues, as these are not technically compatible in all areas with current *7** series parts.
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Old 07-03-13, 07:29 AM
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Thanks. Will try it ......
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Old 07-03-13, 04:38 PM
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If you have trouble, try putting a very slight bend right near the end of the cable and twisting it.

And if you don't like it, I wouldn't switch to other STIs, unless you're married to being able to brake and shift simultaneously with ease... you might want to consider Ergos or Doubletaps and a Shiftmate.
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Old 07-03-13, 06:26 PM
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Don't be discouraged by reading the Shimano Techdoc and noting how the wraps aren't installed yet on the bars. Chances are that you aren't changing cables that often. But my new rule of maintenance on internal routed brifters is to -always- bring a soldering iron, a roll of solder and long extension cord. I use generic cables and they are usually more than long enough. The problem is I have to cut one of the tips and it will fray no matter what. Soldering the tips is the key to getting the new cable to thread through. The brifter should usually be in the small cog position (zero tension on the cable) and then it should thread from underneath toward the outside of the brifter. If you roll back the hood, you'll see it. The trick however is getting it to exit the brifter and into the cable housing. The cable housing (which is under the wraps) must be tight up against the brifter, and the special 4mm cable cap must be installed pointing into the brifter. The tip of that cap fits the recess so the cable exit of the brifter lines up with the housing. I've had the displeasure of finding out that some shop actually replaced this cap with some generic cap that didn't have the recess, and therefore no alignment capability. You will then need to loosen the clamp bolt, and wiggle a little, see if you can extract the head of the cable housing, and then pass the cable through visually, and stuff it all back in, and then secure the clamp with the brifter back in place without disturbing the handlebar wraps too much.

And I'm over the hill in age. I desperately should get some bifocals but haven't. So if I can do this half-blind, you probably won't have too hard a time. For me, this is a 5-WTF-bomb job. Most jobs are about 3 WTF-bombs. The worst are like 10. So it's not all that bad.
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Old 07-04-13, 03:04 AM
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Originally Posted by gyozadude View Post
Soldering the tips is the key to getting the new cable to thread through.
Are you using silver solder, or are you using cheap galvanised cables on 10s Shimano? o_O
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Old 07-04-13, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
Are you using silver solder, or are you using cheap galvanised cables on 10s Shimano? o_O
Even using silver solder this can be difficult with s/s cables. It's not something I'd be tempted to try myself.
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Old 07-04-13, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by gyozadude View Post
Soldering the tips is the key to getting the new cable to thread through.
New shift cables almost have their tips spot welded so soldering isn't needed. For double end cable (Shimano+Campy), where you have to cut off one end, super glue can be used to keep the cut end from fraying as soldering stainless steel cables is pretty tricky for most home mechanics.
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Old 07-05-13, 02:01 PM
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Cheap galvanized cable or SS are both okay. It's easier to solder galvanized for sure. Any low temp electronics solder works. But with stainless, you'll need to pre-dip in flux (acid etching paste) which will draw in the solder between the strands. A higher power (25W+) soldering iron (pref. 60W) which is what I use to de-solder capacitors on motherboards, will give you better results. Using super-glue (the low viscosity, single part stuff) is one suggestion, but avoid high viscosity epoxies. The epoxies bond better, but they add a thick coating and it may not get through the small openings.

I have a colleague testing cheap galvanized cable right on with Shimano 10spd. I bought 2/$1.50 online. Galvanized is doing great after 3 months and holding just fine. But then again, time will tell. Cheap stainless isn't that expensive either. Just a $1.50 each for generic cables about 6.5 ft long.
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