How to remove an extremely seized bottom bracket?
 

Hello,

I have purchased a used titanium frame with a very stuck bottom bracket.
The frame and the late 90s Campagnolo Record BB are both English threaded, so I am pretty sure it is not cross-threaded.
However, I believe the BB cups have oxidized on the threads, even though the surface seems to be in good shape.

My LBS (in Hong Kong) tried to remove the BB with their Chinese made tools, but the handle simply snapped in half.
I have tried to soak the BB with penetrating oil and later ammonia, with no effect.

Reading on the internet, I believe the only way to remove to BB is by using destructive methods.
I have read about drilling holes on the BB and then hack-saw the BB from the center to the threads, cutting it up like a cake. This seems to be the safer method, but I have no access to a drill press. Can standard power drill go through the BB cup?

I have also seen people removing alloy BBs by soaking the frame in caustic soda. I know it works for steel frames, but would caustic soda (NaOH) damage titanium?
The frame is 3Al-2.5V if that matters.

It took me 2 years to find this frame in my size, so I am not giving up on it! Please help! Thanks!


- Roland

Carefully.

I once had a viciously seized bottom bracket in a steel frame, that I heated the BB hanger over a gas stove until the hanger became very warm, then I carefully used large adjustable pliers to unscrew it. I've also had great results with a penetrating oil called, "Rusty".

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=327180

This is what we use at the auto shop I work for.

I had this issue last week, with a seized LP26 in a steel frame, the plastic side teeth snapped when trying to remove.

Resolved by fitting a screwing a Park BBT2 into the BB metal side, using a Pedros BB socket holder to secure it (you need to use quality tools), and then fitting the BBT2 into a vice fixed on a work bench, applying some Finish Line Chill Zone (freeze spray) and then turning the frame, rather than the tool, to get more leverage on it, took a bit of effort, but the BB came out eventually. Cut the remains of the plastic side out with a handy saw, so the frame was ready for a new BB.

For your frame, would 100% check that you have an English tread BB, not an Italian, just measure the shell, English will be 68mm, Italian 70mm; and get some quality tools, there are plenty out there, alternatives to Park, include VAR, Cyclo, Cyclus, Pedros, Campagnolo and plenty of others.

Thanks for your input! The frame is a late 90s Bianchi, so it should be 68mm. I have worked on 3 Bianchis from the era and they are all 68mm.
My LBS has a full set of Park Tools, but they usually use the Chinese ones first as they are disposable. A set of alley keys cost under $10, and the design is a direct copy of the Pedro set (made with pot metal).

The freeze spray sounds like a great idea, but it may be hard to get in Hong Kong.
I have searched the forum and heard caustic soda/lye/NaOH is safe for titanium, but this website says otherwise: http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tabl..._metals_1.html

freeze spray is the same as canned air duster. just need to turn the can upside down

In other words, forget the hand drill; drill press or bust. If you choose to drill, that is.

So the cups are ally, then? Late 90s Record, I was thinking maybe Ti... which I understand seizes pretty happily to itself.

"The frame is a late 90s Bianchi, so it should be 68mm."

"Should be" is not the same as "is."

A careful measurement to 100% confirm this will take little time or effort and might save you a lot of grief.

Kano Kroil is the top penetrating oil in my book, it might be worthwhile to get some and try it plus a careful application of heat/cold.
I suspect that drilling into a bottom bracket is a lot more difficult than it sounds, especially if it is Ti like Kimmo suggests. Getting it done without breaking a lot of tools or having them walk sideways into the threads will take luck as well as skill, patience and a careful setup.

The 1998 Bianchi catalog stats the frame has English threaded BB, so I suppose it is.

The freeze spray worked! (With plenty of WD40 "Fast Release" penetrating oil) The BB survived but is not in great shape.
It turns out that the previous owner DID NOT apply ANY grease or anti-seize on the threads. Pretty strange considering it is a higher-end bike and was ridden regularly.

I am building the bike up with 2012 Record, so hopefully it wont happen again. (I remove and re-grease UT cups quite often).
I have also applied the proper titanium anti seize on the threads.

Thank you for helping out!

The table is intended to guide those choosing metals for long term service in piping and vessels, not for one-time short term exposure. So NaOH, even 50%, should do no damage for the time you will need to expose your Ti frame to it. However, be sure the cups are indeed aluminum before using NaOH. It won't help on steel cups.

Next time the BB is out, or sooner if you want to prevent issues, drill a 2mm or so weep hole in the lowest point at the middle of the BB shell. If you have a screwed in cable guide, you can remove the screw form time to time (or permanently if you use a mild adhesive on the guide) to drain the frame. You can also drill out the screw to make it serve as a weep hole.

Most of the mischief happens from water trapped inside the frame, rather than from road spray. Water is very claustrophobic, and if you don't give it a way out it'll seek revenge on you and your bike.

Thanks. The cable guide is screw-on, so I guess I can just remove it from time to time.

I had a badly stuck BB Cup, soaked it in penetrating oils and all...the thing that finally worked was a good heavy cold chisel and heavy hammer, smacking it firmly at a low angle...CAREFULLY....Finally got it to break loose. It was chromed steel in a steel frame...lots of rust.

Nickle based anti-seizes work best for Stainless and Titanium.....Leave the copper,aluminum and moly based ones for other stuff.

I saw a mechanic remove a very stuck BB by welding a piece of steel to the fixed cup to hold in a vise, and using the frame as a lever. But I think what really loosened it was the heat from the arc welding...

welding will also shrink it in addition to heat cycling it

Glad I found this thread. The Legend Ti I thought was a decent deal is turning out not to be, the BB is seized I suspect from not being lubed on assembly. I'll need to take it to a proper shop to work it out I suppose, though I may try freezing it this weekend. The rest of the bike stripped apart fairly easily too, except for the headset, it's frozen as well.

The BB? Record of course, it's also trashed. The previous owner took very poor care of this bike, he treated a Ferrari like a freaking Farmall, I should be shot for giving him hard earned money :mad:

Thank you! The can of up turned air, some good proper raps with a hammer and PB Blaster did the trick for the BB and headset, whew! All in an evening, and yes proper anti seize is on the list. I feel much better now...

Both english and italian BB's have right threading on the left side. Start there.