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Cassette Lock Rings

Old 07-06-13, 06:29 PM
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Equinox
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Cassette Lock Rings

I was wondering. They seem pretty delicate and I did strip one in the past. But I like to take off my cassette every once in awhile for cleaning. Assuming you don't over-tighten them, can they be used many times? I don't have a torque wrench, I just snug it up by feel. Where do I get a new lock ring in case I mess one up?
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Old 07-06-13, 06:32 PM
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i have tons in the scrap metal pile. not worth saving IMO unless they are campy ones
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Old 07-06-13, 06:38 PM
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Equinox, You bike shop would be a good place to order piece parts. I swap cassettes all of the time without any problems.

Brad
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Old 07-06-13, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by reptilezs View Post
i have tons in the scrap metal pile. not worth saving IMO unless they are campy ones
So, you put a new one on every time you remove the cassette?
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Old 07-06-13, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Equinox View Post
So, you put a new one on every time you remove the cassette?
when i take off the cassette i am putting a new one on. i do not clean my bikes that often. if i do clean the cassette i just floss it with a rag takes about 2 min. i fix enough bikes as it is, typical mechanic does not want to work on his own gear
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Old 07-06-13, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by reptilezs View Post
when i take off the cassette i am putting a new one on. i do not clean my bikes that often. if i do clean the cassette i just floss it with a rag takes about 2 min. i fix enough bikes as it is, typical mechanic does not want to work on his own gear
I understand. How many times do you think I can use a lock ring?
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Old 07-06-13, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Equinox View Post
I understand. How many times do you think I can use a lock ring?
There's no reason you couldn't reuse a lockring a dozen or more times.
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Old 07-06-13, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
There's no reason you couldn't reuse a lockring a dozen or more times.
+1 They don't wear out unless you really abuse them or use the wrong removal/installation tool.. BTW you want them well beyond "snug" when you install them. The spec is 40 Nm and that very tight.
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Old 07-06-13, 08:09 PM
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Thank you, both.
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Old 07-06-13, 08:28 PM
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I was surprised how much more I had to tighten one the first time I used a torque wrench.
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Old 07-06-13, 09:37 PM
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A cassette ring is included with every cassette I've ever seen so - new cassette / new ring. You actually managed to strip one********** Now THAT'S something I've never seen in my life! The recommended torque is 40Nm which requires a 24" bar and still quite a bit of oumph.
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Old 07-06-13, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Burton View Post
A cassette ring is included with every cassette I've ever seen so - new cassette / new ring. You actually managed to strip one********** Now THAT'S something I've never seen in my life! The recommended torque is 40Nm which requires a 24" bar and still quite a bit of oumph.
I don't know if they've changed since, but low and middle level Sram cassettes didn't include lock rings. The better ones did.

As for torque; 40Nm isn't all that much and shouldn't call for a 24" wrench. It's equal to 29.5 foot pounds, or shy of 30#s applied to a 12" wrench.
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Old 07-07-13, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
I don't know if they've changed since, but low and middle level Sram cassettes didn't include lock rings. The better ones did.

As for torque; 40Nm isn't all that much and shouldn't call for a 24" wrench. It's equal to 29.5 foot pounds, or shy of 30#s applied to a 12" wrench.
Hi FB
OK - so things have probably changed. Haven't seen even a low end SRAM cassette without an included lockring for a few years now.

You're also making a good case for using a torque wrench. Recommended torque values for lock rings for cassettes and centerlock brakes are some of the highest for any component on a bicycle.
http://www.shimano.com/publish/conte...ue%20Specs.pdf
http://www.parktool.com/uploads/files/blog/torque.pdf
'Isn't all that much' is pretty subjective. Its actually the same torque specification as recommended for the axle bolts that hold the wheels on and the same as the recommendation for pedal tightness. In NONE of those cases is 'finger tight' even remotely acceptable.

Lots of creaks and squeeks that come into the shop are traced to inadequate torqueing values during assembly.
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Old 07-07-13, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
I don't know if they've changed since, but low and middle level Sram cassettes didn't include lock rings. The better ones did.
Foe quite a while, all Campy cassettes with a 12T or larger smallest cog didn't come with a lockring and the lockring came with the hubs. Only 11T cassettes included the lockring. Now all Campy cassettes include the lockring.
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Old 07-07-13, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
Foe quite a while, all Campy cassettes with a 12T or larger smallest cog didn't come with a lockring and the lockring came with the hubs. Only 11T cassettes included the lockring. Now all Campy cassettes include the lockring.
Yes, this was a constant source of friction back when I was the Campy service tech. Campy hubs came with lock rings and cassettes didn't which makes sense until folks buy another brand wheel and a Campy cassette. In the end Campy joined the rest of the world including lockrings with cassettes because it was costing too much (in ill will) not to.
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Old 07-07-13, 11:10 AM
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The only time I've stripped the threads on a cassette lockring was when I was too lazy to grease the threads before trying to torque it up to 40NM.
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Old 07-07-13, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by KevinF View Post
The only time I've stripped the threads on a cassette lockring was when I was too lazy to grease the threads before trying to torque it up to 40NM.
That's interesting. Greasing threads increases the tension for a given torque compared to clean threads, so I would expect it more likely to strip threads that were greased if over-torquing a fastener. I'll mention that in many industrial, automotive and aviation applications, torque is specified for clean dry threads unless otherwise noted.
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Old 07-07-13, 01:53 PM
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Why would the lock ring have any predicted, or limited, "life expectancy". It's just a threaded piece of hardware, like any bolt or screw. They don't have "life expectancy". They only become unusable if they're damaged - like cross threaded, GROSSLY overtorqued and stripped (that would be tough) or the teeth being stripped or damaged because the cassette tool wasn't meshed solidly.

Take it off, put it back on forever if you dont' damage it. I've never heard of anyone limiting removal and replacement of a cassette for fear of wearing out the lock ring.

As for the amount of effort required to properly torque a cassette: I'm on the side of "it's really a good grunt to do it". If you're talking 24" or even 12" wrench, well maybe. But most everyone, I would guess, uses what I use which is either a normal size socket driver or a large crescent type or box end wrench to hold the cassette tool. Those are usually 8" max. I have to really grunt on an 8" socket driver to get it torque - and I know this because I have a Craftsman torque wrench, and I really have to grunt on that thing to get it up to torque as well.

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Old 07-07-13, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by KevinF View Post
The only time I've stripped the threads on a cassette lockring was when I was too lazy to grease the threads before trying to torque it up to 40NM.
I would think it was the result of cross threading, not the lack of grease, that caused the damage.
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