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Shimano Derailleur single shifter lever HELP

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Shimano Derailleur single shifter lever HELP

Old 07-07-13, 07:05 PM
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Tblazetic
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Shimano Derailleur single shifter lever HELP

Hello,

I have a 1980 schwinn suburban that my wife wants me to fix up so she can use. It's been sitting in storage for about 15 years. I have most of it cleaned up real nice (cleaned chrome, replaced tires and inner tubes, adjusted the brakes, and got most the dents out of the fenders) it looks real good compared to what it did look like. The big problem now is the Shimano Derailleur single shifter lever cable is broken. I can't seem to find the cable cheap. I have two questions:

1) am I able to get a cable cheap or is there an alternative that's cheap?

2) my wife really doesn't need to shift gears. Could I fix the derailleur to stay in one gear?

Any advise would be helpful. If I get this fixed, this project will be finished.
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Old 07-07-13, 08:27 PM
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Is it a Positron derailleur?
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Old 07-07-13, 10:25 PM
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It's a Shimano Positron system- a solid wire inside a special housing pulls and pushes the derailleur into position. Positron parts are hard to come by- they've been out of production for 25 years. You might get lucky on Ebay, though.

The bonus of the Positron system is that it indexes at the derailleur. If she's not going to shift, just remove the "cable" and shift lever, move the derailleur into whatever gear she likes, and leave it there. It will stay in the selected gear without you needing to do anything else.


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Old 07-08-13, 10:58 AM
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Thats the bike. Its a 5 speed. I'll see about just removing the cable and setting the deraillure to the prefered gear. I've been looking for a couple of weeks for the cable with no luck unless I spend $90.

Also, While cleaning up the bike i noticed that there is what seems to be oil leaking from the foot pedal hub. Not sure what its called... Is there a way to take this apart, relubricate it and put it back together?
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Old 07-08-13, 11:09 AM
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It's called the bottom bracket and very easily done on a one-piece (Ashtabula) crank, no special tools needed. In fact it technically can be done without removing the pedals. Google overhaul one-piece crank. Be aware that Schwinn used a different size caged bearing than standard (66 vs. 64).
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Old 07-08-13, 11:13 AM
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Those, as I recall have a front freewheel in the crank instead of the freewheel in the rear Hub.
[says so in the ad copy]

just remove the whole RD, lever, cable, the works. , pick a gear combination ,
shorten the chain to go around that one combination and You are done.



Positron/front freewheel was a dead end for a reason ..

They trued many things to make bikes, with gear ratios ,
for people that didnt want to think about how to use gears .


Now the STI stuff with number Windows in the levers is close to that. ..
Nu Vinci CVR hub is even closer.

A Coaster brake rear wheel and another crank with one chainring is a KISS option.
and the backup of a brake that works better than a hard rubber pad
on a hard chromeplated steel rim will be an important safety feature.

Last edited by fietsbob; 07-08-13 at 11:25 AM.
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Old 07-08-13, 11:27 AM
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I'm not entirely impressed by the "my wife really doesn't need to shift gears" bit. You've taken the trouble of doing cosmetic work on the fenders and replaced tubes, which can last practically forever in storage - and you're willing to let the bike go with a hobbled drivetrain? Every one deserves a functional bike.

I say, scrap the Positron. Put the parts in a box for later if the restoration bug would bite you later on.
Buy this:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourne...=rear+derailer

And this:
http://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-TY-15-...+speed+shifter

Or possibly this:
http://www.amazon.com/Ramiko-Frictio...=thumb+shifter
as I'm not certain of the Positron spacing.

And this:
http://www.amazon.com/Bell-Bike-Fix-...fter+cable+set

Something like USD 20 and it's all sorted.

By foot pedal hub I think you mean bottom bracket, that's the shell in the frame that the crank arms turns in. Do a net search for "service ashtabula cranks" or possibly "ashtabula bottom bracket" and see what comes up.
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Old 07-08-13, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Those, as I recall have a front freewheel in the crank instead of the freewheel in the rear Hub.
[says so in the ad copy].

Good catch, I didn't read that close.
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Old 07-08-13, 11:35 AM
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My guess , Frame, Its a standard Ashtabula OPC type BB shell , so you can turn it into a coaster brake cruiser ..

strip out the whole FF parts, the coaster brake hubs [in a different wheel] freewheel to stop pedaling ,
when you Back pedal you put the Brakes on.
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Old 07-08-13, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Those, as I recall have a front freewheel in the crank instead of the freewheel in the rear Hub. Just remove the whole RD, lever, cable, the works. , pick a gear combination ,
shorten the chain to go around that one combination and You are done.
That's a lot of work to accomplish the same thing as just placing the derailleur in the desired gear, and a poor idea where there may be a significant angle from front to rear. The freewheel being in the rear has nothing to do with the fix - you can also just mount a standard derailleur and handlebar stem friction lever and it will work fine.
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Old 07-08-13, 01:44 PM
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Dabac,

I like the idea of just replacing the derailleur instead of fixing it to one gear. IT may not look like it goes with the bike but, at least if will be functional and reliable. Is there a 5 speed derailleur or will the 6-7 work?
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Old 07-08-13, 01:59 PM
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Might be a bit weird but I suppose as long as you keep pedaling a pull-return spring RD

will shove the chain back and forth.. use by all means, a friction shift-shift-lever.. minimize incompatible weirdnesses ..

hell I dont even think anything else will fit on the back wheel or that non freewheeling cluster is removable.

havent seen any in 30 years..

without replacing the whole wheel, so It has a freewheel of its own , they unscrew so are replaceable .

Sturmey Archer 3 speeds are so much more practical.
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Old 07-08-13, 03:05 PM
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No, you don't have to keep pedaling to shift, as the rear cog is always turning while the bike is moving. That was exactly the intended advantage of the FF sysem.

Any rear derailleur will work, 6/7 speed just refers to their indexing compatibility - means they would work with 6 or 7 speed shifters in SIS mode, but of course would require a compatible freewheel (in your case) or cassette.

Finally, if one needs to replace the the rear cluster on the FF system, it is removed the same as a standard freewheel, but some nuts and washers must be removed and it requires the old-style (smaller diameter) Shimano freewheel tool.
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There's no such thing as a routine repair.

Don't tell me what "should" be - either it is, it isn't, or do something about it.

If you think I'm being blunt take it as a compliment - if I thought you were too weak to handle the truth or a strong opinion I would not bother.

Please respect others by taking the time to post clearly so we can answer quickly. All lowercase and multiple typos makes for a hard read. Thanks!
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Old 07-08-13, 08:22 PM
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Okay... I removed the pedal shaft from the bottom bracket and boy was it gritty. Good thing I cleaned all the bearings and re-greased it.

Back to the derailleur. I'm going to get a standard 6/7 speed rear dérailleur, cable, and single lever.

How do I know the new rear dérailleur is compatible with the 1980 freewheel?
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Old 07-08-13, 08:30 PM
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With a friction derailleur it does not matter - you just have to adjust the limits correctly. Again, plenty of guidance on the Internet for adjusting rear derailleurs.
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There's no such thing as a routine repair.

Don't tell me what "should" be - either it is, it isn't, or do something about it.

If you think I'm being blunt take it as a compliment - if I thought you were too weak to handle the truth or a strong opinion I would not bother.

Please respect others by taking the time to post clearly so we can answer quickly. All lowercase and multiple typos makes for a hard read. Thanks!
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Old 07-08-13, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by cny-bikeman View Post
With a friction derailleur it does not matter - you just have to adjust the limits correctly. Again, plenty of guidance on the Internet for adjusting rear derailleurs.
Agreed. A "friction" shift lever, a rear derailleur (anything will do), a cable and a full length of cable housing is all you need.
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