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Drivetrain Advice on Vintage Marin Hybrid

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Drivetrain Advice on Vintage Marin Hybrid

Old 07-08-13, 10:44 AM
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roscoe1972
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Drivetrain Advice on Vintage Marin Hybrid

I was happy to obtain a barely used 1995 Marin San Rafael Hybrid. The frame is Tange triple butted special to Marin, and it fits me perfectly!
I have been fighting upgrade fever, but have a few questions on how to proceed. (has Alivio components and gripshifts)

First.... I swapped saddle, grips and pedals with spares from parts box

2. I hate the gripshifts, so I bought new Shimano 7-speed trigger shifters (came with cables and housing)

3. I put an old Sugino crank on to replace the recalled Alivio.


Everything came together great and I was loving my first few rides then I notice the chain-stay was getting slapped to hell. The chain tension seems right, so I checked the freehub.

The 7-speed freehub spun freely, but I guess not for as long as it should. Not having solvent, I opened the seal and just added mineral oil.

The chain is still slapping and I am looking for advice.
Do I take the freehub off again and try to thin the old oil with something then try lubing again?
(I should mention that the cassette is rough in two higher gears and probably could be replaced)
Buy a new freehub? (get new cassette & chain?)
Get a cheap new wheel? (8 or 9 speed?)
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Old 07-08-13, 09:34 PM
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When is the chain slapping the stays? When coasting on a smooth road or only on bumps? Without pedaling tension a chain will bounce on bumps. If the freehub body bearings are not spinning freely the chain will advance while coasting and tend to rest on/slap the stay even more. So you need to figure out the cause and situations. New cassettes and Chains won't likely help the root cause, but will ride/feel nicer under pressure. When you replaced the crank were the ring sizes the same? if not then the der might not be within it's chain take up range any longer. Andy.
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Old 07-08-13, 10:24 PM
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Is the chain properly sized?
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Old 07-08-13, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
Is the chain properly sized?
+1

That is a very nice bike. Shimano’s lower group components from that era work amazingly well. You’ve addressed the main problems and I certainly would not consider replacing a hub or wheel unless necessary. You have an excellent freehub.

You might consider:
1. cleaning and relubing the headset, wheel bearings, and BB if it’s not a cartridge.
2. Removing, cleaning, and inspecting the entire drivetrain in order to reinstall and adjust it from first principles (per Shimano instructions). That would include details like chain length, cables, b-screw, etc. Marin is a good brand but I’ve seen many older low mile bikes that were never setup right from the factory -- especially the chain length. You will still get chain slap on bumps so you probably need a nice thick stay protector.

Your bike can function very well for a long time with little attention, and give much satisfaction. If people understood how good these older bikes are, they would never spend anything to fix or "upgrade" a BSO.

Last edited by AnkleWork; 07-08-13 at 11:21 PM.
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Old 07-08-13, 11:08 PM
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BTW, you might still get that Alivio crank warrantied. The replacement won't be very bling, but it might make an OK spare.
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Old 07-09-13, 07:29 AM
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The bike seems to ride fine. I believe it's when I hit a bump that the chain slaps. I have put a thick protector on the stay, but it is tricky because the cable runs so close to the tube.
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Old 07-09-13, 07:34 AM
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I first purchased a thick lizard skin stick on protector and it looked good. But after a ride there were nicks on the lower half of the stay where the protector stopped. I then got a lizard skin velcro wrap protector.

I tried to wrap it around the padded sticker protector, but together they are so thick that the RD cable rubs slightly.
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Old 07-09-13, 07:36 AM
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I put the chain in the Big/big cogs and it seemed OK. Maybe I should try taking a link out?
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Old 07-09-13, 07:42 AM
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Riding in big/big is not really a solution and no you don't "try" taking a link out. Google Sheldon chain size and read all about it, and don't ride in the small/small combos.
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Old 07-09-13, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by roscoe1972 View Post
I put the chain in the Big/big cogs and it seemed OK. Maybe I should try taking a link out?
I would not alter the chain until I confirmed that it is too long. Also, setup the rear derailer from the beginning, including the b-screw -- it affects chain tension some.
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Old 07-09-13, 07:45 AM
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One other question....

Which rear derailleur should I use on the bike?

1. The original barely used 1995 Alivio
2. A slightly more modern 2001 Alivio that has seen light usage
3. a heavily used, scuffed-up (but functional) 1996 Deore LX

Which is likely to give the snappiest shifting? would the springs in the highly used DeoreLX be worn so it wouldn't be as good as the less used lower components?
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Old 07-09-13, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by roscoe1972 View Post
One other question....

Which rear derailleur should I use on the bike?

1. The original barely used 1995 Alivio
2. A slightly more modern 2001 Alivio that has seen light usage
3. a heavily used, scuffed-up (but functional) 1996 Deore LX

Which is likely to give the snappiest shifting? would the springs in the highly used DeoreLX be worn so it wouldn't be as good as the less used lower components?
Which one has the most metal and the least wear?

You won't improve shifting on the 1995 Alivio, setup correctly, without replacing just about the whole drivetrain -- then only slightly. Bonus: the 1995 Alivio will stay in adjustment a long time if maintained.

Consider lubing the pivots and disassembling, cleaning, lubing the jockey wheel axles. That will give you an opportunity to really check chain length outside the tensioner.

Also, clean the cable inners and housing of any old sticky lube. Lightly lube the inside of the shifters and shifting will be about as good as it gets.
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