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9/10 Speed Campagnolo Record Hub Adjustment?

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9/10 Speed Campagnolo Record Hub Adjustment?

Old 07-14-13, 12:56 PM
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himespau 
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9/10 Speed Campagnolo Record Hub Adjustment?

I decided I'd like to build a bike up from scratch. Have thought about it for a while, but now am actually going forward with it. Decided I'd also like to try Campagnolo parts since I've never used integrated brakes/shifters before and, initially, it seemed cheaper to get into 10 speed with veloce/centaur than any Shimano option. Until it came time to buy wheels. Finally, I found a used wheelset with 36h Record hubs laced to Mavic CXP-33 rims. Sounded good enough, though heavy, so I thought I'd give them a try.

When they arrived, the rims had more wear than I'd expected from the pictures (but, oh well, not enough to get into complaints over), to the point where I thought maybe it'd be a good idea to clean and repack the hubs because they might not have been maintained well either. Plus, I'd heard somewhere it was a good idea to clean and repack all hubs when you get them, especially when they're used.

The thing is, I've never done this before. Anybody have a link to a good tutorial?

Also, does anybody know what sized cone wrenches I'm going to need for a silver 9/10 speed record hub (front and rear matching)?

Thanks so much.
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Old 07-14-13, 01:06 PM
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Modern Campagnolo hubs don't use cone wrenches. They adjust via a split nut on the left which in turn is locked with a 2.5mm (?) hex key. The adjustment is done withe wheel mounted which eliminated guesswork.

1- mount wheel
2- check for rim play at the brake shoes (if none, you're finished)
3- loosen pinch screw on left side adjuster
4- tighten the adjuster by degrees until there's zero detectable play at the rim + 5° more (if in doubt) but do not over tighten.
5- tighten pinch screw


Check that the wheel spins freely.

If you've overtightened you cannot simply back off the adjuster. Remove the wheel, and back off the adjuster, then tap the axle to free the bearing and establish some play. Repeat the adjustment process with the bike in the bike.
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Old 07-14-13, 01:42 PM
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So there aren't bearings to clean/adjust/repack? These are probably 10-15 year old hubs (late 90's/earky 00's or so).
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Old 07-14-13, 01:42 PM
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Elaborating on what FB posted, Campy hubs don't require cone wrenches. They disassemble by placing a 5 mm hex wrench into both axle ends and unthread the axle end cap on the NDS of the rear hub and one side of the front hub. Then, using a 2.5 mm hex key (FB was correct) you loosen the clamping bolt of the "cone" and unthread it to get to the cup-and-cone bearings. Campy uses 5/32" bearing balls in reusable plastic retainers for both hubs with 15 balls/side.

As also noted, once the hubs are lubed and reassembled, adjusting the bearing clearance is done with the wheel installed in the frame. The the cone is tightened using a 20 mm open end cone wrench or the 2.5 mm hex key as a lever until all play is just gone and the clamping bolt tightened.

Here is Campy's Tech document index: http://www.campagnolo.com/jsp/en/docstec/doccatid_8.jsp

Scroll down to "Wheels" and download the .pdf for details.
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Old 07-14-13, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by himespau View Post
So there aren't bearings to clean/adjust/repack? These are probably 10-15 year old hubs (late 90's/earky 00's or so).
It would have helped to know that.

There is only 1 year where 9s hubs didn't have the new (current) aluminum axles and adjustment system. If your hubs have steel axles and locknuts (obvious by the lack of the split cover on the left) they adjust the same as any other hubs.

You didn't mention cleaning, just adjustment. The new design is super easy to service, but it's a regular cone/loose ball system.

Use 2 6mm hex wrenches to take the the left side axle cap off the axle.
Remove the split cap, then tap the axle gently to pop the expander cone free (same as a threadless headset system) and slide the axle out to the right with the freehub body attached.

When reassembling it's important not to dislodge the pawls as you rotate the freehub into the ratchet ring. This is a bit harder on the early versions that have small springs under each pawl (don't lose these when you disassemble). I wind a turn of dental floss around the pawls to hold them in, slide into the ratchet ring, then slide the floss out through a gap.
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Old 07-14-13, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
Elaborating on what FB posted, Campy hubs don't require cone wrenches.
It depends on the model and vintage.

Record rear hubs through 1998 have the conventional setup with cones and non-drive-side lock nut both taking cone wrenches with 9 cog free hubs for the 1997 and 1998 model years. Lots of people also upgraded older 8 cog models before the supply of new old stock 10mm axle cup-and-cone 9/10 speed free-hubs dried up (I converted my two rear hubs after Campagnolo discontinued the 13-21 8 cog cassette).

Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 07-14-13 at 02:20 PM.
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Old 07-14-13, 03:25 PM
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hmmm, I'll have to look closely to see what I have then. I know it has the grease port, so in the future can I just inject grease there rather than taking it apart, or is that something that will still be required?
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Old 07-14-13, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by himespau View Post
hmmm, I'll have to look closely to see what I have then. I know it has the grease port, so in the future can I just inject grease there rather than taking it apart, or is that something that will still be required?
That's an oil port. Once in a while add oil to keep the grease from drying out, or as some do for racing, use a heavy oil in lieu of grease.
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Old 07-14-13, 04:53 PM
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Since I don't know what I'm doing at all, is it possible to tell from these pictures whether my hub is the kind to use allen wrenches or cone wrenches? It looks to me like there are flats for cone wrenches, but, like I said, I don't know what I'm doing.






A couple other questions, by heavy oil, do you mean like motor oil?

Also, I just frame saver treated the frame and haven't put it together in any way shape or form yet, no headset on or fork connected, so the frame isn't stable to just sit there like when it's all put together and resting on saddle and bars. Can I check adjustment of the bearings in my truing stand, or would it just be better to wait until the frame is assembled and do it then?
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Old 07-14-13, 05:10 PM
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These are classic cup and cone hubs (as evidenced by the cone wrench slots). They're serviced just like any cup/cone hub as far as left side bearing and final adjustment goes. However, once the left is off, the axle slides out to the right the same way as I described earlier for newer hubs.
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Old 07-14-13, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
That's an oil port. Once in a while add oil to keep the grease from drying out, or as some do for racing, use a heavy oil in lieu of grease.
It's a grease port. You can use a small grease gun (I have one from Pedros) to inject grease until what's coming out between cones and dust covers is clean. For the rear hub you want to pull the freehub body so it doesn't fill up and clean the excess out of the ratchet ring cavity before re-installing.

By the over-sized axle change official lubrication intervals were 1200 - 3000 miles versus 6000 - 12000 for dis-assembly.

As a foot note those aren't Record skewers (those have a D-ring on the nut), the front is not a 9 speed Record hub (those had Campagnolo's short lived adjustable cartridge bearing), and that implies the hubs may not be Record.

Chorus hubs from that era had grease ports too (I own two sets). 1996 rears were identical to Record apart from the skewer, although 1997/1998 9 speed Record hubs got a titanium axle and pawl carrier in the freehub.

The distinction is important when it comes to the front hub - Record used 7/32" balls not 3/16".

Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 07-14-13 at 06:13 PM.
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Old 07-14-13, 06:34 PM
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ok, so these are probably 9 speed chorus hubs then? That's a bummer as they were sold to me as Record, but I left them sitting for 3-4 months, so it's too late to complain now. Any idea what size cone wrenches they'll need?
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Old 07-14-13, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by himespau View Post
ok, so these are probably 9 speed chorus hubs then? That's a bummer as they were sold to me as Record, but I left them sitting for 3-4 months, so it's too late to complain now. Any idea what size cone wrenches they'll need?
Don't hold me to this since it was a long time ago. But IIRC the Chorus hubs those years didn't have the oil hole, so if they have a hole they're Record.
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Old 07-14-13, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
Don't hold me to this since it was a long time ago. But IIRC the Chorus hubs those years didn't have the oil hole, so if they have a hole they're Record.
I own two sets of Chorus hubs which I bought brand new in 1996 (perhaps 1997 for the second set) and they have grease ports. Campagnolo spares catalogs through the 1998 model year show the same configuration.

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Old 07-14-13, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Drew Eckhardt View Post
I own two sets of Chorus hubs which I bought brand new in 1996-1997 and they have grease ports. Campagnolo spares catalogs through the 1998 model year show the same configuration.
I said don't hold me to it. They stopped drilling the oil port in Chorus hubs sometime between 1999 and 2000, but I don't remember whether it was before or when they changed to the new design.
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