Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

stem extension and safety question on my peugeot

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

stem extension and safety question on my peugeot

Old 07-14-13, 10:43 PM
  #1  
xuwol7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 431
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
stem extension and safety question on my peugeot

previous post:
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...-stem-question
yes it was 22.2mm and fit perfect.

Measurements:

1. top of the headset nut to top of the bolt is 6" (overall length)
2. top of the headset nut to top of the rivbike stem extension is 2"
3. top of the stem extension to top of the bolt is 4" (with 2# into the stem extension on the original bull moose Tom Ritchey handlebars.

It feels very safe and secure and everything is tight with anti-seize compound.
This is a vintage mtb 1984 peugeot canyon express and at age 50 I no longer get crazy on the trails and use this as a long distance commuter with sometimes riding on the gravel, mud, dirt grass etc. but my bones cannot handle any radical mtb stunts...lol


Hope all this was clear and thanks to all as I always get such great expert advice..
xuwol7 is offline  
Old 07-14-13, 10:52 PM
  #2  
fietsbob 
coprolite
 
fietsbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 41,396

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 188 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6925 Post(s)
Liked 246 Times in 204 Posts
not seeing it.. pictures Help.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 07-14-13, 11:01 PM
  #3  
ThermionicScott 
hungry
 
ThermionicScott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 19,057

Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers)

Mentioned: 76 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2308 Post(s)
Liked 265 Times in 200 Posts
As long as no minimum insertion marks are showing and the bolts are tight, you should be fine.
__________________
Originally Posted by chandltp View Post
There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
RUSA #7498
ThermionicScott is offline  
Old 07-15-13, 12:43 AM
  #4  
xuwol7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 431
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Min insertion mark is showing on the original bull moose bars 1" over insertion mark.
2" of the original bull moose bars are into the stem extension .( bull moose integrated stem is a total of 3").

Do not have a camera (wish I did).

Feels solid but I need to re-do the the brake and transmission cables and housings.

The frame is perfect for my size, the high seat post (and possible stem-x) are both high.

The original seat post to handlebar height is a 4" drop which is good for aggressive riding( I am in shape and flexible but for long distance touring the added 2" in the stem length would be nice.)

I am simply making this great classic bike more commuting friendly for my old bones as I love this bike and had her forever.

If it is safe I will install the cables and housings accordingly (can always remove the stem extension in a minute or leave it long..aggressive riding or century riding).



If it is not safe I will leave it with the 4" drop but was wondering if I could pull off the even saddle--handle bar and be safe.

Thanks for all your help as I was wondering if I could make this a century bike and a mtb bike with a quick change of the stem extension..
xuwol7 is offline  
Old 07-15-13, 08:51 AM
  #5  
fietsbob 
coprolite
 
fietsbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 41,396

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 188 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6925 Post(s)
Liked 246 Times in 204 Posts
.. Thing is really the stem wedge, should extend below the length of the threaded portion of the fork.
to the part where the threads were not cut into the fork steerer tube..
fietsbob is offline  
Old 07-15-13, 09:40 AM
  #6  
ThermionicScott 
hungry
 
ThermionicScott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 19,057

Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers)

Mentioned: 76 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2308 Post(s)
Liked 265 Times in 200 Posts
Originally Posted by xuwol7 View Post
Min insertion mark is showing on the original bull moose bars 1" over insertion mark.
2" of the original bull moose bars are into the stem extension .( bull moose integrated stem is a total of 3").
This isn't very clear. If the stems are in far enough, you shouldn't be able to see any of the minimum insertion marks. Can you?

If you can see any of the minimum insertion marks, you need to fix that before riding the bike.

(As a side note, I have a hard time believing this bike is truly the right size if you need a stem extender *and* bull moose bars with 150mm extension to make it fit.)
__________________
Originally Posted by chandltp View Post
There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
Originally Posted by noglider
People in this forum are not typical.
RUSA #7498

Last edited by ThermionicScott; 07-15-13 at 09:43 AM.
ThermionicScott is offline  
Old 07-15-13, 09:51 AM
  #7  
Wilfred Laurier
Señor Member
 
Wilfred Laurier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4,514
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 406 Post(s)
Liked 104 Times in 74 Posts
Originally Posted by ThermionicScott View Post
(As a side note, I have a hard time believing this bike is truly the right size if you need a stem extender *and* bull moose bars with 150mm extension to make it fit.)
this was my first thought too

just because you have a long seatpost doesnt mean you have to have a bunch of it out of the frame

generally speaking you want about a hands width of seatpost showing on a level top tube road bike
and between one and two hands showing on a level top tube mountain bike
and more for a modern sloping top tube bike

it is very hard to say for sure but it sounds like the bike you have is much too small for you
Wilfred Laurier is offline  
Old 07-15-13, 11:54 AM
  #8  
LesterOfPuppets
cowboy, steel horse, etc
 
LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Valley of the Sun.
Posts: 32,746

Bikes: everywhere

Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4113 Post(s)
Liked 111 Times in 83 Posts
Too small to provide an upright riding position, anyways.

I had to go way big to get bars level with saddle. 17-18" MTBs are in my prefered XC bike size range, but for upright 'round-towning I ride a gigantic Fuji.


2013-07-06_10-41-30_739 by Wheel Deals Vancouver, WA, on Flickr
LesterOfPuppets is offline  
Old 07-15-13, 04:01 PM
  #9  
xuwol7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 431
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks guys for all your help.

The stem extension will not work for safety reasons.
The mtb is a perfect size for off road trail, gravel, dirt, mud,snow etc riding, but for a street riding/commting
it is a bit cramped so a larger frame for 'round town riding is in order.

The distance from the top of the saddle to the top of the handlebars is a 4" drop, its not impossible or a hand numbing riding experience. I had a stem extender and was looking to make this bike something it is not...lol

Thanks again, you guys saved me the trouble of having to route new gear and brake cables and housings.
xuwol7 is offline  
Old 07-17-13, 10:41 AM
  #10  
Grand Bois
Senior Member
 
Grand Bois's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pinole, CA, USA
Posts: 17,416
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 430 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
If you want to get really upright, move the grip position back by using something like an Albatross bar. There will be virtually no weight on your hands. A larger frame will probably mean a longer top tube, which stretches you out more.
Grand Bois is offline  
Old 07-17-13, 01:27 PM
  #11  
Gravity Aided
Senior Member
 
Gravity Aided's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Normal, Illinois
Posts: 2,692

Bikes: Trek 600 ,Trek 950, 1986 Schwinn Passage, Facet Biotour 2000, Falcon San Remo 531,Univega Supra Sport, Corso Special Valentino,

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Sounds to me like a bigger bike, with the inherent longer top tube, may be helpful. It has been for me. I ride a big old Diamondback Topanga, and have used swept back bars in the past. This one, however, works fine with the straight bar.
Gravity Aided is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
han123
Classic & Vintage
11
08-27-17 07:17 AM
lvmickey
Hybrid Bicycles
2
08-10-17 10:45 AM
rideandgoseek
Classic & Vintage
14
11-16-16 06:09 PM
Chitown_Mike
Classic & Vintage
9
10-19-12 04:22 PM
hauss32
Classic & Vintage
0
07-11-12 12:15 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.