Torque wrench
 

I've been wrenching on and off mainly on my own bikes and friends' bikes for a long time. I also worked in shops in the 80s when no one I knew used a torque wrench. I have no experience with torque wrenches. So I have two questions.

(1) Should I get one? I think it would be useful but I can't say I feel I have to have one.

(2) Which one to get (and why)?

Thanks!

Like you, I don't use torque wrenches. But some components being marketed today can be very finicky about torque with very narrow bands between tight enough to do the job, and over-tight where stripping or breaking can happen. IMO this is bad design, but it's something we have to deal with, unless we avoid this hardware (I try to).

In any case, a torque wrench can be very useful, not as a replacement for good judgement, and skill, but as an adjunct. I have no suggestions regarding brands, but you should shop for value, avoiding rebranded stuff which simply add extra layers of cost. Also, get a sense of the torque values you'll be working with and buy a wrench where those are toward the mid-range of the scale, where the calibrations will be most accurate.

My FIL bought me one for X-mas a couple years ago... not bike specific, Craftsman. I bought the allen wrench sockets that go on it and I printed out a table of suggested torque values. I use it, but I got along fine without one for many years.

I suggest getting one if you have:
carbon handlebars
carbon steer tube
carbon stem
carbon crank

Otherwise, your calibrated elbow from 80's bike shop work will be fine.

Buy both a 1/4"-square drive and a 1/2"- square drive torque wrench, the small one for low torque fasteners (handle bars, stems, etc) and the larger one for high torque requirements (bottom brackets, crank arms). Beam type wrenches are much less expensive and are very durable.

BTW, this question comes up here often. A search should lead to numerous threads on the pros and cons of various types and the need for them at all. I'm in the "use one" camp.

Been using torque wrenches on cars, motorcycles, aircraft and at work long before using them on bikes. If they're good and appropriate for all those, they're good for bikes too.

I got a 1/4" drive cheapie recently, but only have 3/8" drive allen keys- don't recall seeing them in 1/4" drive, nor a 1/4"-3/8" adapter.

Suggestions?

I would only get one if I worked on carbon bike/components a lot. Never broken a bolt or had one come loose so far.

I bought a Kobal (Lowes house brand) this summer for another project. It didn't work. I torqued the snot out of a couple of bolts that were supposed to be tightened to 20 foot lbs, and it didn't even register.
If you want to get one, go with a better brand, e.g., Craftsman or Snap-on. For bicycle parts, you'll need one that's sensitive on the low range.

Sear's - 3 or 4 bucks...1/4" drive to 3/8" output.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-4-t...p-00904257000P

But low value torques might be skewed a bit without a higher-end wrench??

1/4" drive hex bits are common as are 1/4"F to 3/8" M adapters.

Sears sells 1/4" drive hex bits in both SAE and Metric sizes:

http://www.sears.com/search=1/4%22%2...e=CAT_REC_PRED

Sears also has a 4-piece adapter set that includes the 1/4F to 3/8M but they are available separately:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-4-pc-...&blockType=G14

I haven't tried Home Depot or Lowes or NAPA shops but I think they all sell them too.

I know some may differ on this, but Harbor Freight sells 1/4" size torque wrenches for $10-12 with one of their coupons (not sure of normal price...probably $20-30). I bought a 1/2" torque wrench there years ago, and had a mechanic with a $2xx Snap-On that gets calibrated at least twice a year check some of the bolts on my car against his, and they were within a few pounds at most (these are 60-95 foot-lb).

One thing to be very careful about is ensuring you have proper conversions. Bike components are usually in Newton Meters (N-m) and you'll need to get the correct conversions for your torque wrench. My 1/4" has inch-lbs if I remember right and some other odd measurement...I just got conversions for a few regular torque levels and worked accordingly. Per Google... 1 newton meter =8.85074579 inches pound force

I have some very expensive torque wrenches for motorcycle and car work, but for the smaller bike jobs, I like this. Cheap, and pretty darn accurate.

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TW-1...+torque+wrench

Need to throw in carbon frames, especially if you have a clamp on FD, and carbon seat posts and saddles with carbon rails.

I don't own anything carbon other than two carbon forks both with aluminum steerers but I'm not sure how well calibrated my 80s era elbow is . . . So far so good, though, :)

Another consideration I didn't see mentioned is that the Beam type torque wrenches are the only ones that will work with left handed threads. At least none of my click types are bi-directional. Might only be useful for bottom bracket work, but something to consider.

Dan

there are little pre sets they go click at like 5Nm for bolts like discs to the wheel..

I have 3 and fortunately haven't had to use any on my bicycle yet....I did a cam shaft replacement on my Harley and used 2 of them... i have a in/lbs and 2 ft/lbs (3/4" & 1/2")....comes in handy...

The Park Tool click type torque wrenches are b-directional. I expect most bike specific ones are.

you shouldn't use adapters and try to avoid extensions when using torque wrenches because you may under torque since you use efficiency with those

Since this is your first torque wrench I'd suggest strongly to getting a beam one for several reasons, taking away user error they are the most accurate. They never lose calibration as long as they are not bent, and they are stupid cheap.

Please resist getting a click type torque wrench because when they fail you won't know till you break something and they suck t everything else.


I personally have a few(different units) all the same style and brand which is a CDI dial torque wrench just because I like to see how much pressure is being applied to let off right at the right time.


Last but not least, please understand when a torque wrench says its range is 10 to 100 that you should not use it for the lower end because they are not as accurate in the lower range I think it is somewhere around 20 to 40% less accurate in those ranges. A good rule of thumb which I follow when I buy a torque wrench is I only take into consideration the top 50 percent on a torque wrench's range because under torquing or over torquing one bolt may mean complete failure and that isn't worth the risk to me with the work I do.

Sears has the adapters. bk

try flea markets out I get a lot of my tools there and stupid cheap you just need to know what you you are looking at

What??? If you keep the wrench at 90° to the fastener, it doesn't matter how many adapters or extensions you have.

Thanks- got the 1/4-3/8" adapter. Have to order the set.

Are you actually serious....?