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Old 03-03-05, 02:54 PM
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New parts or new mechanic

I have Kona Fire Mountain (LOVE IT!). I got it in 2000. I do most of my own repairs.

I am having brake and gear problems. Seems no matter how often I replace the cable and wire they just end up sticky (won't shift gears, jumps gears, brake levers don't snap back, etc.)

Considering my bike is going on 5-years, is it just time to replace the brakes and derailers? Or should I replace the mechanic (me )

They are still the original parts:
brakes - TekTro Quartz
derailers - Shimano Deore.

If I could afford it, I'd get a new bike, but finances prohibit it for now.

Thanks
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Old 03-03-05, 03:00 PM
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Do you lube your cables, and if so do you use something suitable for both seasons? That would be winter and July, for those who have never been to Alaska!!! If you keep the controls clean and slick, they should last a good long time.
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Old 03-03-05, 03:03 PM
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well if your in alaska im assuming that your riding in cold, if your lubing your cables with grease stop. USe something like pedros icewax or tri flow. No need to replace the mechanic
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Old 03-03-05, 03:04 PM
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I wouldn't use IceWax in extreme cold. It just gels up inside the housings. TriFlow, FinishLine Century or ProLink would be my choices.
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Old 03-03-05, 03:59 PM
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Sounds like you need to bring it in for a tune up.
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Old 03-04-05, 02:14 AM
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Well, in the winter I try to avoid all lubes. But I actually never lube them in summer either.
Though, I just moved to a warmer part of AK... it is also a heck of a lot rainier. And the last time I changed all my cables it took less than a month before they started acting up.

With all the wet weather here, will lubing them with triflow help?
How do you lube a cable anyways? Just put a few drops here and there as you slide it through?

In anycase... it sounds more like a mechanic problem than a hardware problem (Good thing I still have my day job)

Thanks
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Old 03-04-05, 02:22 AM
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Yes you need to lube

1. Replace the housing
2. Lube the cables and then slide them into the housing
3. Periodically lubricate the cables. You can get creative by removing the housing from the housing stops and sliding them around to get at the cable.

-s
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Old 03-04-05, 02:22 AM
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I'm running PFTE coated Nervz shift cables on both bikes and have just recently inspected them after about a year's use - the teflon is still intact the shifting is as crisp as ever. I just use them and standard bulk roll SIS housing and get these results. For the brakes on my commuter I use Nervz as well with Jagwire PFTE core housing again off the shop's bulk roll - silky smooth no wear issues save for the spots at my Travel Agents where it doesn't matter anyway as it doesn't reach the housing and it's on a pulley (a load the coating wasn't really designed for in the first place.)
Did I mention that the teflon is plenty good enough without external lube?
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Old 03-04-05, 01:39 PM
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This sounds like, to me, a classic case of someone who is not removing the burrs from the housing ends after he cuts them. If you have a dull pair of cutters, you will get the burr that just "grabs" the cable, and cause that sticky feel you are speaking of. Also, be sure to use housing end caps (be sure to get the appropriate size for your housing) on SIS for sure, and recommended for brakes as well. You could put all the lube you want into the housing/on the cables, but it won't solve the problem if it's a burr.

Also, there are some lubes that will actually break down the teflon lining of good housing over time, which will eventually gum up the works. Be carefull what you use, you may be doing more harm than good.

The best setup I found has been a teflon coated cable (I am using the Quality ones) and Shimano SIS or brake bulk housing (teflon lined, of course).

Hope this helps....
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Old 03-04-05, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Ahctogi
This sounds like, to me, a classic case of someone who is not removing the burrs from the housing ends after he cuts them. .
I've found that my Dremel tool with a grinding attachment is great for dressing housing ends
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