Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

stuck bolts on rotor of rim

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

stuck bolts on rotor of rim

Old 09-13-13, 01:34 AM
Senior Member
Thread Starter
CanadianBiker32's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Canada
Posts: 829

Bikes: Maxim, Rocky Mountain, Argon 18, Cervelo S2 Team

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 84 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
stuck bolts on rotor of rim

I like to replace the rotor of disc brake on front wheel on my mountain bike.
2 of the remaining bolts on the rotor. Don't seem to want to come out. Almost stuck and I almost rounded out the bolt too . Almost
How or what other methods/tools/ Can i use to free up these remaining bolts?

Thanks and I rather make this a home repair. thanks again
CanadianBiker32 is offline  
Old 09-13-13, 05:00 AM
Senior Member
dsbrantjr's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 6,118

Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 613 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 17 Times in 17 Posts
You are using the correct tool, right? Many rotors use a T25 Torx driver; using a hex driver will strip out the sockets. Try giving them a good soak with Kroil or PB Blaster and try again with an unworn well-fitting tool. Sometimes a larger driver can be forced/pounded into a stripped socket, or a sacrificial driver can be epoxied in using JB Weld or similar. So-called "easy-out" screw extractors can also be used to remove a stripped fastener.
dsbrantjr is offline  
Old 09-13-13, 05:57 AM
New Orleans
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,793
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
In the future
1)do a metal to metal tap tap tap on fastener-this sorta "breaks up" corrosion galvanic grunge etc
2) Before doing this use some sort of penetrating oil-put it where it has the best chance get to the threads
3) Repeat #1 repeat 2 repeat 1-in all give it 15-30 min for penetrating oil to penetrate
4) Use a hand impact tool $25 or so-well worth it-
5) OPTIONAL for more advanced wrenches- Set it to "tighten" yeah-wrong way-give it a GENTLE GENTLE rap(this is optional but...) HEAVY METAL HAMMER-
6)Set impact to turn CORRECT WAY- get it seated-and Loaded in the right direction-meaning no play-HIT IT HARD-AGAIN AGAIN AGAIN-make you hold it so it is already twisted in the direction you want to go-less likely to round it off

Now that it is rounded-perhaps a hand impact will help-DSB idea-bigger size-good idea-worth a shot-get a hand impact tool-really useful
Never had much luck with easy outs-especially on small fasteners

Can you get at the backside?? spray penetrating oil etc

PS Sometimes you can get VICE GRIPS on the tiny bit of NUB that is left-might help to file some "flats" on it first-sometimes YOU CAN FILE flats-and use a normal wrench-but usually the vice grips work better-

PPS Occasionally putting a bit in drill-and try "drilling" the wrong way-occasionally it will "grab" and screw out-no you don't need a special bit-treaded the other way-helpful but this is a long shot anyway
phoebeisis is offline  
Old 09-13-13, 03:33 PM
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 11,551

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Raleigh Pro, Trek Cycle Cross, Mongoose tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1698 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 23 Times in 20 Posts
The last stripped out rotor bolt i took care of at work was loosened by using a cold chisel. It was held at almost a tangent to the bolt head's outer edge and struck with a hammer in a direction that would rotate the bolt counter clockwise. It took a number of hits and repositioning of the chisel but the bolt did come loose. I used this method because the Dremel cut off fiber wheels were all broken... Otherwise i would have first tried to cut a slot for a screw driver, then failing that the bolt head would have been ground off and the remaining threaded portion drilled out. Andy.
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 09-13-13, 04:47 PM
Senior Member
joejack951's Avatar
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 11,855

Bikes: 2016 Hong Fu FM-079-F, 1984 Trek 660, 2003 Specialized Hardrock, 2004 LOOK KG386i (RIP), 2005 Iron Horse Warrior Expert, 2009 Pedal Force CX1, 2016 Islabikes Beinn 20 (son's)

Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1117 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by phoebeisis View Post
PPS Occasionally putting a bit in drill-and try "drilling" the wrong way-occasionally it will "grab" and screw out-no you don't need a special bit-treaded the other way-helpful but this is a long shot anyway
Right handed drill bits won't even begin to touch an alloy steel fastener when spun in the wrong direction. You can try but all you'll achieve is dulling your drill bits.

To remove a fastener with a stripped head all that's usually required is a drill bit of the appropriate size to drill the head off the fastener. Once the head has popped off the remaining stud can usually be unscrewed by hand or worst case with some pliers. If the stud happens to be stuck due to severe corrosion, then consider left handed drill bits and/or an ez-out. Just be really careful with the latter as they break quite easily at the smaller sizes and nothing but a carbide end mill and a milling machine (or lots of time with a dremel and grinding bit) will get that stub out.
joejack951 is offline  
Old 09-13-13, 05:39 PM
New Orleans
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,793
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
As Andrew suggests-cut a slot in it-then attack with a hand impact.
I don't think it is a good idea to drill or cut the head off
that fastener stripped because it IS STUCK- steel aluminum "corrosion"
if you cut or drill the head off-
EZ outs- AREN'T one bit easy-

Tap the backside of the fastener-metal to metal-sharp raps-and the frontside-use penetrating oil
If you have a torch -or even a lighter- run it thru a few heat cool heat cool cycles-
Make sure you do what you can to break up that corrosion before making your effort on the head-
sometimes a slight impact rap in the wrong direction helps-but be careful with that!
Hand impacts tool cheap-$25 or so-or get a fancy used Snap On for $40 or so-ebay-they have a nice feel in your hand-
phoebeisis is offline  
Old 09-13-13, 05:43 PM
Senior Member
awfulwaffle's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 536

Bikes: Franken-mountain bike, mid-90s Performance TR1000, 1990 Cannondale ST400

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I used a variation of the "cut a slot and use an impact driver" method when getting off a rotor with some stuck bolts while replacing the wheels on frankenbike. I ended up taking my dremel w/ cut off wheel and ever so carefully cut a flat on either side of the screw head. Then, I was able to use the flats to grab a hold of the screws with a pair of vice grips and get em out that way.
awfulwaffle is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.