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Bottom Bracket Loose - what do I need?

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Bottom Bracket Loose - what do I need?

Old 09-13-13, 11:33 PM
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Giga
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Bottom Bracket Loose - what do I need?

I notice some noise from the pedals riding, came home and saw that there was play in the bottom. I can grab the crank arm on one side and wiggle it, and the other side would move too.



I attached a picture of the FSA Tempo crank. I think it's one of those self extracting crank bolts right? I only have a 8mm allen key on my multi tool right now which isn't giving me enough torque to remove the bolts...but once I do, what next?

Or maybe it's not loose and the whole thing needs replacing? What do you guys think?

The bike is a 2011 Felt Z100; it has less than 500 miles on it

Specs:

Crankset: FSA TEMPO Triple, 3-PC, Aluminum, 9 speed 52/42/30T
Bottom Bracket: FSA 68mm w/ Forged Chromoly Square Taper 116mm Spindle

Also - on avg, what would I expect to pay at a LBS to fix this? Assuming it's just loose.
Attached Images
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crank.jpg (103.7 KB, 36 views)

Last edited by Giga; 09-13-13 at 11:39 PM.
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Old 09-14-13, 05:17 AM
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Yes, it's a self extracting system, and yes, you may need a longer handle allen wrench or a small pipe or similar over a shorter one. But it's not always necessary to remove the left crank arm in order to access the cup flats or pins. Google adjust bottom bracket (use square taper instructions) - sheldonbrown.com and parktool.com are considered the best sources. If you have access to the tools needed you can do the adjustment yourself. You don't list your location so I don't know if you have a bike co-op or similar nearby that could help.

A shop will charge whatever it's rate is - under $10 if it's just an adjustment. If you adjust it and can still feel play then it's either a loose fixed cup or a bad BB, which will cost a bit more or quite a bit more, and you may want a shop do the work if you don't have the tools or experience.
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There's no such thing as a routine repair.

Don't tell me what "should" be - either it is, it isn't, or do something about it.

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Old 09-14-13, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by cny-bikeman View Post
But it's not always necessary to remove the left crank arm in order to access the cup flats or pins.
This is true only for a cup-and-cone bottom bracket and I'll bet quite a lot that's not what the OP has. Cartridge bottom brackets (square taper, Octalink and ISIS) require removing the crank arms to fit the installation/removal tool.
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Old 09-14-13, 08:13 AM
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That's true of course - I try to make my posts apply to more than just the OP's circumstance, but given the recent vintage of his bike I should have mentioned that.
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There's no such thing as a routine repair.

Don't tell me what "should" be - either it is, it isn't, or do something about it.

If you think I'm being blunt take it as a compliment - if I thought you were too weak to handle the truth or a strong opinion I would not bother.

Please respect others by taking the time to post clearly so we can answer quickly. All lowercase and multiple typos makes for a hard read. Thanks!
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Old 09-14-13, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Giga View Post
I notice some noise from the pedals riding, came home and saw that there was play in the bottom. I can grab the crank arm on one side and wiggle it, and the other side would move too.



I attached a picture of the FSA Tempo crank. I think it's one of those self extracting crank bolts right? I only have a 8mm allen key on my multi tool right now which isn't giving me enough torque to remove the bolts...but once I do, what next?

Or maybe it's not loose and the whole thing needs replacing? What do you guys think?

The bike is a 2011 Felt Z100; it has less than 500 miles on it

Specs:

Crankset: FSA TEMPO Triple, 3-PC, Aluminum, 9 speed 52/42/30T
Bottom Bracket: FSA 68mm w/ Forged Chromoly Square Taper 116mm Spindle

Also - on avg, what would I expect to pay at a LBS to fix this? Assuming it's just loose.

I bought a 2012 z100 and I had this same issue. It started out small, then as it loosened more, it started to make a click sound with every pedal rotation. Just take it to the LBS; it's a very quick fix, and they should be able to do it on the spot for < $15.00.
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Old 09-14-13, 08:55 AM
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Thanks everyone! Normally I'd work on the bike myself but I didn't have the tools and I needed the bike today so I took it to a new bike shop that just opened up by me. Got it done for only $5! Looks like I found a new go-to LBS
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Old 09-14-13, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by cny-bikeman View Post
Yes, it's a self extracting system, and yes, you may need a longer handle allen wrench or a small pipe or similar over a shorter one. But it's not always necessary to remove the left crank arm in order to access the cup flats or pins. Google adjust bottom bracket (use square taper instructions) - sheldonbrown.com and parktool.com are considered the best sources. If you have access to the tools needed you can do the adjustment yourself. You don't list your location so I don't know if you have a bike co-op or similar nearby that could help.
That's not a self extracting bolt. There is a rubber cover surrounding the bolt head to keep dirt out of the extractor threads which is the black ring you see around the bolt.

Giga: To remove the crank you'll need an 8 mm Allen wrench to remove the bolts on both sides. You'll then need a crank extractor to pull both crank arms off. Next you'll need a bottom bracket extractor to remove the bottom bracket. The most common extractor is a 20 tooth splined tool like the Park BBT-22. If the bottom bracket doesn't have the splines, you'll probably need a BBT-18.

For parts, you are likely to need a new bottom bracket. The old one may be loose but replacement is more likely.

The procedure is well covered in the Park Tools "How to" section on bottom brackets.
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