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Stuck campy bb on older bike

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Stuck campy bb on older bike

Old 09-14-13, 09:48 PM
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Ratherbesailing
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Stuck campy bb on older bike

To be honest I don't know if it's stuck. It's a campagnolo brev(can't remember the rest of the word and I put the crank back on), square taper Italian bb. Al I have used is a bigger crescent wrench on the drive side and tapped it with a hammer but I can't seem to break it loose.
It was creaking which is why I looked into it. Taking the crank off and putting it back on solved that but now I get some rub on the FD if I'm not careful. Campy bb w/ da everything else I'm assuming is that issue.
Do I just need a thinner wrench that is fit so it doesn't fall off or is there a trick to this. Thanks
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Old 09-14-13, 09:50 PM
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I can take a bad picture tonight or better pictures tomorrow. Not sure how picture hungry this side of the forum is
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Old 09-14-13, 10:29 PM
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.....I've serviced many of these, and I have no idea what you're talking about, so yeah,
maybe a photo or two of what is stuck and a general description of the location of the stuckness might help.

If you are trying to remove the crank arm, you need a Campy puller (proprietary sizing).
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Old 09-14-13, 10:41 PM
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A proper BB wrench is always better than an adjustable wrench. A real Campy wrench is the way to go.
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Old 09-14-13, 10:49 PM
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Drive side cup has two flat edges, maybe 1/16 in wide. Can't get a wrench to hold there to torque it loose the other side has six cutouts around the outside but if I understand correctly I must loosen the other side first.
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Old 09-14-13, 10:52 PM
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Yea. I'll just take a pic tomorrow.
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Old 09-14-13, 10:53 PM
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I have a bb wrench. I was afraid going at odd side with the cutouts first was wrong
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Old 09-14-13, 10:58 PM
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just keep hitting it with bigger hammers until it comes out on its own.

please dont I was just joking.
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Old 09-14-13, 11:13 PM
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The large hammer well has run dry. It's on to mallets now.
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Old 09-15-13, 06:18 AM
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Park Tools... http://www.parktool.com/category/bottom-bracket

I think you will want,

http://www.parktool.com/product/lockring-wrench-bbt-7
http://www.parktool.com/product/cran...t-wrench-hcw-4

The first one does the lock ring, you might have to file the tool, and the second one does the fixed cup whilst the pin side fits the adjustable cup.

Plus Gas is also recommended as opposed to WD-40. Don't know what the American equivalents may be. Spend some time, a day or more, letting the Plus Gas do its work.

You do not want to use an adjustable anything. Get the right tool otherwise you will mangle things. The fixed cup will be extremely tight. It gets torqued to that level and then cycling will tighten it further and of course if it is 'old' you may have corrosion problems.

Place the frame on its side on the ground. Fit the tool and hold it in place with the palm of your hand. Then wap the handle of the tool with your big hammer. You will need to check, Sheldon Brown again, as to what thread you are dealing with. In my case, English Raleigh, it is clockwise to undo. Errrr Uhm Errrr. I am sure you will check.

Others may cringe but you will probably have to go a bit animal on it before it submits. It is likely you will think you are trying the wrong way but persist and eventually it will submit. Don't forget the Plus Gas.
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Old 09-15-13, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post

If you are trying to remove the crank arm, you need a Campy puller (proprietary sizing).
Not on square taper ....standard puller & BB tools common in the day.
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Old 09-15-13, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Ratherbesailing View Post
Drive side cup has two flat edges, maybe 1/16 in wide. Can't get a wrench to hold there to torque it loose the other side has six cutouts around the outside but if I understand correctly I must loosen the other side first.
Not quite sure what you are trying to accomplish.

The drive side cup ("fixed cup") is reverse threaded. The adjustable cup is standard thread. If you are trying to remove the bottom bracket, then you first need to remove the cranks with a crank puller. Then remove the adjustable cup lockring, then the cup, axle & bearings, then finally the fixed cup.

How to:
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...e-spindle-type

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...racket-service
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Last edited by Homebrew01; 09-15-13 at 06:34 AM.
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Old 09-15-13, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Ratherbesailing View Post
It was creaking which is why I looked into it. Taking the crank off and putting it back on solved that but now I get some rub on the FD if I'm not careful. Campy bb w/ da everything else I'm assuming is that issue.

What kind of cranks are you using? You may be using cranks whose taper doesn't match your spindle. Campagnolo uses an ISO taper while Shimano and others use the JIS specification. They're similar enough that you can often get mismatching parts installed, but, well, just read Sheldon's take on it:

http://sheldonbrown.com/bbtaper.html
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Old 09-15-13, 10:48 AM
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It indeed is a shimano crank on a campagnolo spindle. Thank you everyone. Particularly fractlebox for the concise advise
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Old 09-15-13, 06:15 PM
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Don't even remove that drive side fixed cup unless you have determined it is bad. Clean out all the old grease, wipe everything clean and look in there with a flashlight. If the race is not pitted, worn badly or otherwise shot, no need to remove it.
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Old 09-15-13, 06:50 PM
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You can use a vice to hold the cup and will have lots of leverage to turn the bike. The caveat is of course that the vise edges may be rounded or sprung slightly. You may have to do something like putting a bench vise in a larger vise.

I read your post to say that you have an Italian bottom bracket, and need to clarify terminology. Campagnolo is of course Italian, but comes in different threads e.g. BSC, Italian, French, and Swiss. English is by far the most common, but not a given. Italian is 36mmx24tpi, English is 1.37x24tpi. Italian is right hand thread both sides, English is left hand thread on drive side. IIRC, this should be on the outside of the cup.
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Old 09-15-13, 10:36 PM
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Ita threaded. Taking the cranks off and putting them back on solved the creaking problem so I might just let it alone.
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Old 09-15-13, 11:16 PM
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If you want to continue using your bottom bracket will will need to do some routine service on the bottom bracket or eventually the races will become brindled and fail. I would necessarily purchase the BB tools in space #12 . The first I don't think will fit the lockring of a Campagnolo BB and second isn't necessary unless you need to replace the drive side BB cup (plus an Italian BB can come loose if it's not tightened to spec, so once it's tight it's best to leave it that way). Assuming you are able to pull the crank arms, I would simply buy a BB spanner http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-HCW-...spanner+wrench.


All you need do is pull the crank arms, remove the none drive side (lockring and cup), pull the spindle and bearings, clean them up/ re-grease and re-assemble; you may want a pin spanner of sorts to adjust the per-load on the non-drive side cup (the one with the two holes), but anything that will fit will work (I've used drill bits with success before, but I prefer a Park pin spanner (the green one) http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-SPA-...et+pin+spanner


or one of the tools before, which has both the drive side wrench and pins for the none side http://www.parktool.com/product/cran...t-wrench-hcw-4

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z wrench.jpg (27.0 KB, 29 views)
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Last edited by onespeedbiker; 09-15-13 at 11:20 PM.
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