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Bottom bracket
Please, no rips on bike quality. 1yr old schwinn trailway bike. Not my bike. Bottom bracket is loose. Or specifically, the crank axle feels loose thru the bottom bracket. I took off pedal crank arm. Took off lock ring on side opposite chain ring. The "cone" nut is shaped like a "double D". It has approx 16mm flats. I do not have the special wrench a mechanic might use to remove the cone. I do have 2 separate 16mm wrenches and I am using both to try and loosen the cone nut. It will not budge. Should this cone turn with no lock ring installed? Sorry if I refer to this adjustable nut as a "cone". Since I cannot remove it, I cannot see beneath it so I do not know for sure if I have a caged bearing or sealed bearing.
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The piece you are trying to turn is most likely reverse threaded. On cheap one piece cranks you should be able to get away with using a 16mm open end wrench on the flats...its not ideal but will do in a pinch. If the fixed cup is truly seized then you will either need to spend the $15-$20 on the proper tool (Park makes one) or have a bike shop do it for you. Try turning in the other direction first though.
-j |
Park hcw-11 tool. Bottom bracket bearing wrench.
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Originally Posted by joe_mn
(Post 16105543)
Please, no rips on bike quality. 1yr old schwinn trailway bike. Not my bike. Bottom bracket is loose. Or specifically, the crank axle feels loose thru the bottom bracket. I took off pedal crank arm. Took off lock ring on side opposite chain ring. The "cone" nut is shaped like a "double D". It has approx 16mm flats. I do not have the special wrench a mechanic might use to remove the cone. I do have 2 separate 16mm wrenches and I am using both to try and loosen the cone nut. It will not budge. Should this cone turn with no lock ring installed? Sorry if I refer to this adjustable nut as a "cone". Since I cannot remove it, I cannot see beneath it so I do not know for sure if I have a caged bearing or sealed bearing.
#1 : Your bike has 3-piece cranks, not old-style one-piece cranks. #2 : if you removed a crank arm without special tools, it was not installed tightly enough. #3 : I agree that the Park HCW-11 wrench will turn that cone. If it's on the left side of the bike, it should be right-hand thread. |
Originally Posted by joe_mn
(Post 16105543)
Please, no rips on bike quality. 1yr old schwinn trailway bike. Not my bike. Bottom bracket is loose. Or specifically, the crank axle feels loose thru the bottom bracket. I took off pedal crank arm. Took off lock ring on side opposite chain ring. The "cone" nut is shaped like a "double D". It has approx 16mm flats. I do not have the special wrench a mechanic might use to remove the cone. I do have 2 separate 16mm wrenches and I am using both to try and loosen the cone nut. It will not budge. Should this cone turn with no lock ring installed? Sorry if I refer to this adjustable nut as a "cone". Since I cannot remove it, I cannot see beneath it so I do not know for sure if I have a caged bearing or sealed bearing.
A lot of them (and I cannot say for certain yours is one) have something called a "semi sealed unit BB" which is apparently installed on the assembly line with power tools, and can be very difficult to remove without proper tools. On the outside, it looks like a regular loose ball BB unit, but it is virtually impossible to service and readjust so that it will work properly because it is very difficult to adjust the bearing play upon reassembly. If that is what you have, the standard fix is to replace it with a new sealed unit BB of the proper length. Again, this can be very hard to do, given the tools you've listed as available to you. |
Schwinn has warranty on parts, not labor. Actually, a $15 labor spiff.
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