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Bottom Bracket stripped

Old 03-05-05, 11:26 PM
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UNHBiker
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Bottom Bracket stripped

I apologize in advance for any confusion with my terminology, I'm by no means a bike wiz. Anyways, I have a I have a Shimano 105 bottom bracket that is being very stubborn. I have no problem disassembling the crank from the bottom bracket but the bb from the frame is another matter. I have the correct tool however I seem to be stripping it while trying to take it apart. The threads, if they're called that, that connects to the actual bottom bracket tool have become stripped, specifically the drive side. The non-drive side I was able to take apart without too much fuss but still managed to strip it when doing it. The drive side is stripped so badly that it is nearly impossible to remove. I'm doing this in the first place to replace the bottom bracket because of such problems however I would appreciate any advice to get this bottom bracket off without tearing all the skin off of my knuckles.

Also, how can I prevent this from happening again, I try to keep the tool fully connected to the bottom bracket however it manages to slip out if I don't put enough inward force into it. I'm using the tool that was recommended by shimano to use with this bottom bracket.

thx,
Dave
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Old 03-06-05, 06:33 AM
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531Aussie
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STOP!! You could be wrecking your frame.

Most bottom brackets are "English", which means the drive side has a left-handed thread, so you've gotta turn it clockwise to undo it.

BUT, you might have another type of bottom bracket (Italian, or whatever), so, either get someone to look at it, or measure the width of your frame's bottom bracket shell and let us know.

Also, what sort of frame is it?
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Old 03-06-05, 07:57 AM
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Bottom brackets can be hard to remove.

The first thing is to be sure you are going the correct way. Most bikes have English thread bottom brackets that have a left hand thread on the drive side. A few bikes have Italian thread bottom brackets that have a conventional right hand thread on both sides. The easiest way to tell is to measure the width of the frame's bottom bracket shell. Italian bottom brackets have a shell that is 70mm wide. English thread bottom brackets will be either 68 or 73mm wide.

A genuine Shimano bottom bracket tool makes removing a stubborn bottom bracket much easier. The Park tool stands much farther out from the bottom bracket and is much more difficult to hold steady while you torque on it. The result is that it tips and strips out the teeth. I've had stubborn bottom brackets that laughed at a Park tool easily succumb to the genuine Shimano equivlent.

I've also had good results by chucking my Park bottom bracket tool vertically in a bench vise. Then I have a helper assist me in threading the whole frame onto the tool. Think it through to be sure you are twisting the frame the correct way and give it a turn. Not only has this never failed me, it's never even been difficult.

Good luck.
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Old 03-06-05, 09:46 AM
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Ok....what type of bottom bracket is it? Does it have a square taper spindle or an octalink type spindle? What tool are you using? Part number please....

It the threads are stripping are you stripping the crankarm threads or the internal splins in the BB cartridge?
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Old 03-06-05, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by miamijim
Ok....what type of bottom bracket is it? Does it have a square taper spindle or an octalink type spindle? What tool are you using? Part number please....

It the threads are stripping are you stripping the crankarm threads or the internal splins in the BB cartridge?
The way I read it' it's a cartridge, and he is stripping out the splines for the removal tool.He needs to lock the tool to the BB(assuming there is even enough spline left) and then turn it the correct way depending on the BB threading.
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Old 03-06-05, 10:04 AM
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Try this. Find a bolt that will thread into were the crank arm bolt goes. Remember the bolt has to be long enough to reach the end of the B/B tool. Place a washer on the bolt insert it threw the B/B tool and thread into the B/B tightly. Then place a wrench or a good adjustable one. On the end of B/B tool. This does work. It gives you a very tight placement of B/B tool up against the splines of the B/B.

Maybe some else can explain What I'm talking about.
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