Paul And Pista

A potentially stupid question: do I really need a chain whip to remove or install a cog when I already have a chain and cranks which I could probably use to exert a greater force than I could exert with just the whip?

isotopesope

yes, you need one. especially to get the cog off.

peripatetic

Actually, I just did this yesterday. Couldn't get the chain whip to work, maybe since I had a larger (16T) cog, so I used the suggestion in here (check out the actual photo, too):

https://www.bikeschool.com/technical-board/messages/9489.htm

It worked like a charm. BUT JUST MAKE SURE THAT YOU TURN THE WHEEL IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION--I had the bike flipped and ended up tightening the cog onto the hub so hard that I fragged up the cog's threading. Make sure that you turn the wheel forward (clockwise), as it says in the directions.

The chain whip definitely helped with tightening the cog, though.

fixedpip

You only really need on to remove a cog - or a good LBS

Whips makes life so much easier than having to use the method described above or back pedalling the bike until it pops off. With a whip you generally don't have to dodgy a flying cog.

That said, if your cog is jammed on though, it may still take some work to shift it, even with a whip (esp if Loctite is involved).

Can get both 3/32" and 1/8" pitch whips pretty cheaply. Wheels Manufacturing 1/8" whip which is good for both is around 20 bones:
https://www.businesscycles.com/trpart.htm#1/8whip

lala

Won't this f-up your BB shell?

Paul And Pista

That's what I was thinking.

My plan otherwise was to just take off the lockring, put the wheel back on, get on the bike and try to carefully pedal backwards while holding on to a railing or some such to keep in place.

It's not that the $20 is especially steep, I just thought there'd be an easy way around it. As long as it won't damage my hub or the cog, I'm willing to give my method a shot.

isotopesope

you could certainly give it a try, but i personally think tools are investments, not just a cost. i'm sure this won't be your last cog swap or install. plus, you may need to be moving to be able to apply enough force to unscrew your cog, which would be a little un-nerving while riding. brakes or not.

peripatetic

I didn't have any problems with this, and it merely LOOSENED the cog. The chain actually wrapped around the spindle, NOT the BB shell, and it took a small turn to loosen it. The point is that you're using the wheel as your turning handle, which gives you a lot of leverage, so you don't have to apply as much raw strength. I kind of applied force, then relaxed a little bit, then applied a bit more force. The cog didn't fly off at all, just loosened. Oh yeah, and I did it with the bike upside down, since I don't have a stand.

I think 20 bucks for a tool that only serves one purpose is kind of steep myself. But if it works well, and you change the cogs a lot, then try it. Also, as I mentioned before, the larger the cog, the less effective the whip tool--it just doesn't get onto enough teeth. I read this on another thread, and then experienced the same problem.

Paul And Pista

That's very true - point taken.

I am, however, a little concerned that you are doubting my enormous leg strength.

auroch

i used to have a chain whip & broke it.
so know I only used the old school track method.

jeff

Rev.Chuck

The other thing with track cogs is that they are often 1/8 and a standard, from the bike shop, whip will have a 3/32 chain on it. I use a piece of bar stock with a 1/8 chain pinned on it for my track whip. i think the whip is easier and you have to take the wheel off the bike anyway.

isotopesope

hahaha maybe you should just flex and scare it off.

BostonFixed

Yea, it could, but just put an old rag under the chain, protecting the BB shell. Not a problem.

crusty_pedals

hey, i know it costs money, but if you're going to be switching out cogs or what not, and don't want to use a chain whip, try the new miche system. it's one piece that screws on to the hub, then a cog fits onto that like a cassette or something. so you just undo the lock ring, slide the cog on or off, tighten the lock ring, and you're done. no more chainwhips. if i understand it right.

phantomcow2

I just use an old chain, step on the end or clamp it down and go. Never had an issue

Sweetwater

I'll toss my hat in the ring in favor of chain whips. I change cassettes pretty frequently it goes SO smoothly with the right tool. And one trip to the emergency room for my maintenance fubars was enough for me (and my wife ).

capwater

For years I used an old length of chain. Never had a problem, just grasp it with a visegrip. That being said, I recently bought a chain whip because I realized that they aren't all that exspensive. Tools are investments and as a former auto mechanic I can attest that good tools are worth the cash. Either buy the tool or pay the guy with the tool. I agree with Sweetwater, I have plenty of bikes and extra wheels so I'm always swapping cassettes around so it's handy to have.

Raiyn

Not with one of these.

auroch

the old school track method requires one to carry one
less heavy tool on the road & provides more torque
for us svelte people.

oh and that miche spline system is weak. as the
cog & spline get worn it introduces "play," and then
good luck getting the spline off. (that's my
experience anyways).

jeff

i think this thread belongs back in the fixie forum.
changing cassettes on a gearie vs a cog on a fixie is
a very different task.

MichaelW

The Pamir Hypercracker is out of production but someone does make a similar tool. What is it called?

Rowan

While agreed about the fixie nature of the thread, the answer to MichaelW"s query may be:

The J. A. Stein Mini Cassette Lock.

It cost me AUD$69 or thereabouts back in October. It's very small, very well made, but... I have yet to test it since going to an Aerohead OC rear wheel on the tourer!