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Changing from bar end shifters to brifters

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Changing from bar end shifters to brifters

Old 10-22-13, 02:08 AM
  #26  
MichaelW
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Your current system solves a lot of problems that will be created by an upgrade to Shimano 9spd STI shifters.
I have Tiagra 9 on my tourer. Tiagra is now 10 which is bad news. You have to go down the range to Sora to use 9spd.
My LX cranks are shifted by a Tiagra triple mech, you need to pick the mech with care, some interfere with the chainstay when lowered for the LX rigs. You cant use an MTB front mech with STI road shifters

The cable routing for STI is a bit troublesome for barbag integration but it works. You need to have a lot of cable flapping around. Pick your barbag with care, a narrower one to avoid a clash. I prefer Rixen and Kaul/Ortleib clamp.
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Old 10-22-13, 06:42 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by MichaelW View Post
Your current system solves a lot of problems that will be created by an upgrade to Shimano 9spd STI shifters.
I have Tiagra 9 on my tourer. Tiagra is now 10 which is bad news. You have to go down the range to Sora to use 9spd.
The new Sora 9 is pretty much the same as old Tiagra 9, so there's no sacrifice in quality there.

My LX cranks are shifted by a Tiagra triple mech, you need to pick the mech with care, some interfere with the chainstay when lowered for the LX rigs. You cant use an MTB front mech with STI road shifters

The cable routing for STI is a bit troublesome for barbag integration but it works. You need to have a lot of cable flapping around. Pick your barbag with care, a narrower one to avoid a clash. I prefer Rixen and Kaul/Ortleib clamp.
Another problem I've had with mixing Deore cranks and road FDs is that sometimes the FD cage can't move far enough outward to reach the big ring. Some people seem to have no problems, so it probably depends on the specific crank and FD.

On cranks where the big ring is <50T, interference between the FD clamp and bottle cage bosses can also be a problem. (I can't use a 48T ring on my crappy Nashbar touring frame for this reason, and my FD just barely clears the lower boss with a 50T Tiagra triple). With mountain FDs, you have the option of going for a low-clamp or high-clamp model to resolve issues like this, but not with road FDs.
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Old 10-22-13, 12:11 PM
  #28  
bent-not-broken
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Originally Posted by xpetes View Post
By the way, my only reason for saying I wanted both cables under the handelbar tape was to insure the handlebar bag would work.
If this is true the easiest and best solution is to run the cables under the bar tape as several have suggested. I have two bikes set up this way.
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Old 10-22-13, 12:25 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by bent-not-broken View Post
If this is true the easiest and best solution is to run the cables under the bar tape as several have suggested. I have two bikes set up this way.
it certainly is the cheapest as at most it will cost you some new cables, housing and bar tape...


as mentioned some people have had good luck with using a "noodle" from V brakes to put the cables at a downward angle


others have just found the right bag that could deal with it.
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Old 10-22-13, 11:42 PM
  #30  
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So complicated, just buy new sora groupo problem solve dude also come in black colour.
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Old 10-24-13, 12:42 AM
  #31  
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I use a VO decaleur and a front bag on a rack with bar end shifters. I don't have cable routing issues with the bag, the decaleur provides a bit of a stand-off.
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