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old Campy brake pad change

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old Campy brake pad change

Old 10-18-13, 05:13 PM
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old Campy brake pad change

How do I get the old pad out and the new pad in to a 1970's Campagnolo Record brake shoe, without destroying the pad or marring the shoe? (Kool Stop makes pads.) Or should I give up and replace it with a modern type?
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Old 10-18-13, 05:21 PM
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You should be able to press the pad out ,,
jigs and fixtures :
Might have to get something you can bolt through to bolt the brake shoe/holder on it.
say a piece of aluminum angle stock, drill a hole in it put the bolt through and tighten it..

then clamp the other side in a bench vise.

then there can be force applied from 1 side, to push the pad out without damaging the holder ..
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Old 10-18-13, 05:39 PM
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I don't know why you'd want to remove a pad without damaging it. If it's OK leave it in place, if it's worn or dried it's headed for the trash. I routinely remove pads of this type by sliding a dull screwdriver (actually an old oyster knife) under the pad and popping it out.

To insert new shoes, soak them in hot tap water for a minute or two to soften them, then slide them in. A bit of spit on the track makes an excellent lube, and dries to keep them in place.

If you must slide out the old inserts or can't slide in the replacements, bolt the shoe to a piece of steel angle stock, and put it in a vise. Then you can push out the pad with a wooden dowel rod or hammer handle.
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Old 10-18-13, 07:32 PM
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Thanks for the ideas. The shoes are 37 years old and have been outgassing in Phoenix for 35 of those, they need to go.
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Old 10-18-13, 07:35 PM
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By all means replace them. But why did you want to get them out non-destructively?
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Old 10-18-13, 07:41 PM
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I always just clamped the shoes' bolts in the vice jaws with a shop rag (to protect the threads). Then hammer out the pads with a punch and hammer. To insert i use the vice as a press. Windex or spit makes a good lube as others said. After pressing in the pad i reposition the shoe/pad in the vice so the jaws squeeze the pad face and bolt end to insure the pad is fully seated in the shoe's base. Andy.
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Old 10-18-13, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
By all means replace them. But why did you want to get them out non-destructively?
I don't care about the pad, was worried about marring the shoe.
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Old 10-18-13, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth Lefty View Post
I don't care about the pad, was worried about marring the shoe.
Now I see. OK if you use a dull screwdriver as I suggested, you won't have any problem. The worst case scenario, you jam a sharp edged screwdriver and scratch the holder, it'll be on the inside where the replacement shoe will cover it.
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Old 10-19-13, 03:30 AM
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You can put newer brake pad holders in. You have to bore out the arm a bit to get them to fit. I retrofit all of mine. Saves a little weight, easier to adjust & the modern compounds are much better.
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Old 10-19-13, 06:24 AM
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Ribble sells Veloce silver brake sets for $36.29. If you replace the old with the modern, you will, at least for a while, avoid future pad change headaches, for not much more cost than pad replacements.
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Old 10-19-13, 11:54 AM
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I built a "jig" for doing this very job. Very simple. Two small blocks of hard wood. Used in a bench vise to press the old out, and the new pads in. It's hard to describe, and probably tough to get pics of it while working but if you'd like to see it I can take some pics.
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Old 10-19-13, 12:07 PM
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Here's a shop tool for the job. The insert is placed in the yellow support, and the holder pushed across by the plunger acting on the mounting bolt. The yellow shoe holder, flips for pushing in or out, and on this model turns 90° for the longer mtn inserts.

It's handy for shops that do lots of shoe replacements, but serious overkill for the home mechanic.
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Old 10-19-13, 12:12 PM
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Took me a couple of decades to realize that instead of using a screwdriver to pry the pad from the closed end of the shoe toward the open end, I could use the screw driver to pry under the pad from the open end and work the length of it out of the shoes beveled sides.
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Old 11-22-13, 07:42 PM
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Hey look, the problem worked itself out! Fortunately I caught this one before catastrophe.

I sure have done a lot of dumb things so far with this bike. I think my next f-up will need to involve the freewheel, which is ratcheting properly maybe 7/8 of the time. Or the very new tire (only a few hundred miles tops) that is delaminating.


Dumb again by Darth Lefty, on Flickr
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Old 11-22-13, 08:26 PM
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^^ ooopsies !! Good thing you weren't going downhill at 40 mph when you noticed !
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Old 11-22-13, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Blue Belly View Post
You can put newer brake pad holders in. You have to bore out the arm a bit to get them to fit. I retrofit all of mine. Saves a little weight, easier to adjust & the modern compounds are much better.
What method do you use to bore the arm?
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Old 11-23-13, 01:56 AM
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Put on Kool Stop Continentals, instead, worry about new pads to go in the Campag shoes later.

Kool Stop makes functionally identical pad inserts as well..
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Old 11-23-13, 03:13 AM
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Originally Posted by tanguy frame View Post
What method do you use to bore the arm?
You can use a dremel or a die grinder with some type of cutting bit. I remove just enough where the holder fits & moves freely.
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Old 11-23-13, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth Lefty View Post
Hey look, the problem worked itself out! Fortunately I caught this one before catastrophe.

I sure have done a lot of dumb things so far with this bike. I think my next f-up will need to involve the freewheel, which is ratcheting properly maybe 7/8 of the time. Or the very new tire (only a few hundred miles tops) that is delaminating.


Dumb again by Darth Lefty, on Flickr
If you want to get rid of those obsolete pad holders and upgrade to something new and spiffy, let me know. I'd be glad to take them off your hands.

By the way, is that the particular tire that is delaminating? Not sure if this might have anything to do with your problem, but that tire is mounted backwards. The tread on those Paselas is directional, I believe. Flip your wheel around and re-locate your skewer. If you've done the same on the back, nothing for it but to remove the tire and flip it.

Last edited by rootboy; 11-23-13 at 09:02 PM.
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Old 11-23-13, 08:59 PM
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And PLEASE do not grind on the arms of those beautiful early 70s brake calipers.
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Old 11-23-13, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by rootboy View Post
By the way, is that the particular tire that is delaminating?
No, that must have gotten turned around... That's my story anyhow. The problem is in the rear. Photo later.
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Old 11-24-13, 08:53 AM
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FWIW Darth, here are the little tools I made with which to push out Campy brake blocks. And push in new ones. Used in a bench vise. Not all that self-explanatory but you get the idea. Brake shoe threaded stud is held in the hole and the other tool with the notch cut in it is used to push the block out, etc.

Last edited by rootboy; 11-24-13 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 11-24-13, 10:35 AM
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I never had any problems with just holding the pad holder at the sides and at the threaded mounting bolt with the nut on and using an edge if my work bench to push down and slide off the pads.... It helps a bit if you flex and move the old pad while its still installed on the holder to kinda break off any bond it has on the holders..... Done this to remove even the oldest, crustiest NR pads to remove them with no problems... I think it actually helps if the pads are quite old as they kinda shrink as they dry out from age.....
I just reverse the process to install new ones.
Never really had to use any tools except a small rubber mallet to completely seat in the new pads when the do hang up in those couple of mms before sliding completely in.

Last edited by Chombi; 11-24-13 at 10:40 AM.
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