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Fuji Altamira headset

Old 10-18-13, 05:54 PM
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Miller2
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Fuji Altamira headset

When I take off the stem obviously I loosen the top cap bolt but not the compression bolt in the headset, however the top of the head tube never sits flush and tight against the base of the bearing cap. If I loosen the compression bolt to much the whole assembly falls into the head tube. How do I get this to snug up nice and tight with no play?
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Old 10-18-13, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Miller2 View Post
When I take off the stem obviously I loosen the top cap bolt but not the compression bolt in the headset, however the top of the head tube never sits flush and tight against the base of the bearing cap. If I loosen the compression bolt to much the whole assembly falls into the head tube. How do I get this to snug up nice and tight with no play?
I think you need to read/view some tutorials on threadless headset adjustment. The top cap bolt IS the compression bolt.

Read a few tutorials, then tackle your headset fresh. If you still have problems, come back and describe it using standard terms as in this drawing.

As you work on this, keep these 2 fundamental things in mind.

1- the steerer tube has to end below the top of the stem & spacer stack, so the top cap can push down on them without bottoming against the steerer.
2- the stem has to be loosened before any adjustment can be done, otherwise it won't slide down as the top cap pushes on it.

I hope this helps.
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Old 10-18-13, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
I think you need to read/view some tutorials on threadless headset adjustment. The top cap bolt IS the compression bolt.

Read a few tutorials, then tackle your headset fresh. If you still have problems, come back and describe it using standard terms as in this drawing.

As you work on this, keep these 2 fundamental things in mind.

1- the steerer tube has to end below the top of the stem & spacer stack, so the top cap can push down on them without bottoming against the steerer.
2- the stem has to be loosened before any adjustment can be done, otherwise it won't slide down as the top cap pushes on it.

I hope this helps.
Thanks...I understand the fundamentals however the drawing you linked to does not appear to be the same as what I have.

When the spacers are on, the top of the steerer tube is below the top of the spacer stack. I cant get what I guess is the dust cover to sit flush against the top of the head tube.

Last edited by Miller2; 10-18-13 at 07:42 PM.
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Old 10-18-13, 07:47 PM
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Miller2 Is the silver "washer like' piece part of the pressure plug? Are the steerer spacers that should extend above the steerer (and allow the top cap to press against) missing?

A common problem with internal expanding pressure plug (as compared to star nuts) is that they can slip and get pulled up by the top cap's draw bolt. Andy.
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Old 10-18-13, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Miller2 View Post
....
When the spacers are on, the top of the steerer tube is below the top of the spacer stack. I cant get what I guess is the dust cover to sit flush against the top of the head tube.
You're referring to the expansion plug that replaces the star nut used on the earlier versions (steel forks era). The plug doesn't have to be perfectly flush with the top of the fork, but it now becomes the top, so the spacer stack has to extend above the top of the plug's upper edge.

If you want to loosen or move the plug, you use a hex key that fits the plug's head. Loosen, push down and tighten. It doesn't have to be super tight, only tight enough that the top cap bolt won't pull it up when you go to compress the headset.
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Old 10-18-13, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
Miller2 Is the silver "washer like' piece part of the pressure plug? Are the steerer spacers that should extend above the steerer (and allow the top cap to press against) missing?

A common problem with internal expanding pressure plug (as compared to star nuts) is that they can slip and get pulled up by the top cap's draw bolt. Andy.
Yep the silver "washer" is part of the plug. Spacers just aren't on in the pic.
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Old 10-18-13, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
You're referring to the expansion plug that replaces the star nut used on the earlier versions (steel forks era). The plug doesn't have to be perfectly flush with the top of the fork, but it now becomes the top, so the spacer stack has to extend above the top of the plug's upper edge.

If you want to loosen or move the plug, you use a hex key that fits the plug's head. Loosen, push down and tighten. It doesn't have to be super tight, only tight enough that the top cap bolt won't pull it up when you go to compress the headset.
I may not be explaining myself properly. The dust cap that says oval on it won't compress against the top of the fork. It has play in it and I can't get it to seat properly even after both nuts are tightened.
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Old 10-18-13, 09:27 PM
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Miller2- If by "the dust cap that says Oval on it" you are talking about what we know as the top cap or the compression cap then it shouldn't be touching the end of the steerer or the compression plug in the steerer's end. If this cap did touch the steerer end then it couldn't draw up the bearing slop and effect a proper bearing adjustment. The top caps only (repeat ONLY) function is to draw up bearing slop and provides a slight bearing preload. Once this is done the stem pinch bolts are tightened, freezing this pre load/adjustment in place. In fact after the stem is tightened in place this cap could be removed and left home. The stem's pinch bolts will do the job of holding all in place. So don't worry about the top cap seating on the spacers AS LONG AS IT does the job of pulling the stem tight and preloading the headset bearings.

Maybe another's description of this will make sense... Andy.
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Old 10-19-13, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
Miller2- If by "the dust cap that says Oval on it" you are talking about what we know as the top cap or the compression cap then it shouldn't be touching the end of the steerer or the compression plug in the steerer's end. If this cap did touch the steerer end then it couldn't draw up the bearing slop and effect a proper bearing adjustment. The top caps only (repeat ONLY) function is to draw up bearing slop and provides a slight bearing preload. Once this is done the stem pinch bolts are tightened, freezing this pre load/adjustment in place. In fact after the stem is tightened in place this cap could be removed and left home. The stem's pinch bolts will do the job of holding all in place. So don't worry about the top cap seating on the spacers AS LONG AS IT does the job of pulling the stem tight and preloading the headset bearings.

Maybe another's description of this will make sense... Andy.
No no.......at the base of the spacer stack you can clearly see the word OVAL. That large cone shaped spacer that site on top of the head tube isnt seated flush with the head tube/cartridge bearing. There is fore/aft play in it. Im not at all talking about the top cap. Maybe this photo will help:



Yes I know there is a rubber gasket sticking out in that photo. It's not when I try to get it to sit flush.
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Old 10-19-13, 09:57 AM
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I suspect that a baring may be inverted, the centering cone missing or some other factor within the bearing itself that you messed up. Take it apart completely and put it together step by step, confirming that parts are right, in sequnce and that the bearing works and is secure with hand pressure. Then you can mount the top cap and spacer stack and adjust it.
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Old 10-19-13, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
I suspect that a baring may be inverted, the centering cone missing or some other factor within the bearing itself that you messed up. Take it apart completely and put it together step by step, confirming that parts are right, in sequnce and that the bearing works and is secure with hand pressure. Then you can mount the top cap and spacer stack and adjust it.
thanks for the help. I just took it to the shop and they put 1 more spacer on top then it snugged up nice. Not sure why it needed another spacer as it had been fine all along with what was there.....go figure.
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Old 10-19-13, 01:15 PM
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Suspect that the real problem might have been that the expansion plug was loose, so instead of compressing the headset, tightening the top cap bolt was simply pulling the plug up.

Or the plug was tight, but higher, as shown in the photo, compared to the original position fully down against the top of the steerer tube. The raised plugs rim effectively lengthened the steerer so the top cap beached out on it, and another spacer was needed.

At the risk of offending you, this was a consequence of applying paint by numbers knowledge where the basics were not fully understood. If you truly understood how these systems work, you could have doped out the problem yourself.
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Old 10-19-13, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
Suspect that the real problem might have been that the expansion plug was loose, so instead of compressing the headset, tightening the top cap bolt was simply pulling the plug up.

Or the plug was tight, but higher, as shown in the photo, compared to the original position fully down against the top of the steerer tube. The raised plugs rim effectively lengthened the steerer so the top cap beached out on it, and another spacer was needed.

At the risk of offending you, this was a consequence of applying paint by numbers knowledge where the basics were not fully understood. If you truly understood how these systems work, you could have doped out the problem yourself.
Not offended. I'm not mister mechanical and I know it. I have a better understanding now.
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