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Campagnolo 10 spd right shifter rebuild question

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Campagnolo 10 spd right shifter rebuild question

Old 10-22-13, 12:41 PM
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South Carolina Ed
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Campagnolo 10 spd right shifter rebuild question

I just replaced a couple broken parts and have reassembled an 2007 "Ultra 10" right shifter per the YouTube videos. I haven't remounted it on the handlebar yet.

When I downshift with the thumb button I get 9 distinct clicks but only 7 on the upshift with the paddle. Are the missing 2 clicks just because the cable's not connected and under tension from RD spring or have I done something wrong?

Thanks, Ed
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Old 10-22-13, 03:49 PM
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stick a cable in it and pull on it while you click through and see if you get those 2 clicks back.

-j
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Old 10-23-13, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Greenfieldja View Post
stick a cable in it and pull on it while you click through and see if you get those 2 clicks back.

-j
That would be too obvious:-) Mebad...thanks
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Old 10-23-13, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by sced View Post
That would be too obvious:-) Mebad...thanks
My response was not intended to be snyde or condecending and I hope yours was not as well, but your original post expressed concern over how a part works that you were operating in a manner other than the manufacturers intentions. The part is designed to be mounted and then cable operated...of course there are springs and other mechanisms inside that should function normally when the levers are pressed but "should" is conditional...there is no guarantee that the part will always function correctly when operated in this manner (not mounted and no cable). If one expressed that they mounted the lever and installed a cable and utilized the levers and the associated clicks were not happening that would give a more relevant basis to begin troubleshooting/commenting. The idea shared, to put a cable in it and check, was to help baseline what is going on with the part with what you are doing to it and what the manufacturer intends to be done with it.

So, with all that out of the way...after putting a cable in it what did you find?

-j
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Old 10-23-13, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Greenfieldja View Post
My response was not intended to be snyde or condecending and I hope yours was not as well, but your original post expressed concern over how a part works that you were operating in a manner other than the manufacturers intentions. The part is designed to be mounted and then cable operated...of course there are springs and other mechanisms inside that should function normally when the levers are pressed but "should" is conditional...there is no guarantee that the part will always function correctly when operated in this manner (not mounted and no cable). If one expressed that they mounted the lever and installed a cable and utilized the levers and the associated clicks were not happening that would give a more relevant basis to begin troubleshooting/commenting. The idea shared, to put a cable in it and check, was to help baseline what is going on with the part with what you are doing to it and what the manufacturer intends to be done with it.

So, with all that out of the way...after putting a cable in it what did you find?

-j
I was laughing at myself for my lack of common sense - did as you suggested and those 2 clicks magically appeared...Thanks (genuinely)!

I must say that for something so costly to buy the shifter seems a bit cheesy and destined to fail.
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Old 10-23-13, 08:44 AM
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Glad it worked out for you...hopefully your rebuild will last you many miles. If your levers use "g" springs you may want to stock up on a couple of sets and purchase a spare carier (the part they mount in), as Campy spare parts availability seem to be slowly drying up.

-j
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Old 10-23-13, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Greenfieldja View Post
Glad it worked out for you...hopefully your rebuild will last you many miles. If your levers use "g" springs you may want to stock up on a couple of sets and purchase a spare carier (the part they mount in), as Campy spare parts availability seem to be slowly drying up.

-j
The carrier is one of the parts that broke - the prong that sticks out. Mine is some kind of plastic (2007 Record). Is there a metal one from a lower groupset that will work and last longer?

Also, the replacement carrier that I bought from Niagara came with a new washer and "g" springs, though the original ones look fine - ok to reuse?
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Old 10-23-13, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by sced View Post
The carrier is one of the parts that broke - the prong that sticks out. Mine is some kind of plastic (2007 Record). Is there a metal one from a lower groupset that will work and last longer?
Yes.

Also, the replacement carrier that I bought from Niagara came with a new washer and "g" springs, though the original ones look fine - ok to reuse?
It depends what your time is worth. If disconnecting your right cables, unwrapping the bar, rebuilding the shifter, re-wrapping the bar, and adjusting brake + derailleur is worth less than the $5.50 a pair of G-springs cost from Niagara (in a convenient 4-pack for $10.72) you should re-use the parts. Otherwise you should replace the G-springs to maximize the interval to the next rebuild.
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Old 10-23-13, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Drew Eckhardt View Post
Yes.
Could you point me towards one? I found this but it does not look the same. Thanks!
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...6-record-ultra

What I bought.
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...spring-carrier
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Old 10-23-13, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by sced View Post
The carrier is one of the parts that broke - the prong that sticks out. Mine is some kind of plastic (2007 Record). Is there a metal one from a lower groupset that will work and last longer?

Also, the replacement carrier that I bought from Niagara came with a new washer and "g" springs, though the original ones look fine - ok to reuse?

Previous discussions that I have had about the carrier have indicated that the Record plastic one is actually less prone to breaking than the metal one. I would agree with anyone that thinks this is counter-intuitive but everyone that i have spoken with says go with the plastic one. Perhaps the metal one is cast and does not handle the rigors of repetitive shifting too well....don't know first hand as I have not had to do a rebuild yet...but I have an extra plastic one and a set of g springs in my spare parts kit for when the need arises.

My understanding is that campagnolo added reinforcement to the areas that were commonly breaking on the later version of the spring carrier.

If you are cutting/installing new housing and new cables just a note that you should cut the housing loop from the chainstay to the rear derailleur on the long side...what I found to be a normal loop for 6/7/8 speed systems is too tight a loop for 10spd and creates too much friction which negatively affects shifting performance...again counter-intuitive to use more housing but the more graceful larger loop in this area pays off with better shifting.

-j

Last edited by Greenfieldja; 10-23-13 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 10-23-13, 01:40 PM
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Hmmm - I thought the campy cable kit has a pre-cut length of housing for the loop from the chainstay to the rear derailleur. Mine seems to fit ok.
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Old 10-23-13, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by tanguy frame View Post
Hmmm - I thought the campy cable kit has a pre-cut length of housing for the loop from the chainstay to the rear derailleur. Mine seems to fit ok.
the kit includes a loop that one needs to measure against their particular frame configuration. If you have a really small frame or a housing stop particularly close to the end of the chainstay you may need to trim this piece. My suggestion is to not trim this piece too short. When I wrapped up my racing career 8 speed systems had just made their debut...it wasn't until a bunch of years later in 2000 that I migrated from 7 speed to 8speed. After building a bike up for my wife with ultegra and dura-ace she gave me the nod to build myself a new bike with whatever parts I wanted. I started collecting 10 speed record parts in prep for that build. What I found was the length of loop that would have been adequate when building a 7 or 8 speed system did not serve well on the more friction finicky 10 speed system and after some research and trial and error found that this loop of housing should be a bit longer than on lower number of cog systems.

YMMV
-j
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Old 10-23-13, 01:54 PM
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Thanks! Mine fits good.
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Old 10-23-13, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Greenfieldja View Post
the kit includes a loop that one needs to measure against their particular frame configuration. If you have a really small frame or a housing stop particularly close to the end of the chainstay you may need to trim this piece. My suggestion is to not trim this piece too short. When I wrapped up my racing career 8 speed systems had just made their debut...it wasn't until a bunch of years later in 2000 that I migrated from 7 speed to 8speed. After building a bike up for my wife with ultegra and dura-ace she gave me the nod to build myself a new bike with whatever parts I wanted. I started collecting 10 speed record parts in prep for that build. What I found was the length of loop that would have been adequate when building a 7 or 8 speed system did not serve well on the more friction finicky 10 speed system and after some research and trial and error found that this loop of housing should be a bit longer than on lower number of cog systems.

YMMV
-j
It looks like they recommend 330mm
http://www.campagnolo.com/repository..._manual-UK.pdf
http://www.bikebling.com/Campagnolo-...y-cg-er600.htm
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Old 10-23-13, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by sced View Post
Could you point me towards one? I found this but it does not look the same. Thanks!
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...6-record-ultra
Those have the same part number (EC-RE111) which has been used since the second generation levers were introduced in 1998.

Presumably Campagnolo replaced the metal part with the plastic one and just didn't bother updating the part number, where I'd speculate improved fatigue resistance was the reason.

Be sure to buy extras while you still can - I'd worry about availability since Campagnolo discontinued the first generation small parts except for G-springs and third-generation small parts (first made in 2009) with the new spares model being complete shift units (except for hood, brake blade, and mounting hardware) for ~ $90.
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Old 10-23-13, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Drew Eckhardt View Post
snip

Presumably Campagnolo replaced the metal part with the plastic one and just didn't bother updating the part number, where I'd speculate improved fatigue resistance was the reason.

snip
Only the plastic ones seem to survive. I've replaced about 20 of the aluminum ones, no plastic ones yet. The al. ones seem to have soft inner sides, which deform as the spring pushes against it in use. The plastic ones seem to hold up to that pressure. Counter-intuitive to the max.
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Old 10-24-13, 05:25 AM
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I sent my broken shifter to Branford Bikes back in 2006 and it has worked flawlessly ever since.
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Old 10-24-13, 06:57 AM
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Someone needs to digitise this jigger, stat.

I think there's an app for that; you just point your phone's camera at the object and move around it... wouldn't be accurate enough though.

Would be sweet if the app could be tweaked to work with the laser pointer lens microscope trick...
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Old 02-07-14, 09:08 PM
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After reading a bunch of instructions I took the plunge and rebuild my well work Centaur right side shifter. Took some photos and added them here: Ergo assembly instructions

Good luck.
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Old 02-07-14, 10:10 PM
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^ Tutto Fatto indeed! Nice job, ol' chap!!
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Old 02-09-14, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Drew Eckhardt View Post
Yes.



It depends what your time is worth. If disconnecting your right cables, unwrapping the bar, rebuilding the shifter, re-wrapping the bar, and adjusting brake + derailleur is worth less than the $5.50 a pair of G-springs cost from Niagara (in a convenient 4-pack for $10.72) you should re-use the parts. Otherwise you should replace the G-springs to maximize the interval to the next rebuild.
You can use an 8mm allen wrench and pull the body off the clamp. Leave the clamp attached to the still taped bars. That way all you have to do is disconnect the brake and derailleur cables. Pull them out of their casing with the shifter. No need to rewrap the bars.
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