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How much prep do I have to do for this "minor" paint job

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How much prep do I have to do for this "minor" paint job

Old 10-22-13, 10:29 PM
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531Aussie
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How much prep do I have to do for this "minor" paint job

(Warning: year-old thread)

I've got one of these old CAAD8s.

I'm gunna make it all red, then put white stickers on it. I can't afford to get it done professionally, so, assuming I can match the colour, I'm just gunna paint over non-red bits with rattle cans from the local auto parts shops.

Do I just have to rough it up a bit on the areas, or is there more to it?
I'm not totally fussed if it doesn't turn out like a brand new bike,



Last edited by 531Aussie; 10-26-14 at 11:00 PM.
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Old 10-23-13, 09:11 AM
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The answer depends on how nice you want the result to look. If you don't care much then don't even bother to clean off the frame, just rattle can over the grime I think many would remove the decals and sand down the areas to be painted until there was a smooth transition with no tactile indications of where the decals or original paint edges were. Ending up with 600 grit and wet sanding. Then the frame is ready for paint if there's been no sand through to the base aluminum. If there's raw metal then a proper primer needs to go on first, followed with resanding without sanding through this time.

Don't think you'll match the color. Instead use this likelihood to your advantage and apply a different shade, perhaps another red. Perhaps as a panel. After the color goes on you'll want to do something about the edges or transitions from the old to the new paint. The usual method is to , again, wet sand and then clear over the entire frame.

If you want to have a nice looking frame you have a lot of work ahead of you. There's a reason that painters get good money. Andy.
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Old 10-23-13, 12:18 PM
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If you're going to put all the work in to remove decals, you may as well just bring the bike to an industrial powdercoating place after all. Unless you happen to have very low monetary value on your time.

If you just want the bike non-decaled, I'd clean/prep the frame (there is probably a clear-coat over the decals) and then rattle-can it. And you probably won't be able to match the color exactly.
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Old 10-23-13, 05:58 PM
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What are you trying to accomplish?

I don't think that your plan is very likely to make you happy.
1. Color matching isn't that easy to do. Anything less than a perfect match draws your eye and looks bad.
2. Spray cans with minimum surface prep tends to chip or flake off easily.

If it was my bike I'd strip off all the old finish and start from bare metal or else just leave it as it is.
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Old 10-24-13, 10:28 AM
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Thanks, Andrew Stewart.
No, I'm not super-fussed about the outcome, but I obviously don't want it to look too crappy. As the "joke" goes, I'd like to look good with 20/20 vision: at a distance of 20 feet while going 20km/h. Boom boom.

If I put a million stickers on it, like I usually do, it'll look fine enough. It's one of my "nasty" crit/training bikes, so it's not like it's a coffee shop showpiece. I got it used on Ebay (for $35!!! Without a fork or headset), so it came with a couple of scratches and small dents.

I did a little sanding today, and found that the "decals" are painted on.

I'm hoping that I just have to slightly rough-up the areas to be painted, so the paint will stick properly, right? The paint won't stick to the current clear, right?

Thanks, Tallrider. No, my time is cheap, but I hope it doesn't require too much of it.

Thanks, Retro Grouch (still one of the best user names ).
I'm usually easily pleased with my cheap, rattle-can paint jobs. Sure, they look a bit "bumpy" up close, but it depends on the colour.
Hmm, it sounds like optimism of find a similar colour was misplaced
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Old 10-24-13, 10:56 AM
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best of luck in your project.

you still didn't answer why you are painting this. If you're easily-pleased, the few scratches shouldn't bother you, as the original paint job probably still looks better than what you will get. Do you prefer a "clean slate" to put stickers on? Or just want the fun of painting?
Note that I'm not critiquing you here; I do lots of stuff with my time that I happen to enjoy, that doesn't seem economically rational. I'm just curious.
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Old 10-24-13, 11:34 AM
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oh,
I just reckon the older, one-colour CAADs, like this one, look much better than mine. Ok, this one is maroon, but still. I'm gunna get some similar decals off Ebay, and put them over the red.

I took a picture of mine (bottom pic), and I reckon the Saeco one is heaps cooler. The silver logos on mine are a bit drab compared to the bright white ones.


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Old 10-24-13, 12:25 PM
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you should get seatstay decals that say "handmade in Australia" just for fun
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Old 10-24-13, 02:32 PM
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Cannondale used Imron on their frames. You might have trouble getting rattle can paint to stick to the original paint.
Most of Cannondale colors were taken from Mopar/Chrysler color charts. Take the frame to automotive paint store and see if it matches Viper Red. I was able to match the paint on my CAAD3 and Jekyl doing this.
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Old 10-24-13, 02:59 PM
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If it is Imron paint it's best to leave it alone. That stuff is deadly. If you've got to sand it keep it wet so that you're not breathing any dust. Wear protective gloves and a mask.

Last edited by Al1943; 10-24-13 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 10-24-13, 08:43 PM
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Crikey! Good tips. Thanks
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Old 11-03-13, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 531Aussie View Post
Crikey! Good tips. Thanks
So? How did the paint turn out? I'd ride your Cannondale frame the way it was - in fact prefer it to the Saeco frame. Having said that I'm partially repainting a frame (rattle can) that I didn't like. The photo below is after paint before clear coat. Last coat of clear goes on in a few minutes.

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Old 11-03-13, 08:43 PM
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Thanks.
Er, um, I've been a bit slack. I've started the sanding, but haven't bought the paint or decals yet.

Also, it was gunna be a night time job for me in the shed (with a mask on ) in front of the tv, but when Al1943 said that the Cannondale paint could be toxic, I obviously decided it would be an outside job, which means during the day. I have less available time during the day, and our weather's been a bit up and down.

Good excuses?

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Old 11-05-13, 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 531Aussie View Post
I can't afford to get it done professionally, so, assuming I can match the colour, I'm just gunna paint over non-red bits with "rattle cans" from the local auto parts shops.
I can't see this ending well. That sort of approach would be suitable for something like a Huffy, but I don't think the result of this plan is gonna suit the 'Dale so much.

If you ask me, best bang for the buck with aluminium (particularly on a frame with smooth welds) is bare metal.



You could go nuts with black decals and clear over, if you want to be flashy about it.
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Old 10-26-14, 11:06 PM
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so far so ok.

It's been a mini-saga. The dent on the top tube turned into a crack, so I thought the frame was toast. One guy said it wasn't worth fixing, so I forgot about it for a few months. Another shop guy said he knew someone who'd have a shot at fixing it for $100. Caads aren't easy to get cheap, so I decided to get it welded.

I finally got around to painting it.....badly Ah well, once it gets the stickers on it it'll look good enough. One day I might get it done professionally,

It's red, not orange; trust me . I'm also a bad photographer


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Old 10-27-14, 09:56 AM
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We call that color orange.
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Old 10-27-14, 09:14 PM
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Funny thing about color... When in Cleveland we called that brown Andy.
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Old 10-28-14, 06:04 AM
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so far, so not too bad, but I've got the wrong stickers.

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Old 10-28-14, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Al1943 View Post
If it is Imron paint it's best to leave it alone. That stuff is deadly. If you've got to sand it keep it wet so that you're not breathing any dust. Wear protective gloves and a mask.
The problem with Imron is the high amount of isocyanates in the solvent. Bad juju for the nervous system but is only hazardous when being sprayed without proper respiratory protection and ventilation. Once fully cured Imron isn't any more dangerous than any other automotive paint. It is never a good idea to breathe in fine particulates so a good dust and nuisance vapor respirator is recommended. The cheap paper masks sold in hardware stores are not adequate. Wet sanding has advantages, among them being the lack of dust, but even hand sanding dry is fine with a proper mask. There are disposable masks made by 3M and others that have a good seal, an exhalation vent, and at least two straps that are OK for occasional use. If you do much work around fine dust and nuisance vapors, you can get the 3M half-mask with replaceable filters for about $15 and new filters are about $7 for a set. These filters will last a lot longer than the disposable masks so the cost is about a wash unless you are looking for something for one time use. The replaceable filters don't clog as easily as the disposable masks either so breathing is easier for a longer time.


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