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Early 90's Schwinn MTB: What BB?

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Early 90's Schwinn MTB: What BB?

Old 10-23-13, 03:56 PM
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steve-in-kville 
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Early 90's Schwinn MTB: What BB?

I am slowly getting a parts list together for my SS build as a winter project. What BB parts should I be looking at? I do not have a lot of experience with BB's I am afraid. Thanks for the help!!

P.S. I will most likely order from Ben's Cycle.
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Old 10-23-13, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by steve-in-kville View Post
I am slowly getting a parts list together for my SS build as a winter project. What BB parts should I be looking at? I do not have a lot of experience with BB's I am afraid. Thanks for the help!!

P.S. I will most likely order from Ben's Cycle.
It is British threaded with 68mm bottom bracket shell. There's a slight possibility that it has a 73mm bottom bracket shell but that's unlikely. The type of spindle...i.e. square taper, ISIS, external bearing, etc... and the length will depend on your crankset.
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Old 10-23-13, 04:11 PM
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Thanks. I am ordering all new crankset, most likely 5-hole 130mm spider (that's what my other SS/FG takes). So as I will a spindle and bearings? Anything else to keep in mind?
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Old 10-23-13, 04:14 PM
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Get a cartridge type bb with the proper interface (square taper, Octalink or ISIS) and spindle length as they are the easiest to install and maintenance free.
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Old 10-23-13, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by steve-in-kville View Post
Thanks. I am ordering all new crankset, most likely 5-hole 130mm spider (that's what my other SS/FG takes). So as I will a spindle and bearings? Anything else to keep in mind?
You should use a cartridge bearing like HillRider said. Personally, I'd look for an external bearing crank due to the ease of installation.
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Old 10-23-13, 05:05 PM
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It takes less than 5 minutes to plug a Shimano UN-26 or UN-55 in. The UN-26 is fine and is standard on a Trek FX 7.2, only $14 or so. You'll need a Park Tool BBT-22, about $18.00.
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Old 10-23-13, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by oddjob2 View Post
It takes less than 5 minutes to plug a Shimano UN-26 or UN-55 in. The UN-26 is fine and is standard on a Trek FX 7.2, only $14 or so. You'll need a Park Tool BBT-22, about $18.00.
It may take only 5 minutes to install the bottom bracket but it takes longer to install the whole crank. More importantly, it takes more time to remove and more tools. You don't need a crank puller or a socket or (sometimes) a pin spanner to remove the dust caps. An external bottom bracket crank needs a 5 mm hex wrench and a bottom bracket tool to both install and remove. 5 minutes and the entire job is done with much less effort.
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Old 10-23-13, 05:15 PM
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UNxx types are up to 127.5mm wide..

of course the crank arms choice and the chain-line of that SS rear cog cannot be determined remotely..

you measure the chain line you need to hit?

take it or leave it, external bb stuff is not friendly
to tweaking the chain-line up front like finding the goldilocks
chain-line/ bb match, for the given crank ..

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Old 10-23-13, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
take it or leave it, external bb stuff is not friendly
to tweaking the chain-line up front like finding the goldilocks
chain-line/ bb match, for the given crank ..
An external bottom bracket crank would be much easier to tweak for finding that "just right" point. You can move the driveside arm by adding or removing spacers as needed. The spacers can be any thickness you like so you can move the arm fractions of a mm of you wish.

The Shimano bottom brackets come in lengths from 110mm to 127.5mm but that's not the whole story. You can get 110, 113, 117.5, 122.5 and 127.5 mm lengths. That's 5 lengths and if you happen to fall in the middle, you are out of luck.
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Old 10-23-13, 06:51 PM
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& adding 5 chainring spacers, between ring and arm-spider around the bolts, is another tweak

+ then Phil Wood's ability to press the axle through the bearings a little bit, can be utilized
but thats a jump in price ..
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Old 10-23-13, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
& adding 5 chainring spacers, between ring and arm-spider around the bolts, is another tweak
But if you can easily adjust the chainline is fractions of a mm, why go with the kludge job? I just don't see why people have such a problem with external bottom brackets. Since steve-in-kville is apparently buying new parts, why not choose a superior technology which is easier to install, easier to remove, easier to work on and easier to adjust.
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Old 10-23-13, 10:46 PM
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My spacers add clearance on the chainguard side of the cranks : Bike Friday 53t ring on a D-A copy
square taper crank , 124 wide WTB Greaseguard BB, 16T Rohloff cog in back.. lots of choices..

To each their own ..
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