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While the aluminum rims on bikes do dissipate the heat fast, carbon fiber rims do not.
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i imagine the spoon brake left the party when the pneumatic tire showed up.
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Originally Posted by hueyhoolihan
(Post 16199912)
i imagine the spoon brake left the party when the pneumatic tire showed up.
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I'd like to purge this thread of the spoon brake comparison, which is a red herring. The spoon brake was designed to work on the road-contacting surface of a solid, slick tyre. Because the tyre picked up grit, and the spoon was made of ordinary metal, it heated up too much, wore out quickly.
I am suggesting a brake pad made of a more more suitable metal (or other substance), designed to work on the sidewall of a pneumatic tyre made with e.g. extra thickness, a different compound. If the sidewall is designed to wear at a slower rate than the tread, they will both be replaced at the same time. The advantage is the same as with a disc brake (not compromising the rim) plus the lack of the disc mechanism with all the extra weight and adjustment/maintenance issues. As for stopping with a flat, the pads would still exert enough pressure to slow the bike, and you have another brake on the other wheel as well. |
Build and market it and see how it fares, a significantly better system will sell.
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Originally Posted by TimEarl
(Post 16200468)
I'd like to purge this thread of the spoon brake comparison, which is a red herring.
Mechanical braking is about converting kinetic energy to heat through friction. The amount of heat generated is very significant, and must be dissipated or absorbed by a "heat sink" otherwise the surface temperature will rapidly rise to well beyond the melting point or rubber. Since rubber is an insulator, the heat will flow into the metal part which if it isn't large enough or cooled somehow will heat up quickly leading to failure. It's not an accident that all brakes use small pads of friction generating material against larger moving heat conducting rotors. Feel free to experiment, but you might save some time by doing some research into the physics of mechanical braking. |
Additionally, as the tyre heats, the air inside of the tube will expand.
M. |
Originally Posted by MEversbergII
(Post 16201664)
Additionally, as the tyre heats, the air inside of the tube will expand.
M. First of all the relationship of pressure to temperature is based on absolute zero, (-460F) so going from 75f to 125 F would mean less than a 10% rise in pressure. Also consider that rubber is a lousy heat conductor, so the temp on the inside surface of the tire will be slow to climb. Then consider that air is also a lousy conductor, so there'll be a long delay before the air inside matches the temp of the tire's inside wall. Over all, by the time the air starts to warm in any meaningful way the braking cycle will be over and everything will be cooling off already. |
Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 16201697)
This is much less of a problem than one may imagine.
First of all the relationship of pressure to temperature is based on absolute zero, (-460F) so going from 75f to 125 F would mean less than a 10% rise in pressure. Also consider that rubber is a lousy heat conductor, so the temp on the inside surface of the tire will be slow to climb. Then consider that air is also a lousy conductor, so there'll be a long delay before the air inside matches the temp of the tire's inside wall. Over all, by the time the air starts to warm in any meaningful way the braking cycle will be over and everything will be cooling off already. M. |
As FB points out this idea is inherently flawed, but it got me thinking...
So here's a neat idea for a commuter bike: instead of a traditional rear brake (which most competent riders can go without pretty happily), you could have the rear brake lever actuate an old-school dynamo and use it to charge one of those nifty USB backup batteries used to charge phones and whatnot (some electrickery would likely be required to get the voltage right). You wouldn't be able to lock up the wheel with it, but it'd probably suffice pretty well for most normal rear braking... if you squeeze the lever hard enough! You could even have two pinching the tyre, or better yet, one of those nice ones that rolls on the outer circumference.
Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 16193806)
A modern bike on a long downhill can heat the spoon until it's red hot and simply melts apart.
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 16201697)
This is much less of a problem than one may imagine.
First of all the relationship of pressure to temperature is based on absolute zero, (-460F) so going from 75f to 125 F would mean less than a 10% rise in pressure. Also consider that rubber is a lousy heat conductor, so the temp on the inside surface of the tire will be slow to climb. Then consider that air is also a lousy conductor, so there'll be a long delay before the air inside matches the temp of the tire's inside wall. Over all, by the time the air starts to warm in any meaningful way the braking cycle will be over and everything will be cooling off already. |
I assume you'd need to have special tire sidewalls: as others have noted, a rubbing brake pad can damage a tire sidewall relatively quickly. Tire sidewalls are also one part of the bike that you definitely don't want to risk wearing through. Brake pads wear consistently and visibly, and the failure mode isn't likely to lead to a sudden loss of control: in the worst case you'll get some horrible noises and impaired braking performance, and should have a second brake to use. Whereas if breaking wears at the sidewall, you're risking a blowout and sudden loss of control
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 16200973)
It's not an accident that all brakes use small pads of friction generating material against larger moving heat conducting rotors.
Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 16200973)
Mechanical braking is about converting kinetic energy to heat through friction. The amount of heat ... must be dissipated or absorbed by a "heat sink" otherwise the surface temperature will rapidly rise to well beyond the melting point or rubber.
Since rubber is an insulator, the heat will flow into the metal part which if it isn't large enough or cooled somehow will heat up quickly leading to failure. .
Originally Posted by Kimmo
(Post 16203678)
you could have the rear brake lever actuate an old-school dynamo |
Hmmm, doesn't the Copenhagen Wheel use regenerative braking?
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Originally Posted by randomgear
(Post 16209680)
Hmmm, doesn't the Copenhagen Wheel use regenerative braking?
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Originally Posted by randomgear
(Post 16209680)
Hmmm, doesn't the Copenhagen Wheel use regenerative braking?
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Originally Posted by randomgear
(Post 16209680)
Hmmm, doesn't the Copenhagen Wheel use regenerative braking?
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 16210266)
Regeneratve braking is fine for long gradual braking, or speed control on descents, but not for hard braking and short stops. The size and weight of a motor that could provide that much torque is more than anyone would accept on a bicycle. Even hybrid cars that use R-braking still use traditional mechanical brakes for hard braking.
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 16193683)
In all vehicular braking, the real issue isn't how to create friction but managing the heat produced.
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Originally Posted by Kimmo
(Post 16203678)
As FB points out this idea is inherently flawed ...
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Originally Posted by TimEarl
(Post 16200468)
The spoon brake was designed to work on the road-contacting surface of a solid, slick tyre. Because the tyre picked up grit, and the spoon was made of ordinary metal, it heated up too much, wore out quickly.
I am suggesting a brake pad made of a more more suitable metal (or other substance), designed to work on the sidewall of a pneumatic tyre made with e.g. extra thickness, a different compound. If the sidewall is designed to wear at a slower rate than the tread, they will both be replaced at the same time. The advantage is the same as with a disc brake (not compromising the rim) plus the lack of the disc mechanism with all the extra weight and adjustment/maintenance issues. As for stopping with a flat, the pads would still exert enough pressure to slow the bike, and you have another brake on the other wheel as well. With a flat tire, sidewall pads will just push into thin air -- I don't think you've thought that part through all the way. ;) I really wish we had a "Bicycle Mad Science" subforum, though. It's good and fun to think outside of the box, even if it doesn't go anywhere productive. |
Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 16193806)
A modern bike on a long downhill can heat the spoon until it's red hot and simply melts apart.
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Originally Posted by djb
(Post 16198160)
Fb, you might find this interesting-re heat dissipation, a pretty cool example of this (sic) is with European truck racing, race versions of 18 wheeler cabs that are raced on all the famous circuits (donington park in England for example). These are big heavy vehicles and they use ( or at least used to, I haven't seem them for years) a water cooling system on the front brakes ( huge disks I assume) so when coming to a braking point, large clouds of steam pour out from the front. First time seeing a race produced a proper wtf?from me. Strange looking yet effective way to disperse heat. YouTube it if curious.
Aside from heat buildup, the big problem with spoon braking is its inefficiency. Someone pointed out that they don't work very well, and in an age where we're used to having very firm, responsive braking, even to using compressionless housing, think of the brake lever feel of pushing a spoon into a pneumatic tire, even if it is fully inflated. Even if you had a spoon on each side of the tire, the tire cross section would deform to comply with the forces imposed on the sidewalls. You'd not only get unresponsive brakes, you'd likely bottom out the levers under hard braking! Luis |
Originally Posted by lhbernhardt
(Post 16219205)
fill the tire with nitrogen, which does not expand with heat.
All gasses increase in pressure proportional to the temperature Kelvin. I don't know if nitrogen is a poorer heat conductor than air, which may be a factor, but given that air is already 80% nitrogen, I can't imagine that it would be very different. |
I think what filling a tire with nitrogen (or CO2) from a tank accomplishes has more to do with keeping out water vapor than any special properties of those two gases.
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Helium!
M. |
Helium leaks like mad...
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Originally Posted by TimEarl
(Post 16218785)
Originally Posted by Kimmo
(Post 16203678)
As FB points out this idea is inherently flawed...
Viz, the prime consideration in designing any braking system is heat dissipation. Do I need to continue by further restating FB's incontrovertible points? This was a first approximation of a brake, like what you find on a billy cart. It deserves no further evolution. (cue perverse steampunk gleam in more than one reader's eye) ...Actually, I'm reminded of a penny-farthing I saw once rocking a pair of Aerohead rims. Got me thinking, what would a racing highwheeler look like if designed today... some sweet pneumatic tyres on those Aeroheads would be a start. And I guess there might be a place on such a machine for a nifty finned aluminium-backed brake spoon... certainly a dual-pivot caliper would be total overkill. I guess spoon brakes were appropriate for highwheelers, since anything more than the most moderate braking equalled a header. |
Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 16219224)
Is Nitrogen somehow exempt from Boyles Law?
All gasses increase in pressure proportional to the temperature Kelvin. I don't know if nitrogen is a poorer heat conductor than air, which may be a factor, but given that air is already 80% nitrogen, I can't imagine that it would be very different. Since bicycles don't see the heat load that tires like those used in race cars do (passenger cars don't really see those kinds of heat loads either), using dry nitrogen would have little effect. To bring the discussion back to spoon brakes, putting that kind of heat load on a tire would make nitrogen beneficial. Putting that kind of heat load on a bicycle tire would be stupid but nitrogen would help a little in that situation. |
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