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Well crap...what now?

Old 11-06-13, 05:03 PM
  #1  
aquateen
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Well crap...what now?

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Old 11-06-13, 05:07 PM
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I've done that, too. Lessons learned: run a tap through the eyelets first, use grease when installing the bolt, don't force it, think twice about using stainless steel.
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Old 11-06-13, 05:08 PM
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yessir, that sucks. Hopefully you have a dremel tool. That'll make things easier. With a small bur, you cut a slot in the remaining piece in the hole, then use a small screw driver to back out the broken screw. Your friendly dental lab tech could help!
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Old 11-06-13, 05:09 PM
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bike shop?
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Old 11-06-13, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott View Post
I've done that, too. Lessons learned: run a tap through the eyelets first, use grease when installing the bolt, don't force it, think twice about using stainless steel.
I'm puzzled- Don't use Stainless steel?
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Old 11-06-13, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by LuckySailor View Post
I'm puzzled- Don't use Stainless steel?
I think a regular steel bolt might not have been as soft.
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Old 11-06-13, 05:13 PM
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Vice grips on the back side and turn it back out till you can get the vise grips on the outside. Don't try to pull it through.
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Old 11-06-13, 05:24 PM
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run a tap through the eyelets first,
This ...Thread chasing . . buy a 5 x .8 mm tap, and a tap handle .. 6x1 mm is another handy size.


my International touring bike the rack strut mounting bolt is 8.8 steel ..

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Old 11-06-13, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott View Post
I think a regular steel bolt might not have been as soft.
Stainless hardware is typically midway in strength between standard commercial bolts and CrMo bolts and cap screws. OTOH rust is a serious issue, so I'd always opt for stainless bolts in these applications.

The key is some common sense about torque, and being sensitive to changing torque loads that can indicate bad threads.

If I'm reading the photo correctly, the OP can use pliers on the bit of stud sticking out and remove it that. Just some advice for the OP as he goes to remove it. Bolts that break because of simple overloading come out fairly easily because once the head breaks off the tension goes to about zero. OTOH bolts that break because they're jammed in a bad or crossed thread are hard to remove because they need the same amount of torque that jammed them to back them out.
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Old 11-06-13, 05:37 PM
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Common sense... that would have helped, too.
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Old 11-06-13, 05:37 PM
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tried pliers and it just kept removing parts of the screw. really cheap material. might need to drill it out. i think the screw may have been damaged from the weight of the rack because i did not use much torque at all when turning the screw.
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Old 11-06-13, 05:45 PM
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What about a screw extractor?

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Old 11-07-13, 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by TrojanHorse View Post
What about a screw extractor?
Screw extractors in small dimensions are scary, particularly on screws that have seized. Extractors are prone to breaking and are impossible to drill out. I'd much rather put a small nut on top and use an arc welder to fuse it to the remaining stump instead. Next option, drilling.
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Old 11-07-13, 08:12 AM
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I'd apply some penetrating oil.
Give it a bit of soak time.
Use a vise grip pliers and continue screwing in the same direction.
If you have no morals, use a vice grip.
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Old 11-07-13, 08:33 AM
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I have also read on this forum that many touring types have retapped to 6mm rather than the 5mm and have experienced no breakage ever again. Sounds like a common problem these bolts breaking although I have not experienced it.
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Old 11-07-13, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
I'd apply some penetrating oil.
Give it a bit of soak time.
Use a vise grip pliers and continue screwing in the same direction.
If you have no morals, use a vice grip.
This is what I'd do.
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