rhlee

So I stumbled across my old road wheels a few days ago and I would like put them on my current MTB. This would mean spacing the 130mm road hub axle to 135mm to fit the frame.

The "correct" way to do this would be to space 5mm on the NDS and redish the rim to wheel to the new center. However, I know you can also space 2.5mm on both sides, save yourself a redish, but your chainline would be off by 2.5mm.

But I'm wondering how important is the chainline alignment?

Even if the chainline was aligned, wouldn't it only be so for certain gear combos? I mean I mainly ride the big chainrings/top 3 sprockets and hardly every touch the lower 3rd.

If the 2.5mm chainline discrepancy would cause issues, then I would go for the 5mm spacer and redish. But if there is not real difference, I would happily skip the redish and inevitable retruing. One of the reasons is that the wheel has not been touched for a few years so I'm guessing a number of spoke nipples would be seized.

I've also seen 2.5mm spacer kits online specifically for the 130 to 135 conversion, so it can be that bad? Or can it?

What do you guys think?

FBinNY 

You won't cause a rip in the space/time continuum if you do as you propose.

Chainline will be less than ideal, but 2.5mm isn't such a big deal. The real issue is you'll still be riding a highly dished road wheel instead of enjoying the benefits of reduced dish.

It's also possible, but not likely, that the RD may not have enough travel to reach the innermost sprocket. This is more likely if the derailleur hanger is relatively thick.

I'd say go ahead with the spacers of both sides if it's a short term stop gap thing. Otherwise, do the job right, redishing so everything works as if it was designed that way in the first place.

Kimmo

If the redish is a question of tightening the NDS spokes like it is here, I reckon doing it is a no-brainer.

1. Stronger wheel. I never knock back more strength that costs no weight.

2. It's easy. Just add 1/4 turn of tension at a time to the NDS until flipping the wheel leaves the rim in the same spot. 15 minutes max.

Also, in case you're not aware, you only need the 5mm spacer; the 130mm axle is just long enough.

mrrabbit 

$NDS = $NDS + 5MM;

Return $REDISH;

=8-)

jimc101

Old road wheels could be 27 inch or 700c, MTB will be either 26", 650B or 29er, given that the OP hasn't ID's what the rim size is for the road wheel, or wheels size for the MTB, the 130/135 OLD would be irrelevant if the wheels don't fit in the first place, more info about the wheel size is useful!

FBinNY 

Of course the current mtb could be a 29r which is the same rim as 700c.

When the OP asked about hub fit, I (perhaps mistakingly) gave him credit for knowing if the wheel would work in the first place.

rhlee

Thanks for the replies guys. I guess I'll go with the 5mm spacer on the NDS and the redish.

Just one question to Kimmo or anyone else who can answer.
When I tighten on the NDS, do I also have also have to loosen by the same amount on the DS?

Also I doubt most people here can redish a wheel in under 15 mins.

To jimc101 and FBinNY, yes I have tried both wheels in the frame. They fit fine, but the drop is quite low compared to the original road frame they were in, but I found a pair of extra long caliper brakes by Tekktro that fits nicely.

(And to mrrabbit, thanks for the php code.)

fietsbob

these All Disc Brake wheels? You might like Brakes when your done with this Kludge.

FBinNY 

It really depends on whether the wheels can take added tension and how much. If you only tighten the left side, you'll add anout 10-15% more tension into the wheel. Otherwise, loosen the right side spokes first, by about 1/2 turn and see what the response is, hopefully something short of half the distance, then tighten the left to move it the rest of the way. Gererally left side spokes have over twice the effect on horizontal rim movement than right, because of the difference in bracing angle.