More help with canti issues please
 

Hello all. Posted another thread a couple of weeks ago and recieved great help.

(http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...blem-need-help!)

Now I need some help again. All your responses made it clear that the canti arm not functioning properly had to do with friction. I've reversed everything, the springs, and tested all settings, still the right arm is totally useless (even with the functioning arm set on minimum tension and the faulty one on maximum )

I loosened and removed the "shaft" thing from the fork (that the brake arm slides on to), put a picture below
It is worn and the brake arm hole also.
I've tried best I can to gently even the surface a bit, question is, can I get a hold of these parts or do they come with the fork?
And if I buy new brakes, I'll still have the worn shaft/rod

I'm not very good at explaining in english, hope the pictures help
If you were in my position, what would you do? If I had money I'd buy a new bike lol

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=350565http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=350566http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=350567

the boss and anchor plate [by the wrench in picture 3 ] should not have come out.

Cannot do hands on help from Here , Have a Bike shop to Use ?, You might need Loc Tite or Epoxy

to glue the boss and spring stop back in place, or you might need a new fork, as its just too Buggered-Up. .

the bolt that holds the brake on the boss should not have unscrewed the Boss from the Fork Blade.

Doesn't happen on steel forks that the boss is adequately brazed on..

The shaft/canti pivot needs to be reinstalled tightly. As fietsbob said lock tite is often used. (On metal frames this is what i do. Is the mounting hole/threaded hole metal or carbon?) Once the shaft is secured in place it's easy to shoe shine the shaft's surface to remove rust and or smoothen. Like wise a bit of fine grit sand paper wound on a small rod can be used to clean up the canti arm's pivot cylinder. The shaft should stick up JUST above the arm's cylinder and the bolt's washer not compress enough to bind up the arm's free pivoting. Careful filing of the arm's cylinder end or a washer replacement is sometimes needed to achieve this. Of course a grease needs to be applied to the surfaces before final assembly.

It's not uncommon to have the shaft freeze in the arm's cylinder and then the threading in the fork becomes the bushing movement. Andy.

Hi and thanks for quick reply. Yeah I think I got in way over my head here. The mounting hole is metal.. No bikeshop around here, living on an island. Im guessing it is standard to braze fit them or something like it? By the look of the threaded hole there's not really signs of heat.
Locktite seems like a brilliant idea.

Ok I see, but here it was all my fault. Took it out with less than a kilo of force I would guess. Maybe its too much wear in the bushing and new brake is needed ..? Sigh.

Unless the canti chatters on it's shaft (causing squeal or reduced braking force) a loose fit over the shaft is not a problem. The fit is a lot looser then any bearing adjustment (well, maybe internally geared hubs being this exception) would ever be. You could swap out the rear for the front cantis and see how much slop there is that way. But unless it's a LOT I'd not worry. BTW after you get your front set dealt with do the same for the rear set. At the least, cantis need periodic lubing of the shaft. Andy.