Nexus 7 on vertical dropout Help!
I just convert my bike wit an SG-7C18, but I have a big problem IMO. The chain is too tensioned and I need a clue what to do...
Actualy my bike have vertical dropout like in the photo http://sheldonbrown.com/images/dropf-vert.gif Now, I believe there are 3 variants: to add a pair of links and a chain tensioner, to add 4mm spacers between dropouts and axle (that's enough to relax the chain a bit), and the bad idea :twitchy: to enlarging holes with a drill ... not so fun and too much risky. ??? Need other clues or any other opinions. thanks the bike is this: http://www.krone-radschlag.de/images..._milano_gt.jpg |
Originally Posted by waingroo
(Post 16279415)
I just convert my bike wit an SG-7C18, but I have a big problem IMO. The chain is too tensioned and I need a clue what to do...
Actualy my bike have vertical dropout like in the photo http://sheldonbrown.com/images/dropf-vert.gif Now, I believe there are 3 variants: to add a pair of links and a chain tensioner, to add 4mm spacers between dropouts and axle (that's enough to relax the chain a bit), and the bad idea :twitchy: to enlarging holes with a drill ... not so fun and too much risky. ??? One option is to use a half-link, and to file the dropout a little bit wider forwards at the top. With a half-link, you don't need much to get the requred adjustability. But what crank do you have? On the pic it might well be more than one ring on it. And you don't need to buy a chain tensioner - you already have one. Put your derailer back on, use a short length of wire to lock it to the right position and you're done. If you have a double or a triple crank, then you'd still be able to use all rings up front. |
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Originally Posted by dabac
(Post 16279519)
I really don't understand the underlined bit. Adding - or rather restacking spacers would shift the wheel sideways and change the chainline. And you set the chain line to run straight as a separate task from chain tension. No good can come from tweaking the chain line to change the chain tension.
One option is to use a half-link, and to file the dropout a little bit wider forwards at the top. With a half-link, you don't need much to get the requred adjustability. But what crank do you have? On the pic it might well be more than one ring on it. And you don't need to buy a chain tensioner - you already have one. Put your derailer back on, use a short length of wire to lock it to the right position and you're done. If you have a double or a triple crank, then you'd still be able to use all rings up front. |
the correct fix is some sort of chain tensioner
and an old derailleur will work perfectly for this anything else you do is just a kludge the other problem i see is that you seem to have the wrong anti rotation washers there are anti rotation washers made specifically for vertical dropouts and then the cable will not have the tight bend in it as it leaves the hub |
3rd post link: Add a half link to the chain, 1/8" and 3/32" width is available it offers a smaller chain length adjustment..
and , if too long.. say a whole link, or 2, then you can always add a chain tensioner , it screws in where the derailleur was .. I have a Rohloff Hub and it's chain tensioner , it works very nicely.. twin pulley with a stiff return spring. single pulley ones are also made .. more rigidly takes up excess slack .. and you can look for a different chainring, 1 tooth one way or the other , makes a difference. Likewise 1 tooth on the hub cog. a well aligned single speed chain-line does not have to be super tight.. |
another thought
if you put the claw of the anti rotation washer above the axle instead of below it it will act as a spacer like you are looknig for although any type of spacer there will limit the space against which the nut is tightened |
If that is the coaster brake version of the Nexus 7 (Shimano specs say it is), then you won't be able to use it with a spring-loaded tensioner or rear derailleur. If it fits now but is too tight, add a half link.
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
(Post 16279719)
I have a Rohloff Hub and it's chain tensioner , it works very nicely.. twin pulley with a stiff return spring.
it is the same type and works great |
Originally Posted by Cross Creek
(Post 16279750)
If that is the coaster brake version of the Nexus 7 (Shimano specs say it is), then you won't be able to use it with a spring-loaded tensioner or rear derailleur. If it fits now but is too tight, add a half link.
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
(Post 16279719)
#rd post link: Add a half link to the chain, 1/8" and 3/32" width is available it offers a smaller chain length adjustment..
and , if too long.. say a whole link, or 2, then you can always add a chain tensioner , it screws in where the derailleur was .. I have a Rohloff Hub and it's chain tensioner , it works very nicely.. twin pulley with a stiff return spring. single pulley ones are also made .. more rigidly takes up excess slack .. and you can look for a different chainring, 1 tooth one way or the other , makes a difference. Likewise 1 tooth on the hub cog. a well aligned single speed chain-line does not have to be super tight.. I'll gonna try with half link, and if is still too large I'll DIY a fixed (no spring) tensioner like in this image http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/IMG_3088.jpg. I believe that the tensioner with spring will affect the coaster brake... not so sure, just a simple believe. If not afect the brake, I'll use the "old" derailleur tensioner. For the antirotation washer, I have to buy one dedicated for my vertical dropout. |
Originally Posted by Wilfred Laurier
(Post 16279743)
another thought
if you put the claw of the anti rotation washer above the axle instead of below it it will act as a spacer like you are looknig for although any type of spacer there will limit the space against which the nut is tightened |
If its a coaster brake , chain tensioners will flex under back pedal breaking . er Braking.
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Originally Posted by waingroo
(Post 16279779)
Thanks again for the answers to all of you
I'll gonna try with half link, and if is still too large I'll DIY a fixed (no spring) tensioner like in this image http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/IMG_3088.jpg. I believe that the tensioner with spring will affect the coaster brake... not so sure, just a simple believe. If not afect the brake, I'll use the "old" derailleur tensioner. For the antirotation washer, I have to buy one dedicated for my vertical dropout. any chain tensioner will negatively affect the function of the brake or snap in half the first few times you use it you need a rigid straight run of chain on top and bottom |
+ NB: a retrofit BB eccentric is available now. for some BB types.
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
(Post 16279798)
+ NB: a retrofit BB eccentric is available now. for some BB types.
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It will work like you said but i have to filing a bit. Anyway good idea.
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Originally Posted by Wilfred Laurier
(Post 16279743)
another thought
if you put the claw of the anti rotation washer above the axle instead of below it it will act as a spacer like you are looknig for although any type of spacer there will limit the space against which the nut is tightened |
I'm still not sure that I get it. Chain tension should be set either by chain length or moving the rear wheel(or possibly the crank) length wise, not moving the wheel sideways.
And which chain ring are you using, the biggest or the smallest? Either is unlikely to offer a good chain line for an IGH conversion. The most common approach is to flip the big ring over to the inside of the carrier for a better chain line. |
Originally Posted by dabac
(Post 16280381)
I'm still not sure that I get it. Chain tension should be set either by chain length or moving the rear wheel(or possibly the crank) length wise, not moving the wheel sideways.
And which chain ring are you using, the biggest or the smallest? Either is unlikely to offer a good chain line for an IGH conversion. The most common approach is to flip the big ring over to the inside of the carrier for a better chain line. and the angle of the top and bottom of the chain i would guess he is using the small ring the op however did not ask about proper chainline or about useful gear ratios so i said nothing but i suspect he will acheive neither |
Originally Posted by Wilfred Laurier
(Post 16280605)
judging from the picture
and the angle of the top and bottom of the chain i would guess he is using the small ring the op however did not ask about proper chainline or about useful gear ratios so i said nothing but i suspect he will acheive neither |
Originally Posted by dabac
(Post 16280381)
I'm still not sure that I get it. Chain tension should be set either by chain length or moving the rear wheel(or possibly the crank) length wise, not moving the wheel sideways.
And which chain ring are you using, the biggest or the smallest? Either is unlikely to offer a good chain line for an IGH conversion. The most common approach is to flip the big ring over to the inside of the carrier for a better chain line. |
I use the smallest chain ring and the chain line seems to be alright. Where I live is a hilly area, I don't need speed, but rather force. I'm a beginner in bikes, not with too much training... after about 17 years of break. I got first 1st place on bike skill on my school many years ago :p. Until next spring, because now is snowy in my area, i plan to convert it on front electric hub... just for climbing help (about 1km/0,6mile daily) using a small battery.
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a Spring loaded 2 pulley chain tensioner would let you run 2 chainrings and a front derailleur.
and a path not taken was the SRAM DualDrive, a 3 speed IGH with a cassette driver on the right end. that offers a granny gear without needing the triple crankset. |
i installed a nexus 7, with coaster brake, on a custom framed bike with vertical rear dropouts.
here's what i did: i decided on a rear sprocket and chainring combo whose ratio i could live with. i bought a half-link. when installed, the chain was too tight to fit all the way into the rear dropout, so i filed it (the dropout) a little. voila! BTW, IIRC, my Nexus7 coaster brake hub did not have any special washer on the back, probably because it had a whopping brake arm attached to the offside chainstay, IDK. it was a good setup, a little too heavy in the rear, but IMO that's a matter of personal preference... |
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