Did I get cheated?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,224
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
6 Posts
Did I get cheated?
I took my 1994 Cannondale Killer V900 for a leisurely ride last Wednesday (had not ridden it in over a year and a half), then at about mile 25 of a scheduled 35 miler, found that the drive side Shimano SPD pedal had loosened and stripped from the aluminum Sugino XD 300 crank. I walked the bike to the nearest bike shop I know on Coast Highway in Newport Beach, California (at 2:30PM) and there was a sign on the closed door saying "gone surfing, will be back soon", waited about 30 minutes, but the idiot was not back. Walked the bike to another store, whose owner I do not care for, since I just never understood his kind of personality/attitude in a service business owner (from a previous stop to use his air pump many many years ago). He proceeded to tell me that he'll fix it up by using an insert, and the charge was $40. It took him 15 minutes of labor.
Did I get screwed on the pricing? And, can I take the pedal off and re-install same without messing up whatever job he did in there?
Thanks for all responses.
Did I get screwed on the pricing? And, can I take the pedal off and re-install same without messing up whatever job he did in there?
Thanks for all responses.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 15,280
Bikes: Nashbar Road
Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2934 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times
in
228 Posts
I don't think you got cheated. You pay a mechanic or specialist to repair something, it's reasonable to be 30 or 40 dollars to start with regardless of how long it took.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,071
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4199 Post(s)
Liked 3,851 Times
in
2,301 Posts
The skill and expertise that allows the guy to perform a job quickly is to be sought out and rewarded, as long as the job is done well. So as the miles add up your opinion may evolve from wondering if your paid too much to how good a deal it was saving a crank arm. As long as the repair does hold up. So I think the jury is still out. Andy.
#4
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,509
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2744 Post(s)
Liked 3,390 Times
in
2,053 Posts
While you wait repair. doesn't seem out of line to me. How much was a replacement crank arm?
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Columbia county, NY
Posts: 571
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
You just happened to be within walking distance to 2 bike shops and you find something to complain a bout, they get you back on the road right?
#6
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,843
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times
in
612 Posts
Sounds reasonable to me.
The insert is likely stainless steel and may end up being stronger than the original aluminum threads.
Check your bike over for other loose nuts & bolts so you don't get more surprises mid-ride.
The insert is likely stainless steel and may end up being stronger than the original aluminum threads.
Check your bike over for other loose nuts & bolts so you don't get more surprises mid-ride.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
#7
Senior Member
Jed, A loose pedal is your responsibility to find during a pre ride exam. Whatever you think you were over charged, put it down to the cost of education.
Brad
Brad
#8
Senior Member
$40 and 15 minutes is a bargain. Sure beats ordering a new crank arm for $100 and/or waiting a week.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,224
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
6 Posts
Okay to all responses saying the $40 repair cost was reasonable, especially when compared to the cost of a new crank arm. Just kinda lamenting how a leisurely ride on a perfect afternoon ended up yanking $40 off my wallet
Live and learn, I guess!
Live and learn, I guess!
#10
Friendship is Magic
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 22,984
Bikes: old ones
Mentioned: 304 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26402 Post(s)
Liked 10,374 Times
in
7,203 Posts
...those inserts cost five to ten bucks apiece, depending on where I order them.
And not all bike shops will do this service for you. Try to be happy, it's the holidays.
And not all bike shops will do this service for you. Try to be happy, it's the holidays.
__________________
#11
Señor Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,066
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 649 Post(s)
Liked 292 Times
in
215 Posts
You could probably find a similar quality
semi matching
replacement crank arm for about fifteen bucks
ps
just saw that it was the drive side
i was thinking non drive side
forty dollars is a good deal
the question i would ask myself is
how did the pedal come out
if the pedal had been recently installed or reinstalled
then it was likely not torqued down properly
which doesnt need to be too tight
as pedals tend to be self tightening
i often install my pedals with an allen key on a small multi tool and have never had one come out
if the pedal had been in place for some time
then the threads may have just died from old age
the former explanation is much more common than the latter
semi matching
replacement crank arm for about fifteen bucks
ps
just saw that it was the drive side
i was thinking non drive side
forty dollars is a good deal
the question i would ask myself is
how did the pedal come out
if the pedal had been recently installed or reinstalled
then it was likely not torqued down properly
which doesnt need to be too tight
as pedals tend to be self tightening
i often install my pedals with an allen key on a small multi tool and have never had one come out
if the pedal had been in place for some time
then the threads may have just died from old age
the former explanation is much more common than the latter
#12
Mechanic/Tourist
I took my 1994 Cannondale Killer V900 for a leisurely ride last Wednesday (had not ridden it in over a year and a half), then at about mile 25 of a scheduled 35 miler, found that the drive side Shimano SPD pedal had loosened and stripped from the aluminum Sugino XD 300 crank. I walked the bike to the nearest bike shop I know on Coast Highway in Newport Beach, California (at 2:30PM) and there was a sign on the closed door saying "gone surfing, will be back soon", waited about 30 minutes, but the idiot was not back. Walked the bike to another store, whose owner I do not care for, since I just never understood his kind of personality/attitude in a service business owner (from a previous stop to use his air pump many many years ago). He proceeded to tell me that he'll fix it up by using an insert, and the charge was $40. It took him 15 minutes of labor.
Did I get screwed on the pricing? And, can I take the pedal off and re-install same without messing up whatever job he did in there?
Thanks for all responses.
Did I get screwed on the pricing? And, can I take the pedal off and re-install same without messing up whatever job he did in there?
Thanks for all responses.
Yes, you can treat it the same as originally.
p.s. Although it's true that the pedal coming loose may have been the result of less attention to maintenance it's not really germaine to the question of what the shop charged. Beyond natural consequences it's not appropriate to punish someone with higher charges for not taking care of their bike.
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 11-29-13 at 03:22 PM.
#13
Not quite there yet
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Monkey Bottom, NC
Posts: 999
Bikes: A bunch of old steel bikes + an ICE trike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Yes, you may have found a mechanic that would have charged you a bit less; however getting back on the road without much down time is well worth $40.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: NJ
Posts: 3,084
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
4 Posts
$40 is about right; you can get a DS xd crankarm for less, but that won't get you home when one fails mid-ride. There were a couple of ways that could've played out (he might not have had an insert or the right tools; he could've tried to charge a king's ransom for a replacement; he could've charged more or taken longer for the same repair)-- so, you could've done far worse.
I wonder if the approach taken by some shops might make one feel either cheated or well-served, given the same repair for the same price, depending on how the customer feels about the conversation prior. The stand-side manner, if you will. A cheerful "I can use an insert and have you back on the road in 15 minutes" might be better than a blase "well, uh, I can use an insert and it costs $40".... Just a thought (and, to be fair, I have no idea how the guy might've treated the OP...)
I wonder if the approach taken by some shops might make one feel either cheated or well-served, given the same repair for the same price, depending on how the customer feels about the conversation prior. The stand-side manner, if you will. A cheerful "I can use an insert and have you back on the road in 15 minutes" might be better than a blase "well, uh, I can use an insert and it costs $40".... Just a thought (and, to be fair, I have no idea how the guy might've treated the OP...)
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,224
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
6 Posts
Yeah, this was the exact point he made when I told him how surprised I am at the repair cost. He specifically said not all bike shops/mechanics are capable/competent in repairing that kind of problem. So, I am glad to have that confirmed by you.
#16
working on my sandal tan
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,629
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3871 Post(s)
Liked 2,568 Times
in
1,579 Posts
Would it feel like a better deal if he had taken longer to do the same thing?
#17
Really Old Senior Member
You could have found someone that fumbled around for an hour trying to figure out how to do it.
The fact the guy had the expertise to do it in a prompt manner for a customer that felt he should jump through hoops to provide them free air.....
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,224
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
6 Posts
You are dead wrong re asking for free air. He did not charge for air, but his personality/attitude just rubbed me wrong for somebody in a service business. And I am quite experienced with bikes (fixing and riding), just never had a pedal fail before in about 30 years of riding and tinkering with bikes. And I was sure I could not fix it myself if I got a ride home, which was why I shelled out the $40.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 87
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Sounds like you should have called a friend to pick you up and take the bike home to repair yourself. I doubt you will be satisfied any other way.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ithaca, NY
Posts: 4,852
Bikes: Click on the #YOLO
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
12 Posts
FWIW, those 9/16" taps and inserts start north of $100. Extra inserts are between $5-10 each.
If anything I'd say you got a good deal.
Someone here used to foist a saying that was something like "that'll be $5 for the labor and $35 for owning the tool and knowing how to use it properly"
If anything I'd say you got a good deal.
Someone here used to foist a saying that was something like "that'll be $5 for the labor and $35 for owning the tool and knowing how to use it properly"
Last edited by IthaDan; 11-29-13 at 05:08 PM.
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: St Louis
Posts: 197
Bikes: Cannondale six13/ Connondale CAAD 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I would of paid $100 if it got me back on the road that quick!!! I sold cars for 8 years and a guy came in asking for $500 below invoice so we sold him a car on his terms. You know what he says to me on delivery!! I think I should of got a better deal and gave me a crap survey. So I have no mercy for cheap people. Just my 2 cents
#23
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,843
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times
in
612 Posts
You are dead wrong re asking for free air. He did not charge for air, but his personality/attitude just rubbed me wrong for somebody in a service business. And I am quite experienced with bikes (fixing and riding), just never had a pedal fail before in about 30 years of riding and tinkering with bikes. And I was sure I could not fix it myself if I got a ride home, which was why I shelled out the $40.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
#24
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,784
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3587 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times
in
1,934 Posts
#25
Really Old Senior Member