Chain-L vs. Boeshield T9 for chain lube?
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Chain-L vs. Boeshield T9 for chain lube?
Chain-L lasts way longer between relubes, which I like.
Other than that, I have no idea what might make one "better" than the other.
I ride in Maryland. Between 28F and 105F. On road riding 99.999% of the time. Rain when caught in it. No sand around here in central MD.
Thinking of going back to Chain-L. I just like that re-lubes only need to be done 8 times a year with my riding. Rather than every 200 miles with the Boeshield.
Any reason why sticking with Boeshield might be better?
Other than that, I have no idea what might make one "better" than the other.
I ride in Maryland. Between 28F and 105F. On road riding 99.999% of the time. Rain when caught in it. No sand around here in central MD.
Thinking of going back to Chain-L. I just like that re-lubes only need to be done 8 times a year with my riding. Rather than every 200 miles with the Boeshield.
Any reason why sticking with Boeshield might be better?
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I'm certainly not going to talk you out of coming back to Chain-L.
However, others might find it easier to answer if you explained what benefit you were looking to achieve with T-9, or what issues you've had with either product.
However, others might find it easier to answer if you explained what benefit you were looking to achieve with T-9, or what issues you've had with either product.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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I use T-9 in the winter and it works well. But is Chain-L any less sticky? The problem here in Minneapolis is the sand that's dumped on the streets (and, for some incomprehensible reason, on the bike paths) in the winter.
#5
aka Phil Jungels
I don't know what is in Chain - L, but I like it.
It seems similar to my own mix of motor oil(full syn), hypoid gear oil(full syn), chain saw bar oil, and mineral spirits.
Yeah, they both get dirty, but sure feel smooth......................
p.s.(edit) mine smells worse!
It seems similar to my own mix of motor oil(full syn), hypoid gear oil(full syn), chain saw bar oil, and mineral spirits.
Yeah, they both get dirty, but sure feel smooth......................
p.s.(edit) mine smells worse!
#6
Senior Member
According to the Friction Facts lube test, Chain-L is about a 1/3rd watt better than Boeshield T-9. A third of a watt is next to nothing. They didn't list either on how long they lasted. If you want long time between lubes AND less friction, go old school with paraffin wax.
https://www.friction-facts.com/test-r...hain-lube-test
https://www.friction-facts.com/test-r...hain-lube-test
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A long time between lubes with wax, eh?
Excuse me if I chortle.
Excuse me if I chortle.
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Huh? I'm laughing right with Kimmo on this one. I don't know of any lube less durable than paraffin. And, yes, I used it exclusively for a year or more so I'm talking from experience, not second hand info.
#12
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What was wrong with Chain A > K?
OTOH, T9?
OTOH, T9?
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OTOH the long service life means you can wipe down the outside of the chain until it's almost dry, then re-wipe as needed so stuff doesn't build up. The long life means you won't be reapplying and starting the entire process anew.
I developed Chain-L as a road lube around northeastern conditions, but it gets solid reviews from people using it under just about all conditions, and it's very rare that people challenge the my service life claims.
I try to avoid direct comparisons to other lubes because some are very different but equally good in their own way, and I think people should use whatever works for them according to where/how they ride, and the considerations they rank as most important.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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Chain-L lasts way longer between relubes, which I like.
Other than that, I have no idea what might make one "better" than the other.
I ride in Maryland. Between 28F and 105F. On road riding 99.999% of the time. Rain when caught in it. No sand around here in central MD.
Thinking of going back to Chain-L. I just like that re-lubes only need to be done 8 times a year with my riding. Rather than every 200 miles with the Boeshield.
Any reason why sticking with Boeshield might be better?
Other than that, I have no idea what might make one "better" than the other.
I ride in Maryland. Between 28F and 105F. On road riding 99.999% of the time. Rain when caught in it. No sand around here in central MD.
Thinking of going back to Chain-L. I just like that re-lubes only need to be done 8 times a year with my riding. Rather than every 200 miles with the Boeshield.
Any reason why sticking with Boeshield might be better?
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What do you recommend to clean the chain with before application?
As to lube I've been using a wax type but am interested in trying yours. I've got long experience with chain lubes on motorcycles but as the rpms are so much lower I feel like the typical mc chain lube would be a bit heavy, tho I've thought of trying the silicone chain saver that dupont makes, been using on mcs for years.
Just ordered a bottle.
Thanks
Chris
As to lube I've been using a wax type but am interested in trying yours. I've got long experience with chain lubes on motorcycles but as the rpms are so much lower I feel like the typical mc chain lube would be a bit heavy, tho I've thought of trying the silicone chain saver that dupont makes, been using on mcs for years.
Just ordered a bottle.
Thanks
Chris
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Based on many years of experience, I now only use petroleum solvents such as naphtha or mineral spirits. These are about the most effective at breaking down oils, greases, and most waxes, and yet not harmful to the chain itself. They (mostly) also dry completely on their own.
The key to cleaning chains is to make sure you do a thorough job and don't leave dirt and compromised and half broken down oil still inside the chain.
You'll need a coffee can or similar to wash chains, and airtight containers to store used solvent. Dirt settles out and solvents can be reused.
The key to cleaning chains is to make sure you do a thorough job and don't leave dirt and compromised and half broken down oil still inside the chain.
You'll need a coffee can or similar to wash chains, and airtight containers to store used solvent. Dirt settles out and solvents can be reused.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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Thanks very much! On my mc's I've always used wd 40 to clean the chain and then ddry thoroughly but an mc chain gets substantially grittier. Kerosene is very popular for cleaning mc chains, so I might try this.
Based on many years of experience, I now only use petroleum solvents such as naphtha or mineral spirits. These are about the most effective at breaking down oils, greases, and most waxes, and yet not harmful to the chain itself. They (mostly) also dry completely on their own.
The key to cleaning chains is to make sure you do a thorough job and don't leave dirt and compromised and half broken down oil still inside the chain.
You'll need a coffee can or similar to wash chains, and airtight containers to store used solvent. Dirt settles out and solvents can be reused.
The key to cleaning chains is to make sure you do a thorough job and don't leave dirt and compromised and half broken down oil still inside the chain.
You'll need a coffee can or similar to wash chains, and airtight containers to store used solvent. Dirt settles out and solvents can be reused.
#18
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Kerosene does a good job as a cleaner, but doesn't dry completely, so you should consider mineral spirits as a final rinse to ensure that the chain will be dry before you oil it.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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They are both fine lubes, but the Boeshield is a lot thinner so it's best suited to the sort of conditions you want a thinner lube for, whatever they are.
For folks who want their chain to stay lubed for good while despite riding in the wet, it's pretty tough to beat Chain-L... I'm not aware of anything that can match it.
Maybe if you find the Chain-L a bit sticky you could dilute it a bit with some Boeshield
...Someone who has both* should try it and report back!
*My mate lost my bottle of Chain-L
For folks who want their chain to stay lubed for good while despite riding in the wet, it's pretty tough to beat Chain-L... I'm not aware of anything that can match it.
Maybe if you find the Chain-L a bit sticky you could dilute it a bit with some Boeshield
...Someone who has both* should try it and report back!
*My mate lost my bottle of Chain-L
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
#21
Senior Member
Boeshield for light lubing needs, like road riding in decent weather, and for those who lube their chains frequently. Bonus as a lighter-weight oil is it can be used for other lubrication needs, like derailleur pivots and such.
Chain-L for everything else, especially commuting in all weather and riding year round, for those who are less than persnickety about frequency of chain lubing. I'd not use a heavier oil like this as a general lubricant.
Chain-L for everything else, especially commuting in all weather and riding year round, for those who are less than persnickety about frequency of chain lubing. I'd not use a heavier oil like this as a general lubricant.
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I've used Chain-L before moving to the coast then switched to Boeshield T-9. The Chain-L does last much longer but is too sticky to use in sandy conditions. I'm lucky to 300 miles out of Boeshield between applications but I don't like the sound of a squeaky chain. I also (lightly) wipe the chain down between rides to remove any sand from the drivetrain.
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I have been very happy with chain-L. I ride about 100-120 miles a week, this time of year often in rain, yesterday in snow.
BTW , did not like riding in snow, so this weeks miles will be a low
BTW , did not like riding in snow, so this weeks miles will be a low
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We tried a sample bottle of Chain L at work over a course of a month or two of wet commuting. We all seemed to notice it wearing off quickly with the first application, however we were all trying to get our chains cleaned beforehand, so that may have played a part. The "smooth" feeling is amazing compared the the T9 we all normally use. I applied to my fixed commuter, the rest to geared bikes. Whether the wet roads were a contributor or not, I noticed alot more derailleur pulley butter (that caked on encapsulated grit and grime) with the Chain L.