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1st generation 6 spd cassette

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1st generation 6 spd cassette

Old 11-30-13, 09:48 PM
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1st generation 6 spd cassette

1987 schwinn voyageur touring bike, stock, 27" wheels. downtube shifters, using in friction mode. bike shifts gears on rear cassette on its own. mechanic advises need new cassette and chain. says bike has first generation 6 speed cassette and he has no source for new cassette. suggests i swap in diff. wheel, ie an old one that takes freewheel. 700c conversion wont with existong brakes. im able to get a new used 27" wheel that takes freewheel, but wondering if anyone has source for a new 6 speed cassette, first generation. he says locking mechanism is different on first gen. need wide range ie 14-28, or 12-28, etc.
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Old 11-30-13, 10:19 PM
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Not just the locking mech. is different but the splines that the cogs slider onto are also different. You might find a NOS or good condition used cassette if you look hard and long enough. But i wouldn't hold my breath. The best long term solution is to replace the hub, and cogs. With what is your choice. Andy.
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Old 11-30-13, 10:29 PM
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Not dead sure but I think you could just use any cassette cogs provided you find a way to widen the spacers a little to accomodate the narrower rings, and use a singlespeed top cog for the outer cog to hold it all together.

Or just haunt ebay for uniglide parts.....unless it's a Maillard Helicomatic. Then, none of this goes.
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Old 11-30-13, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
Not just the locking mech. is different but the splines that the cogs slider onto are also different. You might find a NOS or good condition used cassette if you look hard and long enough. But i wouldn't hold my breath. The best long term solution is to replace the hub, and cogs. With what is your choice. Andy.
Only a little grinding is required to make new cogs fit the old hub. One of the splines is narrower on the new hubs so that all the cogs would be installed with a certain index.

Of course, I don't think I've ever seen loose cogs for a hyperglide even though maybe they exist. They come riveted together in a cassette.
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Old 11-30-13, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by garage sale GT
Only a little grinding is required to make new cogs fit the old hub. One of the splines is narrower on the new hubs so that all the cogs would be installed with a certain index.

Of course, I don't think I've ever seen loose cogs for a hyperglide even though maybe they exist. They come riveted together in a cassette.
IIRC another difference between the old 6 spd cassettes and the current ones is that the current ones use thinner cogs. So if you did get loose cassette cogs and used the old cog spacers the c-c dimension and overall cassette width would not match the old. With a friction lever this would not be a problem. Mixing and matching cassettes of different era can be done but sooner or later it pays to get into this century. Andy.
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Old 11-30-13, 10:52 PM
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If it is a uniglide first gen freehub, I think you can flip the cogs around so the wear sections are flipped around the chain will ride on the unworn sections. I don't think there is a narrow key spline on Uniglide freehubs.
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Old 11-30-13, 11:01 PM
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Loose Screws still lists 1st-generation Uniglide 6-speed cassettes:
https://loosescrews.com/index.cgi?c=C...spd%20Uniglide
Sizes are limited.
They also list loose cogs:
https://loosescrews.com/index.cgi?nr=...ano%20Uniglide
Sizes are also limited.

Since you say you want a "wide range", you should be able to replace the unique outer cog with one from Loose Screws, then modify later Hyperglide cogs to fit your Uniglide body. All it takes is narrowing the one wide spline on each cog.

The OP identifies itself as "Gary in LA". Gary, if that means Los Angeles and not Louisiana, have you visited Montrose Bike Shop northwest of Pasadena? They're connected to Euro-Asia Imports, who's an importer of high-end Shimano and Campy. If there's a NOS Uniglide cassette to be had, Euro-Asia has it. Expect it to be expensive.
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Old 11-30-13, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by GaryinLA
1987 schwinn voyageur touring bike, stock, 27" wheels. downtube shifters, using in friction mode. bike shifts gears on rear cassette on its own. .
Perhaps I've misunderstood but to me this sounds like the friction shifter is not maintaining its position. When it shifts on its own does it shift to a smaller cog on the cassette? If so the friction needs to be increased. This can usually be done with a knob or "D" ring on the shifter..
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Old 11-30-13, 11:47 PM
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Bobotech is absolutely correct. Don't discard a uniglide cassette until you've flipped the cogs and worn out the other side (the screw-down smallest cog can't be flipped). Check out Al1943's theory also. Old cogs and chain typically cause skipping, not shifts. Have you measured the chain? See https://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear
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Old 11-30-13, 11:48 PM
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The old 6 speed UG cassette/hubshell did not have the aligning spline the was used with the later HG cassettes/hub shell. In the past I have used using the 5 larger cogs of a 7 speed HG which are riveted together (the 6th gear is the threaded lockring). The aligning lands and grooves of the UG hub (6 speed) shell are all symmetrical. The aligning spline on the HG (7 speed) hub is simply the same size as the others, but the lower groove of the spline was widened leaving the upper land narrower (opposite with the cassette). To make an HG cassette fit on a UG hub, simply assemble a hack saw with the blade through the cassette, and make a cut in the wide land so it will be the same width as the symmetrical land and then grind out the rest of the metal between the cut and the end of the land. After that it will work and because it is usually riveted together you'll still get the advance of the HG teeth profiles.



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Old 11-30-13, 11:51 PM
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hi, thanks for replies. i am in los angeles, havent been to a montrose bike shop. until yesterday i was using shifters in indexed mode and experienced this ghost shifting. just put right shifter in friction mode so i will see if problem remains. i think it will. chasing after an expensive old 6 speed wide range cassette ie for 68 off ebay makes no sense since i can get good used 27" wheels that use freewheels off craigslist and then use new 14-28 or 13-28, i forget, 6 speed shimano freewheels which are readily obtainable and cheap ie 25 dollars. but if there is a retailer of new wide range 6 speed cassettes which arent expensive ie not 69 dollars then i will use my wheel. i looked at that 'missing parts' online store, saw they had a 14-21 that does me no good an i emailed them to ask if they have a 14-28.

just last week i bought a used backup 27" wheelset with 6 speed 13-32 freewheel attached off craigslist so i find this a better approach than paying 69 dollars for a nos or used 6 speed cassette for 69 dollars off ebay from a reseller, but if theres a reasnably priced new source of wide range 6 spd cassettes id like to know so i can use this wheel.
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Old 12-01-13, 12:45 AM
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thanks for advice. i will try to pinpoint ghost shifting to particular cogs and consider if they can be flipped or replaced. but i am keeping my eye out for used good condition 27" wheels that use frewheels instead as new freewheels are still soldvat reasonable price.
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Old 12-01-13, 11:26 AM
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I agree, it would be best to rule out this possiblity before buying a new wheel.

If the shifter does not have a means of adjusting tension put a split ring lock washer under the screw that holds the shifter on. I have some Sunrace DT shifters with no provision for tension adjustment and this method works perfectly. Even if it has tension adjustment the lock washer may help. Also, put some Loctite on the screw that holds the shifter on. If it loosens it will cause the symptoms that you describe. Blue Loctite was not suffcient on my bike, I had to use red.

Originally Posted by Al1943
Perhaps I've misunderstood but to me this sounds like the friction shifter is not maintaining its position. When it shifts on its own does it shift to a smaller cog on the cassette? If so the friction needs to be increased. This can usually be done with a knob or "D" ring on the shifter..
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Old 12-02-13, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by garage sale GT
Of course, I don't think I've ever seen loose cogs for a hyperglide even though maybe they exist. They come riveted together in a cassette.
I've got a drawer full of loose 7-and 8-spd Hyperglide cogs purchased as single cogs or by disassembling cassettes, and use them to create the cassette I want, not necessarily what Shimano felt was best for me. And they aren't "riveted" together. What looks like rivets on 7- and 8-speed cassettes are small external hex-headed bolts. See the small hex hole in this Shimano crank dust cap/chainring bolt pin wrench? It fits the hex head of the cassette bolt. There are some cassettes that take a very small Allen wrench instead.

https://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...rench-2378.htm
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Old 12-02-13, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Dfrost
I've got a drawer full of loose 7-and 8-spd Hyperglide cogs purchased as single cogs or by disassembling cassettes, and use them to create the cassette I want, not necessarily what Shimano felt was best for me. And they aren't "riveted" together. What looks like rivets on 7- and 8-speed cassettes are small external hex-headed bolts...
This depends on the quality level of the cassette. Seems like the HG70 and above had the nice bolts, but HG50 and below truly are riveted, so you need to drill them out to mix-and-match.

While we're on the subject, I think upgrading to a 7-speed Hyperglide freehub body on the existing rear hub would be the best way forward for the OP. Those parts at least are still in production.
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Old 12-02-13, 06:56 PM
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Thanks for the correction regarding HG50 cassettes. Guess I've I've always gone for HG70 or higher.

I agree with the suggestion of upgrading the freehub body to 7-speed Hyperglide. I'm about to include several such NOS hub bodies in a long FS listing. If the OP is interested, please send me a PM.
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