Topeak d-Torq wrench: Are there non-branded versions available?
#26
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Well, if that's the case, put more effort into your first post. Nobody knows what a topeak d-torq wrench is. They do, however, know what a torque wrench is, and, if they're anything like myself, they're probably not about to google what makes the topeak one so special. You could have provided a link or mentioned that you were looking for a digital torque wrench before you got all butthurt about nobody answering your vague question.
I mean, seriously, take a look at what people have to work with:
Put some effort into your threads if you expect people to put effort into their replies.
I mean, seriously, take a look at what people have to work with:
Put some effort into your threads if you expect people to put effort into their replies.
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finding a good digital torque wrench that will go as low as 1Nm is not that easy. They tend to be higher priced as accurate tolerances for 1-5 nm are much more precise than a torque wrench that covers 50-200nm
Of course there are non-bicycle torque wrenchs available that are cheaper and works quite ok on a bike. A specific tool is just a tool, it can work on a bike, a car, or a rocket down in Fla. This falls into the same area as "bike" grease, when any good quality grease is 10 times cheaper and works just as well.
#28
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IthaDan:
It seemed obvious that if someone didn't know about Topeak d-Torq, then they wouldn't be able to point out similar wrenches. Lesson learned.
It seemed obvious that if someone didn't know about Topeak d-Torq, then they wouldn't be able to point out similar wrenches. Lesson learned.
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hey guys, let's have a group hug and sing "kumbaya"

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If you put crap in, you get crap out. Try a link, an image inline, or both. Try anything more than a single sentence you dead drop on the forum.
#31
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Anga,
I'm sorry that I jumped on you, and the thread has turned into an attack thread.
However, you need to realize that you're coming to a forum looking for FREE help. Nothing's free in this world, and the same way you need to put up with ads, popups, and other nonsense to use the FREE intenet, you have to accept off topic posts, and unwanted advice or comments as the price of FREE advice on forums.
If you were paying a professional for advice you'd be right on insisting that he stay on topic, but here you have to take what comes, and accept it all graciously.
I'm sorry that I jumped on you, and the thread has turned into an attack thread.
However, you need to realize that you're coming to a forum looking for FREE help. Nothing's free in this world, and the same way you need to put up with ads, popups, and other nonsense to use the FREE intenet, you have to accept off topic posts, and unwanted advice or comments as the price of FREE advice on forums.
If you were paying a professional for advice you'd be right on insisting that he stay on topic, but here you have to take what comes, and accept it all graciously.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#33
Senior Member
I found a d-torq used on amazon about 1-1/2 yr ago for $100. I've used the beam & dial types before. I much prefer the d-torq for a few reasons.
1. Don't have to zero out when not in use.
2. Beeps when you reach set torque, and beeps again if you exceed set torque. Makes it almost impossible to overtorque unless you're really not paying attention.
3. Believe it or not, I had it recalibrated after a year's hard use. It was within 5% of original spec.
1. Don't have to zero out when not in use.
2. Beeps when you reach set torque, and beeps again if you exceed set torque. Makes it almost impossible to overtorque unless you're really not paying attention.
3. Believe it or not, I had it recalibrated after a year's hard use. It was within 5% of original spec.
#34
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Being extremely hard of hearing and unable to hear various tones, this would not cut it for me. Paying attention I may not hear the beep.
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I'm not arguing with you or arguing against digital torque wrenches, I can't justify the expense for my needs but they ARE nice. Just wanted to make a few remarks about torque wrenches in general.
I know that's what is universally accepted as gospel and I used to believe that too but at my former job we had adjustable torque wrenches that had been locked on the same setting for over 10 years. We verified calibration every year at a minimum and on wrenches that saw heavy usage every 6 months. When we checked calibration we unlocked the wrenches and tested them at various settings then returned them to the required setting. It was very rare that one was ever out of calibration at any point on the scale. I still zero mine out of habit but if someone borrows one of my wrenches and doesn't reset it to the lowest setting when they bring it back I don't freak out about it anymore. They don't get to borrow it again, but I stay calm. 
Yeah, that is a nice feature, does it have a light too? The indicator lights are really nice in a noisy environment. IIRC the Crane digitals have colored LED's, green when you reach torque and then it goes amber or red if you overtorque. I have a high frequency hearing loss and couldn't always hear the beep if there was background noise but I can feel my clicker when it clicks.
I believe it, you have to really abuse a quality torque wrench to knock it out of calibration, +/- 5% at lower torque settings is actually about as good as you can hope for due to any number of variables. Cheap wrenches on the other hand may not even be within 20% right out of the box. I used to take my wrenches to work every year and check them but I went a little crazy a few years ago and bought my own torque analyzer to test my wrenches with. It's an oldie but a goodie, a Sturtevant-Richmont, it only reads in InLbs and FtLbs no Metric, but it's good enough for my needs. OK, it's serious overkill for my needs, what can I say? I'm a tool "geek".
My apologies to the OP for the hijack, I know it's not the specific info you asked for but it may help someone else who happens across this thread.

My apologies to the OP for the hijack, I know it's not the specific info you asked for but it may help someone else who happens across this thread.
#36
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There are no warning lights on the d-torq to match the set torque and overtorque beeps, but you can keep your eye on the LCD display to see where you are torque-wise.
#38
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Thus I would recommend Google and Amazon as good spot to look for them. When you narrow down a short list that fit your specific criteria, post that and folks can then lean one way or the other on each item. But many folks are still going to ponder just what a digital toy adds in terms of value.
#39
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Thus I would recommend Google and Amazon as good spot to look for them. When you narrow down a short list that fit your specific criteria, post that and folks can then lean one way or the other on each item. But many folks are still going to ponder just what a digital toy adds in terms of value.
I did narrow down my query: less expensive non-branded versions of Topeak's d-Torq. How much further do you want me to narrow down?
Since I am not asking about the incremental value of a digital toy folks can continue their pondering.
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Well, since most of us aren't familiar with the Topeak unit, maybe just search for a digital torque wrench, scan you results for units that are similar in appearance to the Topeak, and read the reviews. This is not a bike specific tool, so you don't need to be that specific in your search. Should we come over and click the mouse for you too??? I have the click unit posted earlier, and it is more than adequate for any bike related uses.
#41
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Well, since most of us aren't familiar with the Topeak unit, maybe just search for a digital torque wrench, scan you results for units that are similar in appearance to the Topeak, and read the reviews. This is not a bike specific tool, so you don't need to be that specific in your search. Should we come over and click the mouse for you too??? I have the click unit posted earlier, and it is more than adequate for any bike related uses.
You did not have to respond even now and saved the effort involved in the numerous clicks required to post that response.
You also did not have to respond to unasked questions!!
May I suggest taking your own advice and not do anything for me about Topeak d-Torq wrenches?
#42
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Maybe you should reread post #31 . Given the centuries of accumulated knowledge on the inner workings of bicycles on this forum, and the thousands upon thousands of tools purchased by the members over the years, maybe a digital torque wrench isn't necessarily the best solution. Then, since you don't want to spend the money for the real deal (and Topeak has excellent customer service, so that may be worth paying extra), maybe the less expensive click wrench that I use (and was posted by someone else) or something similar may be a better answer. You asked a question, and didn't get quite the answer you were expecting. Take the data that was given freely, and do with it what you will. Looking at your other posts about tools, it seems like you want to get the best tools without breaking the bank. I absolutely agree with that tack. But, if you ask for our advice, be open to whatever opinions and alternate suggestions you receive.
#43
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Maybe you should reread post #31 . Given the centuries of accumulated knowledge on the inner workings of bicycles on this forum, and the thousands upon thousands of tools purchased by the members over the years, maybe a digital torque wrench isn't necessarily the best solution. Then, since you don't want to spend the money for the real deal (and Topeak has excellent customer service, so that may be worth paying extra), maybe the less expensive click wrench that I use (and was posted by someone else) or something similar may be a better answer. You asked a question, and didn't get quite the answer you were expecting. Take the data that was given freely, and do with it what you will. Looking at your other posts about tools, it seems like you want to get the best tools without breaking the bank. I absolutely agree with that tack. But, if you ask for our advice, be open to whatever opinions and alternate suggestions you receive.
Post 31 is not one of the ten commandments.
When you post and offer advice, you should be open to comments--at least according to your standards.
It seems to me you should improve your knowledge about digital torque wrenches before criticizing them.
#44
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Except for a couple of posts, the rest are of no use.
No point in wasting my time in this thread--so I will no longer respond to comments here. Please indulge yourself and post away to your heart's content.
If you have anything useful to say about less expensive versions of Topeak's d-Torq, do pm me.
No point in wasting my time in this thread--so I will no longer respond to comments here. Please indulge yourself and post away to your heart's content.
If you have anything useful to say about less expensive versions of Topeak's d-Torq, do pm me.
#45
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Except for a couple of posts, the rest are of no use.
No point in wasting my time in this thread--so I will no longer respond to comments here. Please indulge yourself and post away to your heart's content.
If you have anything useful to say about less expensive versions of Topeak's d-Torq, do pm me.
No point in wasting my time in this thread--so I will no longer respond to comments here. Please indulge yourself and post away to your heart's content.
If you have anything useful to say about less expensive versions of Topeak's d-Torq, do pm me.
How can you complain of "wasting" your time, when asking others to give their time to help you. For those who've heard the word but may not know the definition this is a perfect example of chutzpah.
Anga, you can be assured that after this I'll never impose on your valuable time by responding to any of your requests for help.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#46
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I found a d-torq used on amazon about 1-1/2 yr ago for $100. I've used the beam & dial types before. I much prefer the d-torq for a few reasons.
1. Don't have to zero out when not in use.
2. Beeps when you reach set torque, and beeps again if you exceed set torque. Makes it almost impossible to overtorque unless you're really not paying attention.
3. Believe it or not, I had it recalibrated after a year's hard use. It was within 5% of original spec.
1. Don't have to zero out when not in use.
2. Beeps when you reach set torque, and beeps again if you exceed set torque. Makes it almost impossible to overtorque unless you're really not paying attention.
3. Believe it or not, I had it recalibrated after a year's hard use. It was within 5% of original spec.
I was looking to understand how my d-torq dx should be calibrated, but had no success.
Where did you get it calibrated?
#47
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If you're not in a major metro area, you might need to send it to one. Luckily these wrenches are fairly small and light, and won't cost much to ship.
#48
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or call your local Snap-on Salesman... they checked my clickers for free... as they showed me tempting new tools that just "happen to be on sale, this week only!"
on mid-torques, i use my old style beam torquer, mostly... one of them dates back 55 years.... it tested nearly spot-on, 15 years ago... he was trying to show me "how bad they are"... i've built several race engines with them... and won a so many trophies that i parted them out and recycled them for other events.

call the Snap-On/Mac/Cornwell truck in your area... you can have them stop in where you work, or meet them at a weekly stop near you... unless you're near me... that guy is a real space case, always forgets to call.
Last edited by maddog34; 09-24-23 at 08:51 PM.