Adding resistance to the steerer
 

Folks,

I recently installed a Di2 group to my CAAD10. Without 2 shifter cables + housings, the steerer is very loose (rotational). Is there a way to add more resistance to the steerer? To be clear, this is not an issue but this makes "look ma no hands" trick a bit complicated.

I would think that adding resistance to rotation would make no-hands riding more difficult, since the rider would have to lean farther to make the wheel start moving, leading to overcontrol.

Assuming it's tight enough that there's no play, any added resistance makes things worse. Steering/balancing involves a constant series of very small corrections. Free steering ensures that these happen quickly providing excellent response to small steering inputs.

Stiffer steering needs stronger inputs to respond, so the response doesn't happen until there are greater steering imbalances, costing you the precise handling you're seeking.

If you want more steering stability, the easiest way is to lower front tire pressure.

Depends on the release date of your components, it might require a firmware update to insure proper gyroscope function.

When holding the front brake tightly there should be no looseness or play between the steer tube and the head tube when rocking the bike forward and backward.

The steerer tube and the head tube fit properly. No play whatsoever.

The tire pressure is 100psi. That's the lowest pressure I'm comfortable with.

I guess I just need to get used to it. Relearn the skill with the current condition. :)

Sure you can crank up the preload on the headset, but that's not good for it... If you don't have play I'd leave it alone.

I don't have trouble riding no hands with properly adjusted (free moving) headsets.

+1 When somebody has slightly overtightened the steering box preload on a car or truck, or the ball joints bind, the driver complains that the steering is "loose." By the time the driver overcomes the friction in the steering the driver has over-corrected -- handling now sucks and because of the large corrections the perceptions is the steering is "loose.". You make microscopic steering corrections constantly and sub-consciously whether with hands on handlebars, hands on the steering wheel of a vehicle, or body weight while riding a bike no-hands. Put very much bind in the headset and try to ride no hands and you will probably fall on your ass.

Don in Austin

The OP has chosen not to consider a proposed solution. It's his choice, and I have no problem with it. He can ride it this way, or he can on experiment if it bothers him enough.

We can lead the horse to water, but he'll only drink when he's thirsty enough.

To the OP, often when riding no hands we sit more erect than our normal riding posture. This shifts the center of gravity farther back and lowers steering forces, which makes handling more skittish. Often bikes like this ride perfectly when the rider assumes his normal riding posture, and even more stable on descents when the front wheel is yet more loaded.

I suggest you finish the build and not sweat the "no hands" issue if it rides well under normal conditions.

Well, the "proposed solution" isn't really practical since front tire pressure below 100 psi (assuming a 700-23 tire or thereabout) is likely to lead to pinch flats for many riders. I think the OP just has to readjust to the lighter steering which should be fairly easy with a bit of time and miles.