Choice of Wheel
 

Hi am new to BF

I am currently in the process of converting an 80's Peugeot (low end) road bike to a single speed. All the components are fine except the rear wheel and hub which the previous owner has replaced with a horrible steel number. Any suggestions for a budget replacment? Would it be cheaper to buy separate hub and rim and build the wheel myself? Cheershttp://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=356424

I don't know about cheaper but, to me at least, it would be a lot more satisfying to buy a rim and spokes and build your own wheel. This looks to me like a perfect time and project for teaching yourself a new skill.

It won't be cheaper. This is an application where there's a large market for machine made wheels, and they serve fine service, if they're properly stressed relieved and touched up before use. If you want somehing very particular, it might make sense to build a wheel. Or it might make sense to build a wheel just because you can. But it won't save you money. Probably not even if you were given a hub, and just had to buy a rim and spokes.

Yeah I have really enjoyed stripping down the frame and rebuilding it from scratch. Though the rear axle was rebuilt more than once until I got it right! Think I have found a new hobby that is going to seriously take up my time! Any thoughts on a good rim/hub combo to start with? especially since I have not done it before. I am kind of overwhelmed by the choice.

Are these 27" wheels?
If so, that limits your choice of rims.
For a good "meat & potatoes" rim, I like the Sun Rims CR-18. Strong enough for tandems and reasonably priced as far as "decent" rims go.
I "don't do" single speed, so I'll leave hub recommendations to others.

What can you tell us about your existing hub? If the cups and cones aren't pitted I'd probably just cut the old spokes and lace a new rim onto it. If you can see any pitting on the cones AT ALL I'd dump your hub in favor of a new one. Building a wheel costs too much time and money to not to end up with something that you can be happy with.

I'd agree with the Sun CR-18 rim choice. I use spoke calc to determine spoke lengths. For a project like this I'd settle for straight 14 ga stainless spokes.

As a generality it will never be cheaper to build any wheel from individual components. A complete wheel will always be less expensive for a given quality. If you want the experience and cost isn't a big issue, go for the individual build.

I've de-dished a nothing special 5 speed freewheel hub.

and, only bought a single speed freewheel. 3/32" = 8 speed chain.

Existing hub seems not too bad though think it is not the original that came with the bike. The rear axle is quite worn, no serious pitting on the cones but the hub has contained bearing housings so i cant see the inner cups to examine for pitting.

I think if i was going to build a new wheel i will do it on my next project! Already learning enough new skills with this bike i think!

Have got my eye on a weinman zac18 wheelset on my local auction website, current bid is around $65. Any thoughts?

Thanks for all the advice re wheel building. Am getting into more serious road riding since i moved to New Zealand a few weeks ago and am planning to aquire/build a bike that will be more appropriate in the near future. All the threads I have read on this forum have been intersting and im sure will come in useful in the future.

I'd go for it. The Zac 18 is a double wall rim so it's a step up from entry level.

To put it into another perspective, I found a CR-18 rim for $25.00. Spokes will cost about $1.00 each. That puts you real close to $65.00 to build it yourself with your existing hub. Also "no serious pitting on the cones" isn't good enough. The tiniest little pit will force you to choose between "crunchy" bearings and too loose.

How does an axle get worn?
Curious minds.....

The threads can wear down where the locknuts are tightened against the cones. I've had axles that I had to offset a skosh to get them to stay in adjustment.

Yeah the threads on my rear axel are knacked...i have to tighten the cone up against the lockring just to provide myself with something to push against to get the nut on the other side.