Am I high on Crack?
#1
Immoderator
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: POS Tennessee
Posts: 7,630
Bikes: Gary Fisher Simple City 8, Litespeed Obed
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
Am I high on Crack?
I was gonna learn how to build a wheel by building a wheel, and I'm thinking of using MTB hubs, which will require some "cold setting", allegedly. But isn't this like swatting a fly with a sledgehammer? Couldn't this problem be solved by lock nuts that were a couple millimeters thinner and/or track nuts? Am I missing something? I've got a steel frame, and I can flex it out to 135-140mm with my hands easily, so is cold setting necessary with a flexy enough frame? Thank you everybody in advance for the generous replies, unless, of course, no one does!
__________________
Originally Posted by Bikeforums
Your rights end where another poster's feelings begin.
#2
53 miles per burrito
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,489
Bikes: Land Shark, Trek 1000, Iron Horse Rogue, Novara Randonee
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Not sure if you are high on crack. That sound like a personal issue on which you need to work.
Just to clarify, are you building this wheel to use on a road bike? Is the current spacing 130mm or 126mm?
It depends, since your stays open so easily, maybe you do not need to cold set. I've used 130mm hubs on several older steel frames with 126mm dropouts with no problems at all.
Just to clarify, are you building this wheel to use on a road bike? Is the current spacing 130mm or 126mm?
It depends, since your stays open so easily, maybe you do not need to cold set. I've used 130mm hubs on several older steel frames with 126mm dropouts with no problems at all.
#3
如果你能讀了這個你講中文
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: New York
Posts: 3,542
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
depends on the spacing. if the rear triangle is 130, you shouldn't have too much problem. if the rear triangle is 126, you're probably also fine. the only issue might be that the derailler hanger migh become skewed outwards with too much flexing. this can be cold set (read: bent) as well, but this is more difficult.
smaller locknuts couldn't hurt, but track nuts have nothing to do with this. track nuts are a fancy kind of axle nut.
also: crack cocaine is an excellent stimulant for a bicycle mechanic
smaller locknuts couldn't hurt, but track nuts have nothing to do with this. track nuts are a fancy kind of axle nut.
also: crack cocaine is an excellent stimulant for a bicycle mechanic
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times
in
364 Posts
Why don't you make the wheel fit the frame rather than worry about making the frame fit the wheel?
Whenever I relace a used hub, I overhaul the hub first. I take it apart clean everything, regrease the bearings and reassemble everything. While you are doing this, look for a 5mm thick washer on the left side and leave it out when you put everything beck together again. You'll probably have to shorten the axle or use a shorter axle.
Whenever I relace a used hub, I overhaul the hub first. I take it apart clean everything, regrease the bearings and reassemble everything. While you are doing this, look for a 5mm thick washer on the left side and leave it out when you put everything beck together again. You'll probably have to shorten the axle or use a shorter axle.
#5
Gone, but not forgotten
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Newtonville, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,301
Bikes: See: https://sheldonbrown.org/bicycles
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
Originally Posted by krispistoferson
I was gonna learn how to build a wheel by building a wheel, and I'm thinking of using MTB hubs, which will require some "cold setting", allegedly. But isn't this like swatting a fly with a sledgehammer? Couldn't this problem be solved by lock nuts that were a couple millimeters thinner and/or track nuts? Am I missing something? I've got a steel frame, and I can flex it out to 135-140mm with my hands easily, so is cold setting necessary with a flexy enough frame? Thank you everybody in advance for the generous replies, unless, of course, no one does!
You might find my Wheelbuilding Article https://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild useful.
As for the spacing issue, considering your frame's ability to flex easily to 135, using a 135 hub is a good idea, because it will result in a stronger wheel.
See also my Frame Spacing Article https://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing
(Track nuts have nothing to do with spacing, they go outside the frame.)
Sheldon "Wider Is Better" Brown
Code:
+-----------------------------------------+ | He not busy being born is busy dying. | | -Bob Dylan | +-----------------------------------------+
#6
Immoderator
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: POS Tennessee
Posts: 7,630
Bikes: Gary Fisher Simple City 8, Litespeed Obed
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
I'll never wash this thread again. Thanks Sheldon. Your wheelbuilding article is what inspired me to build one in the first place. The Harris Cyclery site(in addition to Park Tools,) has pretty much been my primary text for everything I've learned about working on my own bikes. I didn't notice the respacing article. That helps a lot. Wheelbuilding is the one thing I haven't done to my bike, so I'm anxious to try.
__________________
Originally Posted by Bikeforums
Your rights end where another poster's feelings begin.
#7
Listen to me
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Lexus Texas
Posts: 2,788
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
When you swat a fly with a sledgehammer, you only need to do it once. ;-)
So let it be done
Enjoy
#9
Immoderator
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: POS Tennessee
Posts: 7,630
Bikes: Gary Fisher Simple City 8, Litespeed Obed
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
HOWEVER, not to insult anyone's advice, but check this out: My frame spacing is indeed 126mm. Now going up to 135mm is only 4 1/2mm on both sides. Aren't there slimmer locknuts to make cold setting unnecessary? Or will that make the cassette hit the frame or something. I'm not trying to start an arguement or disrespect anyone, I'm just curious if smaller locknuts are an option. It reminds me of the aphorism about how you can cover every square inch of the Earth with leather, or you can wear shoes!
__________________
Originally Posted by Bikeforums
Your rights end where another poster's feelings begin.
#10
The Red Lantern
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 5,965
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If you are using a modern freehub wheel you will not have the 4 1/2 mm on the drive side. You could take it all off the non drive side, but it realy would be easier and give a stronger wheel to elave the wheel at 135 and open up the frame a little. Coldsetting is just a big word for bending something to point x+y to get it to stay at x. It really is pretty simple. The reason to do it rather than spread the frame every time, for me anyway, is that trying to get the wheel in while pulling the frame open is a pain.
__________________
Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. Its free, and only takes 27 seconds!
Help out the forums, abide by our community guidelines.
I am in the woods and I have gone crazy.
Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. Its free, and only takes 27 seconds!
Help out the forums, abide by our community guidelines.
I am in the woods and I have gone crazy.
#11
You need a new bike
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 5,433
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
3 Posts
The locknuts on all my wheels are only about 2 or 3 mm thick to begin with. Some wheels have spacers between the locknuts and the cones. These could be removed to narrow the width.
#12
Gone, but not forgotten
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Newtonville, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,301
Bikes: See: https://sheldonbrown.org/bicycles
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
Originally Posted by krispistoferson
HOWEVER, not to insult anyone's advice, but check this out: My frame spacing is indeed 126mm. Now going up to 135mm is only 4 1/2mm on both sides. Aren't there slimmer locknuts to make cold setting unnecessary? Or will that make the cassette hit the frame or something. I'm not trying to start an arguement or disrespect anyone, I'm just curious if smaller locknuts are an option. It reminds me of the aphorism about how you can cover every square inch of the Earth with leather, or you can wear shoes!
As the Reverend mentioned, there are often spacers on the left side between the cone and the locknut. These can be removed, but this requires increased spoke tension on the right, decreased tension on the left, to bring the rim back to the middle of the frame. The result is a significantly weaker wheel.
Sheldon "It's The Dish" Brown
Code:
+-----------------------------------+ | The gains in life come slowly, | | but the losses come suddenly. | | -- Garrison Keillor | +-----------------------------------+
#13
Immoderator
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: POS Tennessee
Posts: 7,630
Bikes: Gary Fisher Simple City 8, Litespeed Obed
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
Cold-setting it is. Thanks everyone! Now where'd I put that 2X4...
__________________
Originally Posted by Bikeforums
Your rights end where another poster's feelings begin.