Non-Crimp Cable Ends
 

Short version:

Has anyone ever tried these: Jagwire Non-Crimp Cable Ends? If so, any pros/cons?

Long version:

Next season we won't be allowed to race SSCX on multi-speed bikes with shifters disabled, so I need to be able to quickly (between races so under 15 minutes) convert my CX bike from geared to true SS (getting a dedicated SSCX bike is simply not practical at this time).

I'll be set up for 1x10, so it's pretty simple -- remove chain, replace rear wheel with one set up with a single cog and spacers, remove RD and install tensioner, install SS chain. Plan is to just zip tie the RD cable to the chainstay so it stays out of the way, but I can't get the cable through the RD adjuster barrel with a crimp-on cable end, and I'm worried that running with the end unprotected will cause it to get frayed in no time. I've had no luck soldering or super-gluing cable ends (the low-friction coating on the cables seems to interfere), so I'm looking for alternatives. The Jagwire non-crimp ends linked above look promising, but I'm open to other suggestions.

Posting here instead of the CX forum because though my problem is CX specific, the solution (cable ends) seems like a generic bike mechanics thing.

they have shown up in some build cartons..

I like Solder , before cutting , then the cap on the end ..

is to not have puncture wounds ... and is an expected finishing step .

use Zn treated steel and so puling and re greasing is not handicapped by the cut end fraying

something that push on cap wont solve.

So if you change out the rear wheel with one with a single cog, and leave the dlr there, they still won't allow it? Sounds draconian. What you propose is doable. I'd solder the cable, if I went your route.

All that handling is sure to fray the cable ends defeating your purpose.

Best bet is to use a solder compatible with stainless steel and solder the ends. That will let out slip cables in and out reliably without fraying. Also, while the inner wire is out measure cut and solder a backup cable or two, just in case.

I could leave the RD and use the shifter plus RD barrel adjuster to set it (then zip tie the shifter) but I'm not sure if that puts me at increased risk of dropping the chain (since only spring tension keeps the RD from moving left). In any case, I think fiddling around with RD adjustments is probably more time consuming than just swapping in a chain tensioner. Yes, I'll have some RD adjustment going back to geared, but SS is the last wave of the day, so the transition back to geared has the luxury of time (and cleanup, and thawed out fingers :) ).

I wonder if you could zip-tie the RD as well to give the return tension a LOT more stiffness. I'd have to think about that one a little. Maybe a spacer of some sort jammed in there and the zip-tie pulled tight against it.

I suppose you don't have enough derailleur stop screw adjustment to nail the derailleur from both ends over your SS cog.

What about using heat shrink tubing ?

N+1, Just buy a single speed Cross Bike and bring 2 to race day.

resistance is Futile ..

This ^^^ or soldering seem like the most effective options. I've been reading up on how to solder stainless steel and I'm tempted to try that route again -- partly just for the fun of acquiring a new skill :)

I'd be all for N+1 if I wasn't already at S-1.

This is a good solution provided the cable doesn't need to pass through any narrow anchor bolts that might strip off the tubing. Solder always works, but if you have stainless steel cables be sure to use the proper flux and solder.

How about just get some small wire nuts from the electrical department of your nearest hardware store?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twist-on_wire_connector

still won't resolve the frayed ends ..

My first choice would be to solder as well but I've also used a drop of superglue on the ends with usually good results. The glue seems to hold up for at least one or more cable removal and replacements through the housing without fraying.

What is the appropriate solder and flux to use on Stainless cable? I haven't found a solder that works with it. I used to exclusively use this technique BITD when cables weren't stainless. I would like to return to it.

Try this.

I use an acid solder, and lead free solder. Here's a link to some hints on another forum. You can also search "how to solder stainless steel" online.

The flux I use is the same Harris product others mention, but I believe just about any acid flux will work. I wish I could give you the exact solder I use, but it's something like 30 years old and no longer in the original package. (you use very little of this stuff and the smallest purchase will outlast you and generations of descendents)

I am a super glue user. fast and clean

Me too, but I have not tested it for repeated install/remove cycles.

I've put this flux on my wish list. Depending on shelf life, it should last a few lifetimes. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007BGYQEC/...I1B32K1NAXYQ4C

Would this work with regular solder or would it require special silver solder?

Anyone actually use this on SS cable? How does it work?

I'd love to be able to solder cable ends again!

I think regular solders should work.
http://www.superiorflux.com/rubyfluid_flux.html
http://rubyfluidflux.com/uploads/New...duct_Sheet.pdf
http://rubyfluidflux.com/uploads/TDS...less_Steel.pdf
http://rubyfluidflux.com/uploads/Rub..._Flux_MSDS.pdf

Looks like you are right. I wonder if it discolors the SS cable -turns it black after soldering or if the solder helps this at all?

The thing to remember is that the fumes can be really toxic. Zinc inhaled is bad and you can get really sick -even permanently wreck your lungs. My dad has COPD pretty bad from years of being an electrician and a welder. Welding galvanized metal and SS is seriously bad crap. Being tied to an oxygen hose 24/7 is not the way I want to spend the rest of my life...

Use adequate venting!

Found this in there too: "Superior RubyFluid Stainless Steel has a two (2) year shelf life."

A super cheap easy solution is to just use superglue.

OP: "I've had no luck soldering or super-gluing cable ends (the low-friction coating on the cables seems to interfere), so I'm looking for alternatives."

Why don't you get an in-line cable separator?

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=362006

http://www.sandsmachine.com/ac_cable.htm