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Bike Building Guide?

Old 01-30-14, 01:58 AM
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Bike Building Guide?

I'm getting close to having all the parts to build CX bike from an old frame. I'm looking for a guide for assembly. I've only done a few basic repairs. Crankset might be a bit intimidating, but I will have pro help for that one
Also, some tips on what get what grease where and what gets what loctite etc.
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Old 01-30-14, 02:24 AM
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The manufacturers' web sites (Shimano, Campy, etc.) should have instructions for installing everything they make. These are exact instructions for each specific model of component. also has great instructions for newer components (also available in book form if you prefer). Crankset is not a big deal as long as you got the right component for your frame and you use the right tool. Headset can be more complicated on some frames.
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Old 01-30-14, 06:58 AM
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It's Going To Be A Long, Detailed Listing...


1) structure (frame, headset roughly adjusted, stem/handlebar, seatpost, saddle)
2) Wheels (off-bike, adjust/grease hubs), grease freehub/cassette interface, cassette, hand stress spokes)
3) drivetrain (bottom bracket, cranks, derailleurs, shifters, rear wheel)
4) shift cables (align derailleurs by hand, add cabling, add chain, rear derailleur fine tuning, front derailleur fine tuning)
5) front wheel on
6) brakes (calipers, cabling, straddles, shoe placement, pad toe-in)
7) true rims
8) mount tubes and tires, rimstrips if not originally supplied.
9) pedals, handlebar tape
10) put bike on trainer
10) saddle position and shifting - fine adjustment and readjust for cable seating

Grease all threaded fasteners and components (bottom bracket, cable tension adjusters,etc). Specialized anti-seize for carbon-to-aluminum interfaces, or carbon-carbon, grease press-fit interfaces handlebar clamp, stem clamp. No grease/lubricant for modern, lined cable-to-housing interface (but there's some debate about this).

Use your component web-based tech instructions for installation/adjustment guidance. Make certain that your cables (especially on the front derailleur) feed properly over the tab at the cable clamp, as this affects the proper throw of the derailleur.

Good luck.
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Old 01-30-14, 08:28 AM
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"What grease", "which Locktite" and "how about anti-seize" questions have lead to long and often acrimonious threads here. A search should keep you entertained for quite a long time. Briefly, here is my take:

I use Phil Grease for all bearings and threaded fasteners. Yes it is overpriced but it works very well and you use so little that the cost shouldn't be a major consideration, particularly if you buy it in tubs, not the 3-oz tubes. Otherwise, any moderate body grease from an auto parts store will work too. You don't want a super stiff grease.

Anti-seize is suitable for threaded fasteners particularly if you are dealing with dissimilar metals (aluminum or steel fittings in a Ti frame for example) but isn't essential and is very messy to work with.

Locktite shouldn't be needed for any properly made fasteners unless the manufacturer specifies it as for some press-fit bottom brackets. If you want to use it on threaded fasteners, be sure to use one of the weaker grades (Blue Grade 242 or Purple Grade 222) since they will let you disassemble the parts later with only hand tools. Stronger grades require heat to disassemble and are not needed anywhere on a bicycle.
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Old 01-30-14, 08:52 AM
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If your new and unsure of the procedures, like it seems you are, take your time and tackle one thing at a time; research it, read up, figure it out, then do it.
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Old 01-30-14, 10:36 AM
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Good advice above. I use Tef-Gel instead of anti-seize on dissimilar metal joints and threaded joints heavily exposed to water/salt such as bottom bracket threads, pedal threads, cassette lock rings, quill stem wedge bolts, steel bolts into aluminum components (think derailleur limit screws and stem clamp bolts) and the like.

A torque wrench, two actually, for smaller and larger fasteners, is better than guessing especially for the less-experienced mechanic. Mandatory for carbon components. People tend to overtorque smaller fasteners and undertorque large ones. Common culprits for being damaged as a result of undertorquing and subsequent loosening are pedal threads and square taper ends on cranks. Bottom brackets require a surprising amount of torque.
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