Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Issue with changing pedals

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Issue with changing pedals

Old 02-08-14, 04:02 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Central Coast, California
Posts: 613

Bikes: Niner RLT 9 4 Star, Kona Splice, Nashbar Carbon road bike

Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Issue with changing pedals

Need some help here guys, I just bought a set of Shimano Click'R PD-T400 pedals to put on my Kona Splice. I am unable to get the old pedals off my bike, using my adjustable wrench I can't get the pedal bolts to budge. Any tips or tricks here?

This is only a 6 month old bike, and yes I am aware the left side pedal is opposite threaded.
KonaRider125 is offline  
Old 02-08-14, 04:07 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
curbtender's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
Posts: 7,849

Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball

Liked 2,871 Times in 1,316 Posts
One foot on the other pedal and one foot on your wrench...
curbtender is offline  
Old 02-08-14, 04:08 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
curbtender's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
Posts: 7,849

Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball

Liked 2,871 Times in 1,316 Posts
I'd use a fixed wrench.
curbtender is offline  
Old 02-08-14, 04:09 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
bikeman715's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Salinas , Ca.
Posts: 2,646

Bikes: Bike Nashbar AL-1 ,Raligh M50 , Schwinn Traveler , and others

Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Try spraying from the backside of the crank with something like WD-40 . Use a cheater bar on the wrench to break losses the pedals . When put on the new ones grease the treads or in a pinch plumper's tape so it be easier the next time .
bikeman715 is offline  
Old 02-08-14, 04:11 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 39,282

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Liked 3,127 Times in 1,725 Posts
The trick is simply more leverage, and stabilizing the crank so it doesn't turn.

Removing pedals involves tuning the tops to the back (both sides) . This means the crank will rotate making the job harder. So step one is to arrange the pedal wrench back toward the crank arm to minimize the torque turning the entire crank.

My favorite (no bike stand) method for freeing tough pedals is to turn the crank so the the pedal I'm removing is toward the front. Place the wrench on pointing backward (toward center of the crank), and rotate the cranks so the wrench is nearly horizontal, and support the opposite crank in that position. Straddle the bike, place foot on the wench and stand suddenly as if starting from the curb.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 02-08-14, 04:15 PM
  #6  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,595

Bikes: 8

Liked 1,361 Times in 867 Posts
Pedal wrenches are made 1/8" thick for a reason .. your Adjustable wrench is too thick ..
fietsbob is offline  
Old 02-08-14, 04:18 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 39,282

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Liked 3,127 Times in 1,725 Posts
Originally Posted by fietsbob
Pedal wrenches are made 1/8" thick for a reason .. your Adjustable wrench is too thick ..
Unlike earlier designs, most pedals today have clearance for wider wrenches, with clear shaft to the outside of the wrench flats. In any case, if the ability to slide the wench on were the problem, the OP would have described it as such rather than saying he can't get the pedal to budge.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 02-08-14, 04:24 PM
  #8  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,595

Bikes: 8

Liked 1,361 Times in 867 Posts
Of course some have no 15 mm flats at all , exclusively allen wrench fitting ..

often it's 6mm, my Ergon's use an 8.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 02-08-14, 04:27 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 2,243

Bikes: Specialized Sequoia Elite/Motobecane Fantom Cross Team Ti/'85 Trek 520

Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
I would not use an adjustable wrench. They have too much play to allow transfer of torque efficiently. I have used a good 15mm wrench to break pedals free. I used a pipe slipped over the wrench for additional leverage.

As far as I'm concerned, adjustable wrenches are only really useful for adjusting headsets when one doesn't have the proper headset wrench.
bobotech is offline  
Old 02-08-14, 05:03 PM
  #10  
Senior Member
 
dsbrantjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,326

Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta

Liked 1,101 Times in 729 Posts
Get a proper pedal wrench or a long pattern open end wrench. Put the wrench on the pedal such that the wrench is closest to the crank. Some Kroil or PB Blaster may be needed to help you break the threads loose. Be sure to clean and grease the threads before reinstalling them. I use TefGel to avois electrolytic corrosion of the dissimilar metals.
dsbrantjr is offline  
Old 02-08-14, 05:47 PM
  #11  
Cottered Crank
 
Amesja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 3,401

Bikes: 1954 Raleigh Sports 1974 Raleigh Competition 1969 Raleigh Twenty 1964 Raleigh LTD-3

Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times in 8 Posts
I find it easiest if you can position the pedal wrench handle just in front of the crank and pointing back towards the spindle. Then you can just squeeze the wrench against crank itself. I have little trouble getting even the most stuck pedal spindles loose using this method as long as I can get the wrench close enough to the crank so I can grip them both in the right (loosening) orientation. I have pretty decent hand-strength though and a decently long pedal wrench. With your hands nearly at the pedal spindle this is a LOT of leverage.

Having a crow-foot 15mm socket and a ratchet wrench makes this technique possible no matter what direction the pedal flats are oriented.
Amesja is offline  
Old 02-08-14, 05:54 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
NVanHiker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 596

Bikes: 2008 Giant FCR2, 1992 Raleigh hybrid, my son's old mountain bike

Liked 9 Times in 7 Posts
I broke down and paid the twenty bucks for a pedal wrench at MEC (equivalent of REI). Well worth it. Maybe you can borrow one?
NVanHiker is offline  
Old 02-08-14, 06:16 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Central Coast, California
Posts: 613

Bikes: Niner RLT 9 4 Star, Kona Splice, Nashbar Carbon road bike

Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks guys, got my new pedals on. The stand on wrench method FBinNY mentioned worked!!
KonaRider125 is offline  
Old 02-08-14, 06:37 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,255

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Liked 4,071 Times in 2,412 Posts
Did the OP put some grease on the new pedal's threads to make the next removal easier? Andy.
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 02-08-14, 07:21 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 39,282

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Liked 3,127 Times in 1,725 Posts
Originally Posted by KonaRider125
Thanks guys, got my new pedals on. The stand on wrench method FBinNY mentioned worked!!
Glad it worked. Don't forget AS's advice to grease the threads before installing the next pair.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 02-08-14, 08:20 PM
  #16  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Central Coast, California
Posts: 613

Bikes: Niner RLT 9 4 Star, Kona Splice, Nashbar Carbon road bike

Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I did make sure to put grease on the threads of the new pedals, thanks again guys.
KonaRider125 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
EveryManALion
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
5
02-25-12 02:57 PM
thingsthatgo
Bicycle Mechanics
4
01-21-12 09:03 AM
atlas750
Bicycle Mechanics
10
09-04-11 07:12 PM
Gege-Bubu
Bicycle Mechanics
12
03-07-11 10:06 PM
himespau
General Cycling Discussion
22
08-25-10 12:01 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Your Privacy Choices -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.