Rim faliure?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Berlare, Belgium
Posts: 331
Bikes: Provex (centaur carbon) 2009 - cube litening super hpc race 2013
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Rim faliure?
So today I was out riding and it was quite windy so I couldn't hear anything but the wind. Once the wind calmed down, I heared a 'rubbing' noise when using my front brake. So I thought it was just a simple barb on the brake track, nothing a quick sand couldn't fix. But when I took a closer look I noticed that the noise came from the seam of the rim passing the brake pads. So I checked my back wheel to see if I could see the seam on the brake track a easy as I could on the front. In the back I couldn't see nor feel the seam where as in the front I could see and feel it. It seems to me that the seam has come apart, but nothing major, only like a tenth of a milimeter or less. So here's my question, does this affect the stength of the wheel in a big way or is it safe to ride after a quick sand to get rid of the noise? Or should I simply take it to my LBS? Since the bike is less than 7 months old and still under waranty. Note that the 'opening' is very tiny and maybe not even worth the hassle.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 9,438
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
Since it is under warranty, you should take it back. It's quite possible that the wheel was built with insufficient spoke tension or that the rim is defective.
#3
Banned
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: lower mitten
Posts: 1,555
Bikes: With round 700c & 26" wheels
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Sadly many rims are made that way. My guess / without seeing it / that you can remove it with sanding that spot with sand paper / I'm guessing again it's an aluminum rim /. Just double check for crack...If there is any, even small one - take the rim to your LBS for warranty replacement.
Post a pic of that area and rim name. Some veterans would love to see it to share their valuable opinions.
Post a pic of that area and rim name. Some veterans would love to see it to share their valuable opinions.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Berlare, Belgium
Posts: 331
Bikes: Provex (centaur carbon) 2009 - cube litening super hpc race 2013
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Sadly many rims are made that way. My guess / without seeing it / that you can remove it with sanding that spot with sand paper / I'm guessing again it's an aluminum rim /. Just double check for crack...If there is any, even small one - take the rim to your LBS for warranty replacement.
Post a pic of that area and rim name. Some veterans would love to see it to share their valuable opinions.
Post a pic of that area and rim name. Some veterans would love to see it to share their valuable opinions.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Berlare, Belgium
Posts: 331
Bikes: Provex (centaur carbon) 2009 - cube litening super hpc race 2013
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#7
Banned
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: lower mitten
Posts: 1,555
Bikes: With round 700c & 26" wheels
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
If you feel same rubbing noise/feeling after sanding it again - your rim may be cracked.
#8
Banned
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: lower mitten
Posts: 1,555
Bikes: With round 700c & 26" wheels
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
You did it! Good job, awesome close ups. It looks EXACTLY the same as on many other rims. Annoying, but nothing to worry about.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Berlare, Belgium
Posts: 331
Bikes: Provex (centaur carbon) 2009 - cube litening super hpc race 2013
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#11
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,776
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3582 Post(s)
Liked 3,394 Times
in
1,928 Posts
What kind of rim is this? Many modern rims are welded and the sidewalls machined for a uniform braking surface. This is a fairly recent development, though: the traditional means of closing a rim was a plug that held the ends together. Sometimes the edges of the joint don't quite line up, creating the effect you describe. Since this is a front wheel, you can just turn the wheel around so that the joint passes under the pads in the opposite direction. Sometimes this is enough. Or you could do as fietsbob suggests and file it smooth. Or simply be patient until the brake pads themselves eventually do this for you.
#13
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,776
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3582 Post(s)
Liked 3,394 Times
in
1,928 Posts
Yes, the OP's rim looks to be pinned rather than welded. But if the spokes are properly tensioned, the joint should not shift even in the absence of the pin.
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Berlare, Belgium
Posts: 331
Bikes: Provex (centaur carbon) 2009 - cube litening super hpc race 2013
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
What kind of rim is this? Many modern rims are welded and the sidewalls machined for a uniform braking surface. This is a fairly recent development, though: the traditional means of closing a rim was a plug that held the ends together. Sometimes the edges of the joint don't quite line up, creating the effect you describe. Since this is a front wheel, you can just turn the wheel around so that the joint passes under the pads in the opposite direction. Sometimes this is enough. Or you could do as fietsbob suggests and file it smooth. Or simply be patient until the brake pads themselves eventually do this for you.
Thanks for the help.
#15
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,776
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3582 Post(s)
Liked 3,394 Times
in
1,928 Posts
Your pictures look to be of a pinned rim. This isn't a bad thing: there's no strength difference between pinned and welded rims, and the lack of machining on the brake track means more material to wear through before you need to replace the rim.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,662
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5766 Post(s)
Liked 2,537 Times
in
1,404 Posts
... the traditional means of closing a rim was a plug that held the ends together. Sometimes the edges of the joint don't quite line up, creating the effect you describe. Since this is a front wheel, you can just turn the wheel around so that the joint passes under the pads in the opposite direction....
Rims have been pinned since the advent of hollow aluminum rims. The cumulative spoke tension keeps the rim under compression and holds the joint closed, so there was never a need to weld. These joints rarely move except in major events which force the entire wheel seriously out of true.
So if this is a change from before, as opposed to being this way all along, odds are you reversed the wheel at some point, and reversing it back will solve the problem.
In any case, consider the issue to be like a shingled roof. You want to have the wheel so the brake shoes go down the step in the right direction.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times
in
364 Posts
+1Rims have been pinned since the advent of hollow aluminum rims. The cumulative spoke tension keeps the rim under compression and holds the joint closed, so there was never a need to weld. These joints rarely move except in major events which force the entire wheel seriously out of true.
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: River City, OR
Posts: 672
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Not necessarily. Even today the majority of the rims I see are "pinned." Nothing at all wrong with this joining method. Just do as others have suggested and flip the wheel in the fork.
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Berlare, Belgium
Posts: 331
Bikes: Provex (centaur carbon) 2009 - cube litening super hpc race 2013
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
My mistake, thought welding was the more recent method. On the bright side, a little sand with a 180 grid did the trick. Now there's only a little noise left, which will be taken care of by my brake pads. Thanks again for giving me peace of mind that my rims will not fail on me.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 2,243
Bikes: Specialized Sequoia Elite/Motobecane Fantom Cross Team Ti/'85 Trek 520
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
My brand new Mavic rims that I built up recently were of pinned construction. You did right, sand till smoother or flip wheel and call it a day.
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Llano Estacado
Posts: 3,702
Bikes: old clunker
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 684 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 105 Times
in
83 Posts
Good point. To the OP: I'd try reversing the wheel per FB or, at a maximum, consider having spoke tension checked. I'd probably not sand the rim.
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,662
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5766 Post(s)
Liked 2,537 Times
in
1,404 Posts
Thanks for the credit, but John T. suggested it first.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.