Spoke tension
Something i noticed is that when i build my wheels, and they are all true and pretty when i go over with the tensiometer i find it common that some of the "pairs" are almost opposite. Meaning that on my Tm-1 the reading for 1 spoke might be at 18 and the one next to it, in the pair might be at 22. This is very common on every pair, so i always go out after and sort of balance the two out and i end up alright. Im wondering if what happens to my wheels is a common thing, if not, how can i prevent it? If i cant its alright, i dont mind going after and balancing the tension im just looking to save time.
|
actually the hi-lo tension pairing is common, and a competent wheelbuilder will correct it. tighten/loosen corresponding spokes around the pairs to bring the lo tension up and the high tension down. its not too hard and you can get the tension pretty close all the way around. some say +/-20% tension deviations are good enough, but i try to get it around +/-10%.
|
well yea i usually get around 20%, sometimes less. I just want to know if theres some technique during the actual building that will do away with this, or at least reduce it. Instead of going after all is done and correcting it
|
the way i do it is alternate trueing laterally/radially, and tensioning. adjusting the tensions as i go. if you alternate enough and adjust the hi/lo tensions by the time its finally tensioned and true it should be pretty close and not need too much more fiddling with the tensions.
|
Originally Posted by legalize_it
actually the hi-lo tension pairing is common, and a competent wheelbuilder will correct it. tighten/loosen corresponding spokes around the pairs to bring the lo tension up and the high tension down. its not too hard and you can get the tension pretty close all the way around. some say +/-20% tension deviations are good enough, but i try to get it around +/-10%.
|
It's quite common. When I started using a tensiometer, I was surprised at how much spoke tension varience I could have in a wheel that was both straight and round.
|
Originally Posted by Wheel Doctor
It also depends on the rim construction, rim quality,rim rigidity, condition of the rim, spoke pattern, dish etc.
|
Originally Posted by phantomcow2
im just looking to save time.
With high quality parts I can get within 10% on an initial build. After the wheel has been ridden several hundred miles I can usually get closer. Al |
Originally Posted by Al1943
To me, saving time is not part of the wheel truing process.
With high quality parts I can get within 10% on an initial build. After the wheel has been ridden several hundred miles I can usually get closer. Al Well i know i usually get it in good spoke tension when im all done, except on my last wheels they had a rather large "bulge" on the seam, also causing a radial bump. |
Originally Posted by phantomcow2
on my last wheels they had a rather large "bulge" on the seam, also causing a radial bump.
I really like your cow moniker! Al |
yea it was a defective rim. I would complain but i mean i got those rims (sub IV from Sun) on sale for 15 bucks a piece! It doesnt have any effect of riding at all, it just menas it pisses me off because its a 1mm bulge and i dont like the way it looks when i spin the wheel hard and expect to see a pretty straight thing. Thanks, I made the cow thing in image ready
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:42 PM. |
Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.