I always use clockwise and counterclockwise.

So, for the right crank, tighten (pedal goes in) by turning clockwise.
Loosen (pedal goes out) by turning it counterclockwise.

The same will be true with threading from the back side.

You can always thread the pedal with your thumbnail in the groove to see which direction the threads will take you.

Problem is that the turn direction depends on where you're standing.

Let's say that you're standing on the right side of the bike and fitting a right pedal, then yes, you turn it clockwise. But you now decide to thread it into the back of the crank. If you move to the other side of the bike you'll be facing the other way and still turn it clockwise.

But if you stay put on the right side, and simply reach around the crank and thread it from the back side, now everything is reversed clockwise to the pedal, is coun ter-clockwise to you.

Right/Left, clockwise/counter, or whatever, it's about frame of reference. This is a common issue for people new to working on wheels. Like any right hand nut, you tighten a nipple clockwise --- IF you're looking down on it from outside the rim and using a screw or nut driver. But most of the time you're looking out from the hub side, and using a spoke wrench, and from that point of view, "clockwise" is counter-clockwise.

How about clockwise to move the part away from you.

I want to thank you very much for your advice, it all made sense when I started actually doing the job. The person I bought the bike from really flubbed up the threads in the beginning of the crank (when you first insert the pedal) but the pedal caught on and was/is tight on the last 1/3 of the crank. It enabled me to get a pretty snug fit and I was able to apply some pretty good torque to it to tighten it but not over tighten it. I took it for a five mile ride and was mostly spinning it instead of mashing it but I did put some pretty good torque on it and so far so good.
On a really good note, I found a shop that will repair the threads for 15-20 bucks.