Lacquering/clear coat frame n forks after metal polish,,,,
 

Have searched master G (Google) with no avail...

So, just got a lovely shine on my steel frame with some T CUT metal Polish..

Heading out to buy Lacquer now...

Obviously I don;t want to sand it down as you would with paint, I am guessing this new shiny looking steel frame n forks are just good to spray and clear coat?

I would be tempted to use a auto body wax and grease remover first (after testing small area) the polish may repel the clear coat, making a mess.

is this stripped down to just a bare frame ? acetone to remove even the slightest hint of oil,

even that from your hands , touching it while you were polishing it ..

yeah it is a bare metal frame, sanded upto p2000 paper, then t cut metal polish to polsih it up...

so what is the next move? will accetone and wax remover not spoil the polish??

any oil and the clear coat wont go on well .. polishing compound is really just a really fine abrasive ..

I remember a sales rep come in to the shop with a polished "Steelman" bare frame (1980's). He said that it was covered in Hairspray. It looked pretty good

remember a sales rep come in to the shop with a polished "Steelman" bare frame (1980's). He said that it was covered in Hairspray. It looked pretty good

The irony on here is horrendous :)

So guys, can anyone suggest a product that won't ruin my polish?

Most metal polishes are the abrasive suspended in an oil base.

there you go then use a volatile solvent to remove any oil residue when you are done , like I said.

Quick question on polishing...

Can you apply too much TCUT metal polish?? Or any metal polish for that matter??

As in does there come a time when you should just concentrate on buffing??

haha

Use Dupont Prep-Sol (or your local equivalent) to remove any traces of oil or wax left behind by the polish before you attempt to apply any sort of finish.

I suggested that in post #2 without being brand specific...I think it was ignored.

Will rubbing alcohol do?

Yes, it should be okay.

Opinions Differ .. the way the job comes out will tell you if it was good enough.

to many unseen variables to say , from here.

Unless the steel is stainless, don't expect it to stay shiny for very long. Moisture will penetrate through the lacquer or clear coat and start rust formation. Primer paints applied under the top coats are designed to seal moisture out, but will not allow the polished look you want. I suspect rubbing alcohol might not be the best for removing oils, as it is usually about 30% water, which will allow rust to form.

Can't win here can we?

Guess it's trial an error... Though I don't have too many old bikes and too much time to be trialing with...

Might do some research on Master G to see if there are some sacred methods to save my beloved polish.

Just found this..

Some interesting reading..

http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...lear-coat.html

So the main thing I can gather is it is about preparation. Leaving your metal as clean as possible.

Possible to clearcoat bare metal? - XS650 Forum

Good article ^

So if rubbing alcoho leaves 30% water residue, what can i use that will leave 0% or as close as? (in regards to rubbing away the oils and wax)

anyone know any UK alternatives to Dupont Prep-Sol??

For a high-gloss finish use urethane instead of lacquer.

If you have a sprayer, I've had good luck using clear coat sold at autozone on wood speaker projects :)

Actually not wanting a 'gloss' as such, just going to let the polished steel shine (hopefully if i get the coating right)

No sprayer no, though would like to try one... Just going to use a can for this one I think..


Anyone know any alternatives to Dupont Prep-Sol?? Sounds like it might be what i need for preparing the frame n forks for clear coating..

Rubbing alcohol is not 30% water, it is about 9% (V/V) and the water evaporates at exactly the same rate as the propanol for the same reason it's there in the first place: this is the azeotropic point for propanol.

That being said, it's a lousy solvent for grease and oil (it's OK for fats eg fingermarks)

Prep-sol appears to be a low MW hydrocarbon. If you are using a clear lacquer, I'd use the thinner specified for that lacquer as a substitute.

It won't stay shiny, it oxidizes under the clear.