What type of replacement headset bearings do I use in my 1993 Trek 5200 OCLV?
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What type of replacement headset bearings do I use in my 1993 Trek 5200 OCLV?
I have a 1993 Trek 5200 OCLV bike the headset bearings are bad. What type of bearings do I need to replace them and where can I purchase them?
Mike
Mike
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Given the date, I suspect (but don't know), that you have a pressed in headset. In that case, you don't generally replace the bearings, you replace the entire headset. (some more info here)
However "my headset bearings are bad" is pretty vague. I can't tell you if you need a headset or not based on that.
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OK that makes it pretty easy. The races are shot, so you need a new headset.
If you have a quill stem, odds favor a 1" headset. To confirm, measure the outside diameter of the stem, and the fork is 1/8" larger. Then search for a ISO 1" threaded headset (there are plenty to choose from).
Tou'll need some tools (some of which can be improvised) to remove the old one, especially the crown race on the fork. Then other tools (which can be improvised) to install the new one.
This isn't difficult, but the tools can add considerably, so the best bet may be a bike co-op if there's one near you. That way you can get access to tools and guidance all at a nominal cost.
Otherwise, plenty of tutorials available on replacing headsets.
If you have a quill stem, odds favor a 1" headset. To confirm, measure the outside diameter of the stem, and the fork is 1/8" larger. Then search for a ISO 1" threaded headset (there are plenty to choose from).
Tou'll need some tools (some of which can be improvised) to remove the old one, especially the crown race on the fork. Then other tools (which can be improvised) to install the new one.
This isn't difficult, but the tools can add considerably, so the best bet may be a bike co-op if there's one near you. That way you can get access to tools and guidance all at a nominal cost.
Otherwise, plenty of tutorials available on replacing headsets.
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#7
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You need a 1" threaded headset. You can spend anywhere from $10 to (probably) $150 or more on a really fancy one. A $20 one is all you need.
On a 21 year old carbon frame, unless you have the PROPER tools to do this I would highly recommend having a competent shop do it. And I'm usually one to recommend doing everything yourself. A pressed in headset needs to be hammered out and a new one needs to be pressed in. If you do it wrong, you can easily ruin your frame.
On a 21 year old carbon frame, unless you have the PROPER tools to do this I would highly recommend having a competent shop do it. And I'm usually one to recommend doing everything yourself. A pressed in headset needs to be hammered out and a new one needs to be pressed in. If you do it wrong, you can easily ruin your frame.
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I've come across many headsets which you'd swear were done for by the feel, actually turn out to be perfectly serviceable given an overhaul and careful adjustment, even in spite of some false brinelling.
The divots in the cups and/or cones usually only make much difference if the headset's too tight, and once you have the balls out and in, they don't line up anymore. They might in future, but you can rotate the cups too...
Headset doesn't have a real tough brief usually - you can get stuff that looks like junk to ride no-hands without rattling.
The divots in the cups and/or cones usually only make much difference if the headset's too tight, and once you have the balls out and in, they don't line up anymore. They might in future, but you can rotate the cups too...
Headset doesn't have a real tough brief usually - you can get stuff that looks like junk to ride no-hands without rattling.
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Only 1993 Trek 5200s I have seen are like my 1993 5900, threadless, not threaded.
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No idea myself but:
History and Revisions of the TREK OCLV Frameset
In 2000, the fork switched to a 1" threadless design.
History and Revisions of the TREK OCLV Frameset
In 2000, the fork switched to a 1" threadless design.
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No idea myself but:
History and Revisions of the TREK OCLV Frameset
In 2000, the fork switched to a 1" threadless design.
History and Revisions of the TREK OCLV Frameset
In 2000, the fork switched to a 1" threadless design.