Does a hub with these specs exist?
 

Or have they ever?

130 mm OLD
High flange
36 hole
Freehub for 7-10 speeds
Cup and cone
Silver
Rim brake

Here you go: Hubs ? SunXCD - Bicycle Components
I'm not sure about the bearings... sometimes "sealed bearing" means cup & cone with full-contact seals.

The Suzue Classica appears to have cup & cone bearings:
Suzue Classica 10-sp Road Hubs(Rear)

Long ago, Shimano made a 6-speed 600EX high-flange cassette hub, but I've never seen one in the flesh:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/shimano1982/images/24.jpg

Not that I'm aware of. Jeff identified the 600EX hub, but this was 6-speed for Uniglide cogs. A rare sharp mechanic would know how to modify this hub shell to take a 8/9/10 Hyperglide cassette body, but few would try.

Personally, I would go with a low-flange Shimano freehub, of which there obviously many options. There is no hub better than the Dura-Ace 7700, no matter how much money you are willing to pay. Superior cup and cone spec (not low-end cartridge bearing design), and top-end materials and finish.

And frankly, all things being equal, the low flange hubs produce a lighter overall wheel, with no difference in wheel stiffness or ride quality.

Avoid the orphaned 7800/7801 generation. Avoid the 11-speed hubs - the cassette body is getting so wide to fit the absurd proliferation of cogs, that wheel strength is compromised.

I think the only spec you require (cup and cone) is going to be hard to come by in a new hub. Both that Jeff referenced appear to use a sealed cartridge bearing. The lack of cone nuts, and the appearance of the end caps is typical of all cartridge bearing hubs. I know a bunch of us like to have control over bearing preload, but really this bearing type in a hub is working really good.

Seems Current Shimano tandem hubs are pretty large flange and cup and cone , you change the axles to be shorter.
body no wider than the road stuff just axle's longer on the left end.

ignore the brake threading on the left end .

8-10 cog clusters are a different driver , than the past 7 speed ones..

but are made in 40 & 48 hole maybe get the 48 and build it skipping holes to 36

build it with a rim that has a brake track.. rim is a separate choice.

Electra Ticino cassette hubs.

Edit sorry they're cartridge bearing!

- joel

The SunXCD and Suzue hubs have sealed cartridge bearings as do the Electra Ticinos. I'm not interested in ceramic cartridge bearings. FWIW don't bother building a rear wheel using a Suzue Classica cassette hub. The flanges are so close to one another that when you reach tension on the drive side you have lower than average tension on the non-drive sideand the rim still needs to come further to the drive side. I know of one other person experiencing this issue with the Suzues. Anyone else?

Another possibility: my wife's bike has a Deore XT FH-M756 rear disk hub (large flange, cup & cone bearings). Since her bike has V-brakes in the rear, I removed the disk mounts on a lathe. I then polished the whole shell to make it pretty.

IIRC, the dustcap under the rubber shield isn't really pretty. It might interchange with something from a road hub, but I haven't tried it. I left the hub as you see it since her bike's OLD is 135mm.

I started with this:

http://www.petracycles.co.uk/images_...no/fhm756s.jpg

and ended with this:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...38109015_n.jpg

If you are set on this spec, go with a Shimano mountain hub, then remove the correct spacers (you can get am exploded parts diagram for most Shimano hubs online by googling the part number) to arrive at 130mm. Depending on the hub, you may need to purchase a new thin spacer.

A disc hub is a terrible starting point if you need 130mm OLD. To make room for the disc, the flange spacing decreases significantly. Any wheel robustness advantage the OP thinks he would get with large flanges is going to be instantly lost due to the narrower flange spacing.

But high-flange hubs look cool!