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Modern Canti's not working on '86 Schwinn Passage, help!

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Modern Canti's not working on '86 Schwinn Passage, help!

Old 05-14-14, 09:17 PM
  #26  
holycalamity
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Originally Posted by bikemig View Post
No; I use lowriders in front. But it was a total non-issue; the modolos were designed back in the day when canti posts were closer together. Here is a thread with some info on this, https://www.bikeforums.net/recreation...nce-issue.html
Awesome, good to know! Definitely an option.
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Old 05-14-14, 09:52 PM
  #27  
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having used these brakes I will say that the springs are rather stiff and have a very narrow operation range

modern frames have 3 spring tension holes to allow large spring calibration range changes, ( critical for the springs on this brake )
your frame has only a single spring mount option, and it is clearly far outside what the brake needs

so bend the springs
with pliers
outwards so they engage the brake arms and still have tension left
really
bend the springs

also, its hard to tell from photos but stud spacing may be too narrow

the tranverse link wire length will be critical adjustment for brake power, but that's later...
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Old 05-14-14, 11:02 PM
  #28  
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s
Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
This is the least of your problems, and if the tire can clear to remove the wheel with the shoe trapped under the stay it's a non-problem. However it's nor related to the spring problem. The spring should be engaged fully when the brake is closed, and drive shoe into the frame, and beyond Iif not stopped).

So, don't fret the non-issue. Check if the swing of the arms and thickness and angle of the shoes allows adjustment for a square strike on the rim. (can't see for sure either way in the video because of camera angle) If so, the brakes pass, and all you need to do is figure out where you're going wrong with the springs. If not, see if you can thin the washer stack, or measure your shoes against low profile shoes like KS thinlines.

Sometimes, you need o know your limits and quit when ahead (or at least not hopelessly behind). If there's a decent co-op get local, eyes and hands on help.
I think I found the fix for these brakes and it was kind of a duh moment. I just manually bent the spring arm backwards at a reasonable degree to increase tension on the brake arm. This only worked in conjunction with screwing in the spring adjusting bolt all the way, which didn't allow for much tweak. So I returned them. Doing this along with removing some of the front washers, as you mentioned, would have allowed these to be functional. I decided against them though, as they span too wide and will get in the way of panniers.

So yeah, the tire was able to clear the brake gap either way, and I was able to adjust for a nearly square strike. But I think at this point I'm on a search for low-profile canti's. I think a couple mentioned above, most notably the grand cru zeste will hopefully work great.

Your interest in me outsourcing help made me want to figure this out myself (and with the forums help) even more! So if that was your plan, I commend you! Thanks for the help either way!

Last edited by holycalamity; 05-14-14 at 11:09 PM.
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Old 05-14-14, 11:06 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by xenologer View Post
having used these brakes I will say that the springs are rather stiff and have a very narrow operation range

modern frames have 3 spring tension holes to allow large spring calibration range changes, ( critical for the springs on this brake )
your frame has only a single spring mount option, and it is clearly far outside what the brake needs

so bend the springs
with pliers
outwards so they engage the brake arms and still have tension left
really
bend the springs

also, its hard to tell from photos but stud spacing may be too narrow

the tranverse link wire length will be critical adjustment for brake power, but that's later...
Thanks for the reply! Before reading this a light sparked and I realized I simply needed to bend the spring outwards to create the tension I needed, and it worked! You're right on, it's nice to hear from someone who's familiar with these brakes. The springs are very stiff and definitely have a narrow range of movement. As I just mentioned in my previous reply above, bending the springs and removing a few washers does allow these brakes to work, but the profile is not narrow enough for me to use with touring panniers, so I'm off to search for some lower profile canti's.
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Old 05-15-14, 07:59 AM
  #30  
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Re Modolo CX, Actually they're fairly short arm .. and will not be touching your panniers

unless a front set high mounted and back too far on the rack . or bags on the rear not quite far enough back
something the cyclist can make where the bags mount on the rack right, easy enough..

Working in shops in the 80s, I noted when the Brakes started having pad height adjustment , Cantilever on Asian MTBs
the frames, as made, there too, began to Let the boss mounting placement vary on the frames .

Mafac , Modolo and the more recent Empella Froglegs required the frame builders hitting the post mount Spec accurately..


My DIY frame I made up in the 70's. it was with the wheel in the frame and brakes (mafac) in my hands that I decided where the posts went.
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Old 05-15-14, 08:33 AM
  #31  
Wilfred Laurier
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i agree with fietsbob

my main ride right now has mafac cantis on the rear
and terrible as they are compared to modern brakes
they are the inspiration for many of the current crop of high profile brakes
and they clear my panniers just fine
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Old 05-15-14, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Re Modolo CX, Actually they're fairly short arm .. and will not be touching your panniers

unless a front set high mounted and back too far on the rack . or bags on the rear not quite far enough back
something the cyclist can make where the bags mount on the rack right, easy enough..

Working in shops in the 80s, I noted when the Brakes started having pad height adjustment , Cantilever on Asian MTBs
the frames, as made, there too, began to Let the boss mounting placement vary on the frames .

Mafac , Modolo and the more recent Empella Froglegs required the frame builders hitting the post mount Spec accurately..


My DIY frame I made up in the 70's. it was with the wheel in the frame and brakes (mafac) in my hands that I decided where the posts went.
That's very interesting, nice to get some insight about what was going on with the progression of these brakes in the 80's. Helps me understand why this has sorta been a pain in the ass. Modolo, etc. are definitely on my list of options for this build. Thanks!
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Old 05-15-14, 08:45 AM
  #33  
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You may need to take a radial measurement from the axle of the hub to where those frame posts are..
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Old 05-15-14, 08:55 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Wilfred Laurier View Post
i agree with fietsbob

my main ride right now has mafac cantis on the rear
and terrible as they are compared to modern brakes
they are the inspiration for many of the current crop of high profile brakes
and they clear my panniers just fine
Perfect, thanks!
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Old 05-16-14, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by holycalamity View Post
Perfect, thanks!
Please update us if you land on anything. I have the same frame and would like to upgrade the brakes as well. Thanks.
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Old 05-16-14, 10:27 PM
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I ran into almost exactly this same problem with one of my current projects.

My rim is 23mm wide and the canti-boss spacing on an early-80s fork was just too narrow to arrive at a proper spring tension using an Avid Shorty 6, no matter how much I tightened the adjusting bolt.

In the end, I regretfully had to ditch the Avids (which I personally quite like) in favor of Shimano CX50s, which work like a charm (albeit using the thinnest spacers).

Last edited by DIMcyclist; 05-16-14 at 10:29 PM. Reason: Grammar; punctuation
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