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Looking to permanently bond nut to axle: Which two-part epoxy?

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Looking to permanently bond nut to axle: Which two-part epoxy?

Old 06-05-14, 11:43 PM
  #1  
mastershake916
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Looking to permanently bond nut to axle: Which two-part epoxy?

I have an obscure Shimano Saint derailleur (m800) that I've building a bike around and finding the right axle for it has been a huge hassle.
It's a 10mm thru-bolt and the derailleur acts as the nut. I bought one and it was not long enough and I have not been able to find one another that I know is long enough.
However, I have a plan!
I will be able to get a standard axle with the correct threading and length, I then plan to epoxy a nut on one end of it to act as the bolt head. If I have room I will lock two nuts against each other, but I hope to find an epoxy that would do the job regardless.
I have JB-Welded before and know the drill: prep it correctly, let it set, slather it on like crazy, etc. I just want to know if anyone knows of a product that would outperform it in this application, or if anyone has done something similar in the past.

TL;DR: Need two-part epoxy to turn a nut and axle into a bolt with head. Advice?
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Old 06-05-14, 11:46 PM
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Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 from Loctite Adhesives
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Old 06-06-14, 12:29 AM
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mastershake916
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Ehhhhh, I know the reputation, and that it's actually meant for threading, however I'm going to be using the nut to actually spin the axle to tighten it.

Would it really work better than J-B?
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Old 06-06-14, 02:37 AM
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Notch axle end with Dremel and tighten with stout screwdriver?
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Old 06-06-14, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by spinbackle View Post
Notch axle end with Dremel and tighten with stout screwdriver?
Tack or spot weld an allen head in the axle? Cause getting a different dlr would be too hard?...
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Old 06-06-14, 06:35 AM
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Get two nuts, tighten them to eachother.
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Old 06-06-14, 06:48 AM
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Drill a small hole through the nut and axle while together and press fit a pin in it.
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Old 06-06-14, 08:33 AM
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it would be hard to beat the two nut idea if you have the clearance and enough threads. even if you have to file or grind the nuts to make them thinner. make one a cap nut for a finished look.
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Old 06-06-14, 09:12 AM
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OP, this would work fine, if you use it correctly. The pieces to bond together have to be tensioned, because it only activates in the absence of air. This means you would still need a jam nut against the two you want to bond, so you end up right back in the needing to leave room for a jam nut option.

Depending on length of nut, you might be able to take a M10 SHCS and use it as the jam feature. Overlap the nut off the end of the axle, thread the SHCS into the exposed end, and wedge. This would give you an allen wrench on the outside.
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Old 06-06-14, 09:24 AM
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I'm not a fan of the JB Weld idea because honestly, I think the more fluid loctite will work better have deeper penetration. I don't think you'll get enough JB Weld in there to secure it as tightly as you'd like. I would try the loctite before the JB Weld. If the loctite doesn't cut it, than I agree with a spot weld on the end being the best approach followed by a two nut approach... with any of the above, I'd still use the loctite as well. The idea of a pin, or lockwire, or whatever looks good on paper but I don't think it would look clean if you actually secured it that way; I'm not a fan of drilling through the axle unless you have a good drill press and know you can get a good straight and clean hole.
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Old 06-06-14, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by IthaDan View Post
Get two nuts...
That's a little harsh, I'd have gone with "Man up", but yeah...

Yet another solution (other than the obvious buy the part) would be to fill the threads of the axle by brazing 1/2" or so of it, allowing for the with (- 2mm) of the nut. One of my mechanics loves to weld, braze and solder, he'd be all "let me, let me"...
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Old 06-06-14, 10:20 AM
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Loctite 271

If you ever want to take it apart, you will need a torch.

Note most rear axles are M10x1 ; most M10 SCHS are M10x1.5 by default; M10x1.25 and M10x1 are also sold.

McMaster has M10x1 threaded chro-mo rod McMaster-Carr
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Old 06-06-14, 12:38 PM
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Drill and rollpin......
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Old 06-06-14, 12:49 PM
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+1 , the Loc Tite corporation makes many more compounds than the Thread-loc stuff .

ask directly : Loctite Product Advisor. Expert guidance to find the best adhesive, glue and sealing solutions. | Loctite Adhesives

Last edited by fietsbob; 06-06-14 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 06-06-14, 02:18 PM
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mastershake916
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Thanks for the replies everyone.
I think that I'm going to go for two nuts locked against each other, further secured with red threadlocker.
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Old 06-06-14, 03:30 PM
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you can also use a big hammer and a center punch, and distort the threads in the nut by making a punch dent in the Outside on opposite sides.
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Old 06-06-14, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Booger1 View Post
Drill and rollpin......
Loctite 271 is stronger.
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Old 06-06-14, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
you can also use a big hammer and a center punch, and distort the threads in the nut by making a punch dent in the Outside on opposite sides.
Loctite 271 is stronger
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Old 06-07-14, 08:22 AM
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Relativity pissing matches aside..

Ive banged on the edges of flat head bolts , in the ship yard , to keep them from un screwing ..

you distort them and the edge of the hole at the same time.. use the Big Hammer ..


shake resistant nuts are manufactured like that , made then dented with a automated punch.
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