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Pressure required on the levers

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Pressure required on the levers

Old 06-17-14, 05:40 AM
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Xcessiv
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Pressure required on the levers

Hi there,

I recently adjusted my front derailleur (Ultegra, Trek Pilot 5.0) following the steps listed in the Big Blue Book.

Everything seems fine, the shifts are smooth and no friction/noise, but unfortunately the pressure required on the levers in order to shift has tripled.

Any idea on what I did wrong?
Thanks.
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Old 06-17-14, 05:54 AM
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Glynis27
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Has the pressure required to shift tripled for shifting both up AND down? What changes did you make?
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Old 06-17-14, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Glynis27 View Post
Has the pressure required to shift tripled for shifting both up AND down? What changes did you make?
Mainly shifthing up, but when shifthing down I can also feel that the downshift is more brutal / under more tension.

I basically changed everything, every single screw, following the BBB.
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Old 06-17-14, 08:40 AM
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I would first try slightly less cable tension and/or backing out the High Limit screw 1/4 a turn. See if that brings any change.
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Old 06-17-14, 08:41 AM
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For the benefit of those who don't have a copy of the Big Blue Book, or those who don't want to cross-reference, or those who don't want to assume you followed all the directions with no variance whatsoever... What specific things did you do?

Did you do anything that might affect cable friction in the housing? Replace housing or cable, re-route cables, re-tape bars over cables?

If you have bare cable running outside your downtube, try shifting the bike while on the stand by pulling the cable away from the downtube, like pulliing back the bowstring to shoot an arrow. Does the cable pull easily? Does the derailleur shift back smoothly as you release? Pulling the cable midway like this isolated the derailleur and back half of the cable run and can help you narrow down where the problem lies.
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Old 06-17-14, 08:59 AM
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I suspect that you have the high limit in too close, and the cable too short (too much tension), so upshifting requires forcing the FD up against he stop. Back off the limit by degrees until you can overshift and dump the chain, then bring it back until you can't. That's the correct setting for the limit - the minimum inboard position that prevents overshifting.

Now, slacken the cable until the trim after shifting is such that the outer plate just clears the chain in high (smallest rear sprocket), check that is still shifts smoothly and crisply, and if it hesitates, you can shorten the cable another hair for better shifting.
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Old 06-17-14, 09:21 AM
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Good advice above, I find the procedure from Park Tool to be a superior one: Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Front Derailleur Adjustments

One caution, do not allow too much clearance for the chain while in the small chain wheel/large cog combination or you may run out of travel on the other end.

Also make sure that the shift wire is passing around the tab and clamp screw correctly; running it the long way may cause the derailleur to move too far per shift and increasing the shift effort, causing the problem described by FDinNY.
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Old 06-17-14, 10:06 AM
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many front derailleurs have a slightly non intuitive cable connection setup
and if you rout the cable under the pinch bolt wrong
it causes the exact symptoms you are describing

under the cable pinch bolt
is a washer with a tab on one side
and the cable must run over this tab
and not under it
to effectively lengthen the arm against which the cable pulls

i was looking at newer derailleurs the other day
though
and some of them may not have this cable attachment design
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Old 06-25-14, 08:43 AM
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BINGO!!! The cable was under the washer. I readjusted everything, now my bike is shifting better than ever. Thanks!
Originally Posted by Wilfred Laurier View Post
many front derailleurs have a slightly non intuitive cable connection setup
and if you rout the cable under the pinch bolt wrong
it causes the exact symptoms you are describing

under the cable pinch bolt
is a washer with a tab on one side
and the cable must run over this tab
and not under it
to effectively lengthen the arm against which the cable pulls

i was looking at newer derailleurs the other day
though
and some of them may not have this cable attachment design
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