WNG

I ran into an uncooperative front triple after converting a 2010 Specialized Sirrus Sport to a drop bar layout.
The stock set up is 8-speed Shimano 11x32t, Alivio RD, undesignated Shimano FD, a Shimano entry level triple crank, and integrated tourney style shifter/V-brake levers. The bike has mini-V brakes.

I installed the following, anticipating the OEM FD may not work with road brifters:

8-speed 2300 brifters with a triple left. (New set)
Deore XT GS RD.
Tiagra-spec 8-speed triple FD.
An older model FC-3303 Sora road triple (30x39(SG chainring)x52, I swapped the 42t middle ring) with a matching 113mm cartridge BB.
KMC 7.1mm Z-chain.
Re-installed the 11x32t Shimano HG cassette.
Jagwire cable and housing.

The RD shifts fine, but the FD refuses to shift from the granny to the middle ring. When I overshift to help it onto the ring, the cage doesn't appear centered and rubs the inner plate of the cage. The middle to outer ring shift works, but not gracefully.

I was expecting a nice smooth drivetrain given the choice of components and their near new condition. And my wrenching experience would be ranked as intermediate to expert. I was never a fan of the front brifters that indexed. This old school biker likes trim and a quiet drivetrain.

I checked the chainline and appears to be good at 45-50mm. Chain length is correct. I measured the ring teeth spacing and it's about 8.1mm.
The cable routing to the FD is correct as is the clamping point. There is no slack in the cable. The outer cage is spaced 1mm above the outer ring.

So, I'm a bit stumped and annoyed. Any insight is appreciated.

PS. The brifters DO NOT work with mini-V's. Even though one reads that they are supposed to work with road brake levers.

Andrew R Stewart 

Seems like you exceeded the Shimano mix and match fudge factor. Some combos just don't like to play nice. I agree that mini V's are a poor choice with STI levers. Andy.

Jeff Wills

OK... is your current setup 30-39-52, or is it 30-42-52? I think only the newer model front derailleurs have a inner cage plate contoured to work with the 39-tooth chainring. With the older front derailleurs, the chain will hit both the middle and the outer before making the shift.

WNG

I swapped on a 39t, and it is a double chainring, not a triple therefore it's not pinned. I will exchange a 42t and see how it performs. If that don't work, I revert to the stock FD, which one assumes shouldn't work since it's a mtb model.

dsbrantjr

Make sure that you do not leave too much clearance when you set up the FD low limit. If you put the cage too far inboard the shifter may not move it far enough to complete the shift.

bradtx

WNG, The middle chain ring's tooth count stamping should face inwards for a triple and outwards for a double. I'm not quite sure what the orientation should be with your set-up, but it's something to consider. Also, the techdocs don't list a min/max chain ring difference for the FD so the 42T may fix the problem.

The Tiagra FD is a favorite among tourers for STI usage as it's quite adaptable, but in your case it's an all road group mix with a standard size road group crank set, which is why I'm focusing on the middle chain ring.

Mini V brakes are often touted as compatible with non V brake levers, but not always. Cantilevers are good IME.

Brad

WNG

@dsbrantjr A good tip. I always make sure there isn't any excess slop for precise shifting at the FD. It's set so that it's as close without producing noise.
@Jeff Wills @bradtx
Thanks for the tips. I also suspected the 39t middle ring. I switched to a vintage 42t Suntour double ring, and the shift became possible albeit not crisp. I surmised the lack of pins and ramps is the cause. Too bad modern SIS is so fickle now. Cage profile, chain width, chainrings all must be compatible for a triple brifter to operate. Give me the trimmable old ones anyday.

BTW, since I'm using the older double rings, the engraving still faces inward instead of outward like modern triple rings.

bikemig 

You can always do like Lance and use a downtube shifter for the triple. You'll get a better shift and same some weight.

Edit: it looks like your bike doesn't have any bosses on the downtube. Still a left bar end would do the trick if the STI shifting is still giving you fits.

I'm getting ready to set up a bike with STIs and a triple. If I run into problems, I may go with a downtube shifter for the front derailleur.

Al1943

Shimano triple chainrings are sold as a matched set. The middle and big rings are ramped and pinned. It is possible to buy a 39 middle ring that is ramped and pinned, TA Specialties Alize is one. But nothing is going to shift quite as well as the original set.

Shimano triple road shifters have 4 main positions plus a soft click for trimming the smallest chainring. Shifting from the smallest ring to the middle ring requires shifting from the first position to the 3rd position. This should be done with one good shove on the brake lever. If the chain is running on the left side of the cassette it will be necessary to trim back to the 2nd main position.

MileHighMark

How long are the mini-v brake arms (center of mounting bolt to center of cable attachment)? Generally, Shimano integrated drop-bar levers work fine with brakes in the 80-85mm range.

Retro Grouch 

If it was my bike I'd try setting the cable tension so the derailleur is perfectly aligned when in the middle ring and see what that does relative to shifting to the other two chainrings.

Kimmo 

Huh. I was thinking it'd make sense for it to be crap if you were trying to run the 42t, but since IIRC 50/39/30 is totally a real thing with your FD, it should work fairly well, although without the snappiness of a pinned and gated ring.

I'm surprised you report the 42t as working a little better; that seems odd.

Sure seems like we're all missing something here...

How about some pics?

Oh hey - I just realised you're using a 52t. This might put your FD a tad higher than it wants to be; AFAIK those triple FDs all went on the 50/39/30 setup or similar. Might work well at 52/42/32.

WNG

These OEM ones from Specialized are 90mm. I noted Tektro Mini-V's are 80mm.

@Kimmo
The FD originally came from a road bike with a road triple and had a 42/52 combo.
Here are some pics....


Specializing my Specialized par WNG555, sur Flickr

Specializing my Specialized par WNG555, sur Flickr

Specializing my Specialized par WNG555, sur Flickr

Specializing my Specialized par WNG555, sur Flickr

cderalow

I know in theory it shouldn't work, but I manage to use ST-3400 Sora shifters with a FD-M431 Alivio front & RD-M410 Alivio rear.

with a FC-M431 Alivio crank... (48-38-28)

There's a bit of rub in the 48 when I go big-little (48-11) only because I haven't really adjusted the FD perfectly. In theory if I spent the extra 30 minutes I could probably get it to stay flawlessly, but I'm not in the 48 very often to justify it.

Mind you this is with a 11-34 9 speed cassette.

hayden52

I dis a similar thing on my Sirrus, but I ditched the front triple for a standard double, so I can't help you there. Regarding the brakes, I used a Travel Agent and they work great with the Ultegra 8 speed brifters I used.

Al1943

Most 8-speed and 9-speed road triple cranksets (except D-A) have 52-42-30 chainrings. Shimano Sora (FC-3303) crankset | VeloSpec - bikes and components specifications

MileHighMark

Do the levers run out of travel with the stock mini-v's? A 90mm brake arm may require that the pads be positioned very close to the rim, but they should be able to stop the bike.

WNG

As you stated, I was able to make them work, but don't like the amount of travel. I'm used to a much sooner engagement on my drop levers. And the pads are very close to the rim, making releasing the cable anchor nearly impossible.
I'll see if I can live with it.

The extra length does allow this bike to accommodate 45mm tires for monstercross duty.

dave s

Hummm.
I built up a an old Trek 930 mrn frame into a drop bar road/gravel bike. I used a Deore Rd, a Tiagra 4503 FD, a set of Tiagra triple shifters and an old Sugino AT crank set up with 48/36. I didn't use the triple, since I had enough range with the double. I also used mini'v's. There were no ramps/pins on the rings, but it shifted perfectly. The brakes were awesume with the exception that I had to de-flayte the tires to get them past the brake arms. I didn't use the triple and that seems to be your problem, but it should shift fine. The Tiagra 4503 FD is set up to shift 50/39/30 and does not shift a 52 or 53 well in my experience.

Kimmo 

Sorry, what?

The site you linked is crap, BTW. Try clicking any of the category links on this page: Shimano components | VeloSpec - bikes and components specifications

MileHighMark

One work-around for releasing the cable is to fit in-line cable adjusters, and use those to help increase cable slack.

WNG

This Sirrus Sport is going to be my 700C 'jack-of-all-trades' bike. The stock wheels will be for touring (32mm tires), I have additional sets of wheels for fast rides (23mm), and a pair for CX/gravel grinding (45mm). Last night I measured the rim of this set and it's wider by 2mm. So, that means it won't be a straight forward swap.

In-line adjusters are the solution, I will need in-line adjusters anyway with these brifters.
Thanks for the advice.

EDIT:
An updated photo, with stock wheels and tires installed, and bars taped...time to test ride.

onbike 1939

Tired of problems with front indexing I went for this option and now wished that I'd gone for it years earlier.

Sun Race/Sturmey Archer Gear Shifters 3 or 9 Speed friction/indexed DERAILLEUR | eBay

IthaDan 

I'm going to disagree the cable is correct. Most FDs I've encountered have a little nub doe the cable to bend around for added leverage and range of motion. The way the cable is coming straight up through the FD in your picture leads me to believe you've routed it incorrectly.

A quick GIS for this little nub brought up this image of a SRAM red FD. Don't lose the forest from the trees just because the image is of A SRAM part- IME, shimano FDs made in the last 30 years have the same little nub on them.

WNG

Dan,
You must have the eyes of a hawk, given my focus-challenged, craptastic phone photo.
I'm aware of the nub, and the cable is routed as expected and it's in the channel of the pivot arm. The cable just appears to be pointing vertical.

I'll try to take a high res photo of the assembly later.

BTW, nice 'herd' you have. But some of the photos aren't showing...broken links?