Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Hub Shaft Problem? (what the hub!)

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Hub Shaft Problem? (what the hub!)

Old 07-17-14, 08:17 AM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 99

Bikes: '96 Trek 800, '10 Specialized Allez (Steel), '17 Surly Steamroller

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Hub Shaft Problem? (what the hub!)

Forum!

My son bought a used bike yesterday and told me that it's great, but the front wheel is kinda rough.

So I open up the hub, the bearings are near greaseless and the cones are pitted to death, but the cups are surprisingly fine.

Here's my issue. In cleaning the inside of the hub, I notice that the edges of the hub shaft (I don't know what it's officially called, the hole in the center of the hub in which the axle sits) are sharp and slightly protruding (by maybe 1 to 1.5mm) into the area in which the bearings sit, on both sides. I'm not sure if these protrusions are actually coming into contact with the bearings, it seems to me that the bearing might actually be going around them without touching.

I just wanted to know if anyone has had any experience with what I'm describing, and if so, can the wheel be saved (filing down the protrusions?), before I waste my time going to the bike shop to buy some cones and bearings, put it all together and then find out the hub is no good.

It would be a shame to have to toss the wheel, because it was built very well and the rim still has a lot of life left in it.

As always, your input is appreciated.
Phyoomz is offline  
Old 07-17-14, 08:22 AM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,398

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 138 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5629 Post(s)
Liked 2,249 Times in 1,262 Posts
This is steel hub made by pressing the flange/bearing cup ends onto a steel tube (often called the barrel). Usually the ends don't extend into the bearing area, and if they do it MIGHT mean that a prior owner overtightened the bearings and thereby pressed the ends farther. OTOH if both sides match, it was probably made that way.

So if it looks like it was made that way, and the end of the barrel doesn't interfere, get a new axle and cones and rebuild it.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 07-17-14, 08:50 AM
  #3  
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 2,078
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Poor adjustment will ruin cones. The grease sounds like it separated while the bike sat. No lubrication will also ruin cones. There's a good chance the cones just wore out.

If you reassemble the front hub with the old components, it should be 100mm between the locknuts, or on a few old bikes it may be 90mm. It may be a small amount off due to the pitting. That should tell you if the bearing cups were somehow forced inward.
garage sale GT is offline  
Old 07-17-14, 12:18 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 99

Bikes: '96 Trek 800, '10 Specialized Allez (Steel), '17 Surly Steamroller

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by FBinNY
OTOH if both sides match, it was probably made that way.
Thanks for the response, except, the hub doesn't look like it was made that way. The protrusions are razor sharp and uneven, they appear to be caused by wear. But I'll spend the $10 to get some new cones and bearings and see what happens.
Thanks again
Phyoomz is offline  
Old 07-17-14, 02:07 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,398

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 138 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5629 Post(s)
Liked 2,249 Times in 1,262 Posts
Originally Posted by Phyoomz
Thanks for the response, except, the hub doesn't look like it was made that way. The protrusions are razor sharp and uneven, they appear to be caused by wear. But I'll spend the $10 to get some new cones and bearings and see what happens.
Thanks again
Before spending on parts that may not work, reassemble with what you have and measure the axle width over the locknits. This should 90 or 100mm or very close. If it's a few mm undersize, the ends are moving on the barrel, and IME once this starts it doesn't stop. In which the hub is dead and you'll be glad not to have wasted time and dough on it.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 07-17-14, 11:33 PM
  #6  
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 2,078
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
I've seen some steel hubs that seemingly had the rough ends of a tube protruding from the middle of the bearing cup. They went together without a problem.
garage sale GT is offline  
Old 07-18-14, 05:11 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Trakhak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 5,190
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2340 Post(s)
Liked 2,762 Times in 1,579 Posts
Don't waste your money buying replacement bearings. As one previous poster said, once the flanges of a steel three-piece hub begin moving inward, they don't stop.

Apply the money you were going to spend on bearings to the purchase of a new front wheel (of the same size---be sure to copy the dimensions listed on the tire of the old wheel to make sure the new wheel matches). Even an inexpensive new wheel should have a one-piece aluminum hub and an aluminum rim, giving improved braking performance (assuming the old rim was steel).
Trakhak is offline  
Old 07-18-14, 05:57 AM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656

Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!

Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2025 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,091 Times in 737 Posts
If the old rim is steel, don't put a minute of time or a dollar of money into rebuilding the hub. A new wheel with an aluminum rim should replace it immediately. The first time your son tries to stop in the rain, and survives the experience, you will see why this was a good idea.
HillRider is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
zanq
Classic & Vintage
8
07-21-20 12:30 PM
Troul
Bicycle Mechanics
7
06-11-18 11:09 PM
ronfinch
Bicycle Mechanics
7
02-02-18 01:11 PM
Lovegasoline
Bicycle Mechanics
15
06-09-11 06:02 AM
CliftonGK1
Bicycle Mechanics
73
01-12-10 01:33 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.