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Super grindy cartridge bearings in old Specialized (Sansin?) tandem rear hub

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Super grindy cartridge bearings in old Specialized (Sansin?) tandem rear hub

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Old 07-21-14, 11:00 PM
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Super grindy cartridge bearings in old Specialized (Sansin?) tandem rear hub

I recently acquired an old but good quality tandem (Burley Bossa Nova). I'm estimating that it's from about 1990 (due to having Suntour XC Pro, with indexed barcons, but a 6 speed freewheel... seems like 1990 is about when you'd get that mix).

The rear hub is a 48 hole Specialized tandem hub, with solid axle and freewheel (looks identical to this one: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ized-hubs.html)

Interestingly, it uses cartridge bearings... and boy are they grindy. Tightening down the nuts until there's no more play in the axle requires a fair amount of force (at least compared to cup and cone hubs that I'm used to), but once you've eliminated the play there is a lot of resistance and 'grittiness' when turning the axle.

Anyone have experience replacing these bearings? I found these, which say the are compatible with Sansin rear hubs: SANSIN REAR REAR HUB Bicycle Bearings Stainless Rubber Seal #BRK-004RS
From what I've read, Sansin made this hub for Specialized, so they might be the ones?

Also, is it normal to require so much tightening to eliminate play for cartridge bearings? Could this actually be a bent axle?
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Old 07-21-14, 11:09 PM
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The bearings are replaceable.. a good Bike shop can replace them ..
ask about an angular contact bearing .. Radial contact dont take to side loading, well .
but those roll easily and go in either side Up (you just live with a little play at the rim.)

angular contact work like a cup and cone... in a sealed bearing..

anything more detailed. I'd have to see it.

mine are still fine .. Single bike 40-36 spoke were on the 85 Expedition..QR axle..


actually the other thread is for a tandem drum Arai Drag brake , then the RH thread gets tighter
when you put the brake on.

I built a 48 hole Phil rear...[ I think the Hubshell was really from an old Phil front disc hub]
single threaded stainless sleeve with aluminum flanges .. PW Co pressed in a 126 wide rear axle assembly ..
[ those brakes also tightened on a threaded connection..]

Used a Specialized 40 hole in front ..

Last edited by fietsbob; 07-21-14 at 11:25 PM.
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Old 07-22-14, 10:26 AM
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How to adjust depends on the bearing. Some "sealed" bearings are angular contact and work similar to a typical bike cup/cone system. However, many are deep groove radial bearings, and need care when adjusting.

These are designed for only locational thrust loads such as one might see in electric motor applications, and side preloading as one might (must) on an angular bearing can be problematic. Excess thrust has the balls running at the edge of the groove, often riding right on the edge, and causing chipping and degradation. With radial bearings, adjust the bearing to minimize axial play, but do not preload.

OTOH, these are easily(?) pressed out and replaced, so you can start fresh, and with proper adjustment should be good for the next few decades.
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Old 07-22-14, 11:14 AM
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Thanks, so it seems like I'm looking for angular contact sealed bearings with ID 15mm x OD 28mm x Width 7mm Dimensions (got those from the BocaBearings site, but will try to confirm).

These are relatively cheap: https://www.jensonusa.com/Abi-Sealed-Cartridge-Bearing

Can't tell if they are angular contact, but the reviews mention hub use...

EDIT: So it seems that those are probably not angular contact. However, these ones are: https://www.enduroforkseals.com/id399.html

Last edited by robo; 07-22-14 at 11:27 AM.
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Old 07-22-14, 11:45 AM
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Once you know the size of the cartridge ID/OD & thickness . you reference the bearing number ..

(You see Jenson did break down the bearing numbers on That list )

with the bearing number you can seek out a bearing supply company , certainly have on in your city .

to buy the bearings there . they would further break it down to contact type .

I got Enduro 6001 radial contact bearings for my Bullseye hub's servicing , (QBP)
they put more balls in the race than the original ones .

if careful and not side loading them when you screw down on the threaded axle, and secure the locknuts, that will work ..



there is a service tool that is semi circular halves , on a tweezer like piece of steel ..

It springs out behind the bearing inner race, to allow it to be pressed out from the opposite side..
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